Healey Sports Cars

mods & upgrades for Healey (Nash, Austin, or Jensen) cars, including engine swaps

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mtnrek@yahoo.com
Chris Buckaloo
Jacksonville, fl
(67 posts)

Registered:
02/06/2009 12:33PM

Main British Car:
1962 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 Ford 289 Smallblock V8

authors avatar
Battery problems with my '52 3000
Posted by: mtnrek@yahoo.com
Date: February 13, 2009 04:30PM

I just recently got this beaut from my father. it only took him 16 yrs to let me have it.
Of course I understand why, I was way to young to respect such a great car.
It's a 1952 3000 with a Ford 289, and I can't seem to keep a charge on the battery.
I'm really close to pulling all the wiring and starting from scratch.

Anyone have a better idea?

Sincerely,
Frustrated


MGBV8
Carl Floyd
Kingsport, TN
(3715 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 11:32PM

Main British Car:
79 MGB, Buick 215

authors avatar
Re: Battery problems with my '52 3000
Posted by: MGBV8
Date: February 13, 2009 06:08PM

1962, maybe? Any pics?


Moderator
Curtis Jacobson
Portland Oregon
(4411 posts)

Registered:
10/12/2007 02:16AM

Main British Car:
71 MGBGT, Buick 215

authors avatar
Re: Battery problems with my '52 3000
Posted by: Moderator
Date: February 13, 2009 06:35PM

Hi Chris, welcome to BritishV8's forum!

You may very well end up replacing all the wiring - but I'd recommend diagnosing the problem before taking that step. Since the car runs, you're in a good position to assess the condition of the battery and the alternator. Do you already have a multimeter that will let you measure voltage, current (amps), and/or test for continuity in a circuit? If you do have one, that will certainly help. In the meantime...

From your post (above) it sounds like you suspect a "parasitic load." In other words, you apparently suspect that some circuit is live when the car is parked and that it's draining your battery. (On some newer cars, a trunk light that doesn't turn "off" when it's supposed to is an example. A radio with built-in clock and memory will also, for example, drain a battery if connected long enough.) That sort of problem is certainly possible, but are you sure you have a healthy battery?

If you disconnect the battery when you park overnight, are you then able to start the car when you come back to it? It's a lot easier and cheaper to replace a battery than to make/install a new wiring harness! While you're at it, you can make sure you have clean, tight battery connections. When you do disconnect the battery, if the ignition switch and all the lamp circuits are off, there shouldn't be a spark if/when you disconnect/reconnect the battery's positive terminal. The other thing that's good to verify is that charging system is really capable of getting a healthy battery back to full charge.


mtnrek@yahoo.com
Chris Buckaloo
Jacksonville, fl
(67 posts)

Registered:
02/06/2009 12:33PM

Main British Car:
1962 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 Ford 289 Smallblock V8

authors avatar
Re: Battery problems with my '52 3000
Posted by: mtnrek@yahoo.com
Date: February 13, 2009 06:40PM

your right trigger happy with the buttons. it is a 62 not a 52...duh?


mtnrek@yahoo.com
Chris Buckaloo
Jacksonville, fl
(67 posts)

Registered:
02/06/2009 12:33PM

Main British Car:
1962 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 Ford 289 Smallblock V8

authors avatar
Re: Battery problems with my '52 3000
Posted by: mtnrek@yahoo.com
Date: February 13, 2009 06:57PM

You may be right about the live circuit. it does have a newer radio that was recently installed and it does keep memory. That could be the problem.
When I first got it home, it would hold the charge when the battery was disconnected. both pos and neg.
The first thing we checked was the dead man switch. It was bad, we removed it, and now when I'm not in the car the battery is disconnected completely.

I left the car with it connected for about an hour and the battery went completely cold...no juice at all.

I have a tender for the battery and i does well to keep it up. I just don't want to worry about it if I go somewhere for more than an hour.

Not sure what i'm looking for, guess i'm just seein if anyone else has had this problem


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5803 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: Battery problems with my '52 3000
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: February 14, 2009 12:20PM

First check your trunk light if there is one to make sure it's turning off. Next likely suspect is the alternator (or generator). Try disconnecting that and see if the battery dies. You can also wire an LED between the battery and one cable and if there is a load it will light. That will help you track it down. The radio keep alive drains minimal current and may or may not light the LED.

Jim


tycorace
mark thompson

(45 posts)

Registered:
05/31/2008 02:00AM

Main British Car:


Re: Battery problems with my '52 3000
Posted by: tycorace
Date: March 07, 2009 03:04PM

have you cked all your ground conections are clean and tight and always use sodered fitings on all your main connecion's do not use the crimp fittings for any thing' either sodder or some type that does't hsave to be crimpt.
mark



mtnrek@yahoo.com
Chris Buckaloo
Jacksonville, fl
(67 posts)

Registered:
02/06/2009 12:33PM

Main British Car:
1962 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 Ford 289 Smallblock V8

authors avatar
Re: Battery problems with my '52 3000
Posted by: mtnrek@yahoo.com
Date: August 30, 2009 11:41AM

well i suck at keeping up with this stuff.

i have done lots now to figure out what the electrical problem is.

I've found that (of course) while its off the bat puts out 12.12v.
when it's runnin it still only puts out 12.12v.

I'm worried now the alternator is nor charging the system.

I've replaced the solenoid, the coil, distributor cap, and button.

Had hell for a while to get it started, wasn't getting any fire.
now there's a resistor (from what I can tell) goes from the solenoid to the coil.
turns out the resistor went bad. now here's the point to my story...

I've by passed the resistor... And she runs WAY better.

Any input... pro's...con's... if its just plain bad tell me.


Keep in mind, I'm not an idiot. I can do most kinds of mechanical work, but when it comes to electrical, maybe I am.


t.lay
Tom Lay
Grayslake, IL
(93 posts)

Registered:
05/13/2008 09:53PM

Main British Car:
72 mg b gt

Re: Battery problems with my '52 3000
Posted by: t.lay
Date: November 29, 2009 07:37PM

Running a ford ignition without a ballast will probably lead to a melted coil. It's a mess if they pop. A new ballast is cheap. Stepping voltage down to about 5 or less should save your coil. A quick way to check for a draw on your battery- pull the neg cable off the battery. With the neg disconnected run a test light between the neg battery terminal and the neg cable end. If you get a light, there's a draw. Start pulling fuses until the light goes out to find the problem circuit. If the fuses don't show a circuit to have a problem, about the only thing left is the ignition circuit.


mtnrek@yahoo.com
Chris Buckaloo
Jacksonville, fl
(67 posts)

Registered:
02/06/2009 12:33PM

Main British Car:
1962 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 Ford 289 Smallblock V8

authors avatar
Re: Battery problems with my '52 3000
Posted by: mtnrek@yahoo.com
Date: February 01, 2010 02:31PM

Turns out the ground from the battery to chassis had a really bad connection. (it caught fire, Story for another time)

replaced the ground cable to a 4-0 strap, an viola! it hold's a charge. go figure right.


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