Engine and Transmission Tech

Hi, Anyone work on these ? Looks like "special" socket, similar to Torx for main body screws ? Spur gears instead of gerotor ? So you spin the pump just fast enough to make adequate pressure ? Allows low tension rings,(negative crankase pressure)? I'm ordering repair manual. Suggestions for good value on separator tank ? Thanks, roverman.

I'm using a Senecker style tank (available from any decent race shop). It's compact (almost square with about a 20 degree slant on the top) and fits nicely in the MG trunk up against the bulkhead. I ran my oil lines up the rocker (through the bulkhead) and put the breather in the engine compartment. It was hard to locate a round tank anywhere so the Senecker solved the problem nicely. The skinny is that the square tanks tend to cavitate the oil under hard race use but they've been used in most forms of stock car and modified racing for years so I think the cavitation thing is mostly theory. In any case, if you choose a trunk mount be prepared for some expense running your oil lines to the front (12An line ain't cheap). Also make sure you run a wire core on your feed (pressure) line so it doesn't collapse under negative pressure and kill your oil pressure.

There are some shots on my build blog (79 Dry Sump) of the lines, breather, and oil pump mounted on the motor. I can;t offer you any trunk shots right as I have it apart trying to finish it off.

Thanks David. "Weaver" suggested to put separator tank as close as practicle to pump, and higher. "Canton" tank is well regarded by them and cheap. Set-up will likely land in a Buick V6, unlimited, short course buggy, t-verse/mid. roverman.

""Weaver" suggested to put separator tank as close as practicle to pump, and higher."

Correct on that. My set up is in a B so the pump is down low on the passenger side using a modified Jones Racing adapter plate. Breather (or separator) has been inserted in a hole in the firewall shelf, also on the passenger side (it extends into the footbox). So distance is basically the length of the Ford block (plus a little extra for the mandrel drive).

Canton makes some nice tanks but I couldn't come up with a configuration that would hold enough capacity and still fit in the limited engine bay space. Doesn't sound like that will be much of an issue with your set up. Ah, the luxury of starting with a "clean" slate. Much less reverse engineering.