Triumph Sports Cars

Hey everyone new to triumphs and V8's. I have posted here a couple times and I am back again. I have a 1969 TR6 that used to have a 302 befor the transmission went. It sat for many many years and now it's mine. There is some body rust as well as some frame rust. I am planning to put a 347 in it with 400+ HP and probably 380+ torque (call me crazy if you wish). It already has a ford 9" under it but the frame has some rust spots on it already (I don't know how bad the whole thing is all I have seen is the engine compartment. I was to do this thing right the first time and make it last. I plan for it to be a weekend nice weather car as well as an occasional 1/4 mile car. I need advice on what I should look into doing for suspension/frame work to make it the best possible. I have been looking at ratco frames and I am leaning that way but I have not decided 100% yet. All advice is welcom please help me put a list together of stuff I need to be looking into doing. I will probably have to have shops do the most of it though. I will attach a couple pictures later thank you in advance.

Dustin,

Welcome

1) if your unit has been modified for the V8 motor mounts/ cross member and rear mods for the 9", I would spend time inspecting the frame to see if it's beyond fixing. (even the cost of blasting and cleaning for a good inspection) The TR frames are not true box frames and where designed to flex. (I read somewhere) Plus perfect rust homes due to this design.(my own experience)

2) you'll need to weigh the expensive for a shop to take a new frame and modify it , as to fixing the old frame which has already been modified. The Ratco frames are about $2800 to $3200+. and will need modifications. Unless your current frame is trash through out, $2800 should cover a ton of work. (blast, clean, box in, and reinforce the front and rear for twist) You and the shop will have confidence that it will fit because it fits NOW. With the Ratco or new frame, a good shop will want to check fit all mods, Time is money.

3) Weld in a roll bar, hard/multi point to the frame as this will add to the stiffness of the frame and will help with frame twist.

4) The TR6 front is a good design, your not adding that much weight to the front, so heavy duty springs, shocks, poly bushings, etc. You might want to look at a modified or beefed up cross tower support.

5) You should replace ALL of the brake system. It is a system that is 30+ years old, no matter how good it looks and go with all new lines, (no rubber lines)fittings, master, cyl, etc. ( get rid of all the odd fittings and different flares and standardize for service later) Toyota vented rotors/ calipers (4 piston calipers from 1988- April 1989 Toyota 4-runner-4WD, vented rotors from 1986- 1988 Toyota Cresida- sedan only) I would take the narrowed Ford 9" and change over to disc brakes. ( I hate working o drums) Rear disc do not improve performance much, but are easy to work on.

6) I'm not sure, but check with another BV8 vendor (Fast Cars)about a custom frame for your ride. (compare cost to current frame fix/ Ratco/ custom.)
[www.britishv8.org]

7) Have fun with this project, take ownership in some of the work, take on this huge project in small DO-ABLE tasks. You will be amazed at what YOU CAN DO. Plus you will learn so much and build a network of great friends. Are you in a local Club? (for support) Locate BV8 members near you! (for support) These cars nuts are great resources and some have turned into business nuts. It's all about the journey!

Have a great journey and share that with us all.

Thanks for the reply. What all would need to be modified on the Ratco frame to be able to fit the 302? I do not know of anyone in my area with a TR6 I wish I did cause I would love to see/drive one with a 302 in it considering I have never driven mine or even seen if with the 302 in it. I do have a roll bar already and it's HUGE probably 3-4" pipe. I already talked to a shop her about fixing a little rust problem and doing a custom 4 link and I was suprised at how reasonable it was.

Dustin,

The Ratco frame would need the motor mount location changed. I used motor mounts for a Ford Bronco V8 swap and cut them down as they were to long. ( the bronco frame is wider than the TR)

I used 2" channel and moved the location back about 1 1/2" back from the suspension mount, but engine placement is a personal choice. I wanted a better weight balance.



You can see the mount position better in the second pic. Sorry for the quality as I had to got back in my archives.

Also, you'll need to decide about the cross member. Notch it, move it or replace it as the Ford 302 uses a double hump oil pan and front oil pickup. I replace mine with a removable cross member, so I could service the lower end with out having to pull the motor.

You will need to go with block huggers on the exhaust, and engine location is critical with the frame clearance of those headers and steering location.

I'll try and dig up those pics!

You will also need to modify the rear for the narrowed ford 9"

Hey thank you for the responce. I am new to all of this and slowly learning. I already planned that I would need to do something for motor mounts. Also I was thinking about possibly making a new oil pan to fit over the stock cross member other wise I would make it fit. I already have some custom block huggers for the exhaust. I have a shop out here I was going have do my motor mounts,suspension,some body work, and paint. He does good work and is really good priced. I was looking at the Ratco Frame to avoid having to go through the old one and reinforcing it/fixing rust spots. Any pics you have would be great. Also any advice would also be great.