Engine and Transmission Tech

Jim-I totally agree with all the things you said. Just seems crazy to spend $1600 to $2000 for roller rockers and roller lifters. Unless you are going to build the ultimate high RPM anything goes block & cylinder head rover I can see it but for 90% of the guys here hydralic lifters and better headers are more than sufficient!

Perhaps now would be a good time for a Buick/Rover,reader survey? Say: budget,inches,hp.,rpm.,use,fuel,inj/carb,smog check? Anybody? roverman.

OK. I'm almost done so I could post my cost list doc. I need maybe a week to mount the coils and pick up for the EDIS. Then I box it up and it's off to the dyno. I'll have specific numbers on the HP/RPM then.

I've got two engines, a 215 Olds and a Rover 4.0. I bought gaskets and rings for the 215 and I'm looking at a new, flat-tappet cam and lifters. This engine is a quick-and-dirty effort to get the MGB going with V8 power.

Because I suspect that I'll have trouble getting the 215 to pass emissions, I picked up a EFI 4.0. It will be a stock rebuild on the short block with the possible exception of a roller cam. The stock heads will get some DIY porting and maybe bigger intake valves. The intake will be modified to clear a MGB hood. The goal is a smooth, quiet running engine with good economy and easy driving. I'm expecting the power to be more than adequate, something like an honest 190-200 hp and 240 ft. lb torque at the flywheel. Operating speeds 1000-4500 rpm.

I have a 86 5.0 Mustang with a roller cam and SEFI, and it has massive torque. The LSA on the cam is something like 114. That engine is a short rod setup - stroke of 3.0", rod length of 5.09" IIRC.

The Rover 4.0 has a stroke of 2.8" and a rod length of 5.66", I think. This should allow a lower LSA, like 112.

Nix-Im curious with the length of your 4-1 headers at when you have the power drop. You need to post the results!

Paul, sounds like a "short" rod for a 4.0L. Not a 3.9? I believe 4.0 uses approx, 6.111". Did you retrofit to get rod angle? What int/exh. valve ratio? Redline? Emissions to year of car or year of engine? Good Luck, roverman.

Art, I'm working with a stock 96 4.0 engine. I didn't realize the 4.0 had longer rods. That's a bonus.

I'm thinking that I'll use a 1.625" intake and the stock 1.325" exhaust valve.

Redline of 5250, but I seldom buzz my Mustang above 4500, and that will be the effective redline.

In Idaho, I think I'll be tested against the year of the vehicle (1979), not the engine. I'll be using a HC cat only for the time being, so I can simplify the plumbing of the AIR pump.

I got an adapter plate from D&D yesterday for my Mustang WC T5. (BTW, the adapter plate cost $200) Eventually, I think I'll change the rear axle ratio into the lower end of the 3.00 range. I know that many people suggest using a 3.25, but my Mustang does great with a ratio like 2.79. The speed limit on the interstates through eastern Idaho and into Utah are 75, so it helps to have the (numerically) low axle ratios. So, good torque at low RPMs is key.

Ok. With that in mind I'm gonna need a little extra time to wait for my headers to be coated. I'm not sure how long that will take but I can't run them before I have them coated. I'll focus on finishing the headers before the pick up, valve cover plates, and crank trigger. Here's some pix of the headers on the engine. They are 35" long. The collectors are 16" long. 1 5/8" primaries into 2 1/2" collectors.

Dodge 318-360 rockers from proform.

Thats a good point, Jim. I've actually been surprised how similar the engineering styles were between Buick and Mopar back in the day. Deep skirt blocks, long rod ratios, shaft rockers. Not so much the small ports and bores though, LOL. Look at the angle on the valve cover flange! Ha ha.

Finally! My "ProComp" rockers came in. No suprises so-far, just a lot of extra, un-needed parts,(shafts,mount plates and hardware). I will Rockwell hardness a rocker and a 907 cam while at it. Material for Rover shafts is verified and ordered.May build a cheepie, "Spintron" for durability testing. Side-note, I was force-fed Mopars as a kid. Not complaining, but "if" they had built a production, all aluminum V8, I probably would have went in that direction. Since then I guess I kinda got fixated on the merits of the lite-stuff, you know like canvas or wicker for seats-Nic. ? roverman.

Sweet news, Art. Looking forward to hearing how things progress. LOL! Thanks for the nod.

Jim and all, those "Proform" Mopar rockers look like plain alum. bore on shaft? Disected "Procomp", int/exh. rockers. int. has needles, exh. has bushing-LOL! Push-rod adjuster screw is designed for "through the push rod to rocker shaft", but no hole to feed pivot shaft. only drip lube. I'm thinkin, if Procomp was a drag racing class...it'd be for Chinese cars? Best we can hope for is Richard M. Nixon was buried in a Chinese made casket? Sort-of rollin a riv.......roverman.

Spoke with "ProComp" today, they could not exlain why needle intake and bushed exh. rockers. Their sending and "inspected" set with .100" off-set on intakes. I suspect these rockers will bleed-off more oil than oem.,hi-volume pump? I'll get the hardness test in approx. a week. roverman.

Thanks for the update. The bushing/bearing combo is strange. Are you saying there is no hole to the roller by "pivot shaft"? There aren't any on my Harland Sharpe rockers either.

Something I've been thinking about is I mounted the rocker shafts with the oil holes lined up with the pushrod cup. Like they would be if they were being oiled through the head. I guess that means I'll be filling up the rocker shafts with oil that will just sit in there. LOL. I guess it could be a good thing.

Do you think they will bleed off because of the needle bearings?

Nic and all, I think needle rockers will bleed-off more than oem./bushed(not worn-out). On the "ProComp"'s, the oil hole in push rod cup goes all the way through to squirt/drillble oil on valve covers, top of rockers and springs. Nic just think of your "dead-oil" in hollow rocker shaft as "sludge traps", also, we want to see your motor, in video-on the Dyno ! I'll start on the solid shafts on thurs. Looks like I'll be making ,"straddle mount" stands for the ends,(insurance). Good Luck, roverman.

Maybe I am.Under S&G dept., "ProComp" isn't sending anymore rockers because remaining ones are ALL bushed! Soo, like Jim suggested, looks like I'll be buyin needle bearings. Of -course Procomp doesn't have needle replacements-or care. It's enough to make one "leary" of some imported products. roverman.

Hi Guys,

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We have two types of products for the 3500-3900 Rover V8s
1) Modular Shaft Type 1.6 adjustable YT 6000 which are the bushed arms to suit std shafts $970
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