Triumph Sports Cars

OK, I'll give it a shot.

For her. Iris flowers if you can find them. An apple I-mac.

For you. Ignition switch for the TR6. 20 meg Internet.

I'll take this off to another thread as to not mess up you progress Calvin.

Ken asked for a color version of his early Christmas gift.( green car, red top)

(a few more things added)

I like the "I" ideas, I'll add them to my new forum. Do you think I'll get much help?

Sounds good Don. Calvin needs lots of space.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/15/2008 09:45AM by TR6-6SPD.

That doesn't look bad at all, surprisingly. But then, it is getting closer to christmas....

Jim

Wow! , This post has turned into a “Sticky” Thanks Curtis!

Was wondering how to use the original dash brace and use the stick shift hole at the same time.Took off all the black covering plus the old foam backing which was falling apart. With the dash brace mounted in the body , the dash put in to mock up where the now T56 stick shift resides, is about 4 1/2 “ back from original hole. So cut the dash brace at the radio face and took off the shifter hole piece. Proceeded with welding it back on with aluminum strips which added 4 ½“ back so that the T56 shifter is center in the hole. The dash brace will be covered back up to look some-what close to original.

Before taking black covering off + old foam.


Extending hole 4 1/2" back to line up with T56 stick shift.








Used the new Miller 165 diverter tig AC/DC welder with staight argon gas. This welder works great for aluminum up to 3/16ths thick. It has the power control on the tig handle.

Next, need to work on making a transmission cover out of aluminum + move back the E-brake mount to clear stick shift area.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/07/2008 11:40AM by 74ls1tr6.

Is that a kit, or something you made up?

Hi Alan,

I made the original dash brace longer by 41/2". Used 2" wide, 4 1/2" long, .125 thick aluminum pieces. Tig welded all the pieces in to extend it out so T56 stick shift would come up through the hole. After welding all up, used a angle grinder to clean up.

The extention bracket thats on the transmission (4" forward) is from hotrodlane.cc for the T56.

Looking good Calvin. And yes, with over 7000 views,your thread should be a sticky. Alot of people on this planet look forward to news from you. It is, of course, a good exchange of ideas and sugestions.
May I add, to you Calvin, and anyone else considering the T56 transmission, don't forget to allow for the extra width of the "reverse lockout solenoid" on this unit. I had to go back into my custom transmission tunnel and refabricate it to give me more clearance for the seat. The seat would have fit without but it wouldn't have been able to slide forward.

I'm glad you chimed in about that reverse lockout solenoid Ken.

My Ls1 neighbor across the street here was telling me just to take it out for more room. Well that being said by him, I said "no it would be just my luck I would stuff it in reverse and blow the whole drive train out". I have read several places that people will do this in their swaps. Well what happens when you let someone else drive your car, not knowing about it being removed, and disaster ends your nice day. So I vote to leave it in, even if it is in the way some.

This photo shows the Aluminum 12.5 lbs Fidanza flywheel installed after cleaning all the clutch dust off the block.(Notice the removable steel surface on the flywheel that can be changed out). The pilot shaft bearing outer race that is pressed in the end of the crankshaft, is on the wood (Left side low in photo).I had to use a air body saw to cut a slot in, then was easier to pull out.


Cleaned up the bell housing from clutch dust and installed a new slave cylinder/ throwout bearing. GM T56 transmissions started having slave cylinders inside the bell housing I believe in 1998, in F-bodied cars. A quick diconnect for hydraulic fluid on the red cap and the bleeder bolt is above on top. I will make an access hole in my transmisson cover to bleed the clutch. That way 1 person can bleed the clutch.





Spec stage 2 + all installed ready to mate up the T56.

Engine installed again to check for clearances with accessories steering shaft and passenger side header.






Alternator is good to go.


Ac compressor needs more clearance for the cover and ears on the side. I was not happy anyway with this inner fender work so it was OK with me to re-do.

First 2 photos show how close the steering shaft is to the coil pack and footwell box.

This photo is looking up shaft towards the firewall.


This photo is taken looking down on shaft


Stll need to relieve a little more of the body here for the double u-joint.


