Triumph Sports Cars

anybody have any detailed photos of your motor mount setups for the GM 350 in a TR6? Like to see how you have them installed.

If you have a CAD drawing of your mounts, or something similar that you've done, I'd love to see them as well

Taking the 1UZFE motor out next week, looking to streamline the install of the 350.

[www.jegs.com]{creative}&sendroikwd=GM+Motor+Mount&OVRAW=GM%20350%20Motor%20mounts&OVKEY=gm%20motor%20mount&OVMTC=advanced&OVADID=20193308021&OVKWID=186704208021

You might be able to find something at jegs to work. Take something that looks like it will work and modify to work.

With my Ls1 I used frame mounted motor mounts that were welded to the frame behind the suspension mount on the frame rail. This is where most of the mounts have been done. Some have mounted from the front of the block because the older GM 350 didn't have bolt holes in the side of the block, but think you are using a 350 out of a van. So you should have some bolt holes on the block for most motor mounts.

Maybe some of the others will chime in with their ideas!

I used the standard rubber type chevy motor mounts for my LT1 in the TR6. I didn't go cheap when slapping the iron in there. The motor mount itself sort of encapsulates the rear lower control arm mounting point which I've read can be a weak point on these cars. The"secondary crossmember" was thought to tie the two motor mounts together. The oil pan ends up pretty well level with the bottom of the frame. Sorry, no CAD drawings for this installation.

right side, outside view


right side ,inside view


secondary crossmember tying the two motor mounts together

I-am-so-far-behind-on-this-project...

but the good news is that I'm cleaning out some room in the garage - addition by subtraction, and a help to the wallet as well. The Buick 455 is being picked up tomorrow morning, sold it waaaay too cheap but I'm not going to use it and the buyer seems real happy to have it - paying it fwd. Sold some Buick 350 stuff a few weeks back, other odd stuff leaving the garage as well. More room in the garage = more better.

Spent some time this morning looking into motor mounts - ran across these that I thought might help fast track me vs trying to fab and weld and install my own cobbled up mounts:






Currently the ""Boxed Frame, 2nd style" frame adapters (AS-0305) in the 1st image are my fallback position, going to look hard at the 6" drop engine cross member on the 3rd image (AS-0506) with the weld on brackets mated to the "cushion set" biscuit mount (SS-0011) on the top of 3rd image which would attach to the CS-1119 motor mounts on top of 2nd image. My thought is that a welded x-member style mounting setup will provide some needed frame cross bracing as an added benefit and make it easier/faster to mount the motor - thoughts?

Not sure about which drop on trans x-member on the 3rd image might be viable, still need to get the Lexus motor out (see way-behind note above) and get the L05/700r4 in place, might be able to reuse some of the existing trans mounting.

Appreciate any constructive - or non constructive if you feel strongly - input you might have. And a swift kick in the butt to get me going again would be great as well...

Mike if you go to the photo galley and check out Dan Masters 5.0 Ford into a TR6 he has photos of his engine mount as he fabricated. They are very straight forward and reasonably simple and look as if they will do the job very well.
Cliff

Cliff - ford engine mounts are positioned further towards the back of the block, would put you right over some empty frame space, the chevy 350's are positioned right above the rear lower control arm box. I confirmed Kens photos as being right in the ballpark, just concerned about losing front end alignment access



Ken - are those box steel sections 1.5x1.5" on the vertical rise, and then 2x2" box on the horizontal? if you get a chance can you measure from the top of the frame to the bottom of the engine mount bolt that connects tube to the mount? my rough measurements show about 4.5 inches of rise required, just looking to confirm.

is there a photo somewhere showing a front shot of the the harmonic balancer and how it sits in relation to the steering rack? thinking I can get about a pulley on with about 1/2" to spare

have to do some grinding on the 700r4 transmission case to remove the interference points so that I can get the motor back further, not much room for a pulley between the balancer and the steering rack. may cut the tunnel out and rework a new firewall. the current one is pretty old and I've already cut into it pretty well for other engine attempts.

a good effort this weekend, old engine out, 350 and trans in and out 5-6 times, wiring harness out and marked up awaiting a surgical effort to get it straightened out on the test stand. btw, made a nice little wheeled engine run stand out of 2x4's so that I can get all the wiring shaken out prior to final install

If I can just get these mounts made up and installed I'll start feeling *much* better about things - right now just trying to keep my head down and grind forward

MikeD,
Sorry it took so long to get back to you. I went on an extended road trip into the States with the TR6. Vermont, Cape Cod, D.C. and two days at the Street Rod Nationals, Louisville Kt. Next year, they allow 1980 and older vehicles. Great party!

OK, back to your question. The measurement from the top of the frame to the center of the motor mount bolt is 5 5/16".


The placement of the harmonic balancer puts the front edge of it equable from the back of the steering rack and the front edge of the frame cross member, that being about 2 1/4".


Hope this helps.

Ken

Helps mucho, thanks for that - and congrats on your trip, sounds like a fun one.

that is a lot of room between balancer and the steering rack - looks like my 700r4 bellhousing/case is going to require some "massaging" to get anywhere close to those numbers

picked up a few feet of 1.5 and 2" tubing @.098 wall thickness at the local shop, hoping to get the tubing cut and tacked to the frame so that I can test mount the motor this week

Mike,
When I chose the placement of my motor mounts, I let the exhaust headers that I had already purchased, dictate the fore/aft position of the motor. You might want to consider this. The attached photo shows just how close the header is to the upper control arm hardware. I even trimmed them to boot!



Ken

actually the mounts on the new chassis shown in the new newsletter look like a great idea as well, thinking that I'll try to mock something similar up with cardboard and make an angled top that I can mount the chevy mount on and see if it works.

great looking work they've done with that chassis.

These mounts were very basic but worked well. Hope it helps. 350 crate motor. Car can be seen in photo section of British V8 mag. Ken Morris