This part of the shaft and heim support is good to go. The heim support and the tower crossmember all fits fine.

Compressor needs more room.




Passenger header needs more room.


So trying to get all clearance issues handled one last time. Then body goes back on rotisserie for adjustments again.


Radiator bottom brackets finished along with frame extention. I have a smaller condensor than the Camaro one that will fit better. Just need to make brackets for it. The 45 degree angle black line on the body mount I already cut off for radiator clearance.

74ls1tr6 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
...
> The extention bracket thats on the transmission
> (4" forward) is from hotrodlane.cc for the T56.

Hi Calvin.

It was the extension bracket I was interested in. I'm likely to be needing something similar is why...
Thanks, Alan

btw: Those inner wings look GREAT. Really nice work on them.

Actually I'm curious about spacing on the solenoid as well. You reckon you could send me a couple of hi-res pics of the cutout you made.

TIA, Alan

Alan,

OK, any particular angle you want? Do you want a photo of the dash support along with showing the solenoid? I can take a photo from directly above that area to show how far it does stick out.
Just let me know and I’ll shoot and send.
I will probably add some more aluminum to the end of the support, to cover all the shifting mechanics of the shifting yoke.

I still have your email address.

Straight above would be great.
Thx, Alan

This is Kens photo of his T56 transmission placement. Going by the 2 stress bends on the floor boards in reference to the reverse lockout solenoid position, Kens and my T56 placement is very close to the same placement.





This photo shows the same placement for reference for this swap. Sent this photo to Alan, and the ones below also.



Another veiw.



This photo shows just how far the solenoid does stick out.



Note* The T56 placement where Ken and I have, put's the T56 shifter 8 1/2 " back from the stock position, and give +/- 1/4" or so.

This photo shows the firewall bracket that was made out of aluminum for the air conditioning evaporator mount. Used 2 original firewall mounting bolt holes on the outside bolts(bent aluminum plate), and the one in the center was drilled and taped for mounting evaporator. The five holes under the plate will be filled in. They will not be used.

You can also see the red factory primer used here along the body seams. Used a putty knife to remove the old tar substance from the factory that sealed up the body seams. Used sprits solvent cleaner with rag and wipe down all the seams to get the rest of the tar sealer off. Will use modern seam sealer and re- seal all body seams.




This aluminum bracket will be the front mount for the evaporator. Used anlge aluminum, drilled hole and bolted to the under dash(original heater mounting hole on driver side), drilled and taped for evaporator mount. The large hole will be blocked off for the original vent hole with a plate and self tapping screws(will seal off well, no leaking allowed here).



This photo shows passenger side inner fender where the hood rod bracket was (bracket holds up engine compartment hood). Used sawsall to cut off old bracket and smoothed out for new one to be welded on. Somewhere in an ealier posting a photo shows this bracket was ripped upward, was rusting from a front end hit from someone that had this car before me.



New hood bracket sitting on inner fender. The factory brazed this bracket on. Also it looks like the force of the impact ran something into the brace with the hole in it (where the yellow paint is missing and showing rust, about 4" to the right of the black bracket in photo), on the inner vertical panel.

Another veiw of hood latch placement before welding.




Next 3 photos, it's welded on and cleaned up with small cutting wheel using a Dremel tool.
Need to drill small hole for screw that holds the rubber back block for the long rod stay to ride accross when closing the hood.






Can bend this thin metal by hand to look more square, in the end results I did.

A 1/4" NPT threaded aluminum bung that I'm dreading to install in the radiator. This bung is for the LS1 steam vent relief hose. It needs to be tig welded in the side tank under the overflow barbed fitting. I'm a little nervous but jumped right into tha task that needed to be done.



Positioned where it should go and traced a line around the bung. used my wet/dry vac extention and clamped it close to the bung. When the hole is being drilled out, the vac will be on to suck most of the shavings to prevent going into the radiator.







Drilled the hole with my Dremel tool and different bits to achieve a 750 thousands diameter hole. Used a wire brush in the dremel tool to clean aluminum area and bung to tig weld. Stuffed some fuel line into the wet/dry vac extention, then proceeded to vac out inside all the shavings that did end up in the radiator(not much went in).