Engine and Transmission Tech

Here is a guy that put LS beehive springs 1.7 Ford (351 Cleveland) roller rockers with homemade steel bridge and 2.00/1.5 valves in 4.9 heads. He also uses Northstar pistons(.040 over stock and 10.5 compression).Pics of heads:






Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/16/2010 08:33AM by mgb260.

Allante 4.5 intake:

Heads on this motor show inner head bolts with studs on top for rocker bridge:

Crossdrilled crank and front view for same motor:

Inside of block:

Motor for Fiero with Alante fuel injection:




Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/21/2010 06:50PM by mgb260.

Found out a few things taking the motor apart. To pull the water pump you have to pull the pulley as there are 3 bolts hidden under it. You need a 3 jaw 4" gear puller to pull the damper. Also found a small piece of rocker arm guide laying in head. also found a wire clip from lifter on oil pump screen. i checked all the parts and lifter and rocker guide must have been replaced. So I would highly recommend the c clips in the lifters. I plan on LS springs in mine also. Other than that all looks good. It looks like a Ford engineer designed it with the allen oil pump drive, small rod bolts,rocker arms and small ports. The cylinder liners and crank look like new. All bearings looked good. I could tell someone worked on the top end as all gaskets were new looking. (probably when they fixed the lifter and rocker arm guide). People have had trouble with the rocker arm bolts pulling out, with higher spring pressure. Now I know why, the small 8MM self tapping screws in the aluminum bridge. My fix will be 10MM/3/8" studs like the 60 degree V6 uses(Crane) for adjustable rockers. They will go through the bridge and will have a locknut below.Also the stock rockers should have the slot lengthend for higher lift to prevent binding. That is probably a contributing factor. I personally like the stock type 351 Cleveland(1.73 ratio stock) with longer slot. You can get a Crane roller trunion kit for it. After I pressure wash the block I'll take more measurements and pictures. You won't get the power out of this motor like a small block Ford or Chev or LS. It will fall between them and the V6, at about the same weight as the V6. Plus, cheap in wrecking yards. A very good upgrade for 4 and V6 stock motors.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/24/2010 03:39PM by mgb260.

Pictures of my freshly pressure washed block:

picture of lifter cover with "DO NOT REMOVE"

A couple more:




Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 02/24/2010 06:22PM by mgb260.

A lot of sharp machined surfaces. One more pic:




Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 02/24/2010 07:07PM by mgb260.

Jim, That is quite a slot behind the upper main shells ! Block looks, diecast through-out. Story I heard was GM bought "Evenrude", for their diecasting expertise, first used in the Quad Four ? Got LS head gasket ? Thanks for sharing. " Mike", see how this works ? roverman.

Actually it was Mercury Marine that was brought in to help because of porosity problems with the early 4.1. I recommend wearing light gloves as I have lots of little scrapes and cuts just handeling the block. Very sharp wherever it was machined. I can pick it up with one hand.

I am going to use an electric Chevy water pump with adapters similar to the Chrysler Hemi set up.

Those electric water pumps flow what, maybe 50 GPH max? Is that enough for a street driven car?

JB

Jims' and clan. Should be gal per min. "Mezier", in line .rated 20 gpm while hi-flow rated at 55 gpm. As long as your not boiling/steaming, somewhere in the system, I don't see the need for over-kill on flow. I have seen cars/trucks with big hoses and tubes in rad, boil, because thermostat had been removed. Coolant moved too fast through rad.= not enough thermal differential, between in/out. Slower the flow through rad ,more heat exchanged. Anyone use "Evan's Waterless" ? roverman.

Those water pumps are just starting to catch on with street rods and street/strip cars. I read of one guy that has over 100,000 miles on his.

More pics,the oil pan has a nice baffle I am going to use in the earlier (4.1)rear sump pan, or modify the 2 pans I've got for rear sump.All the internal parts are on one bench,still have to be cleaned and examined. Both manifolds, 85 4.1 single plane with TBI and 4.9 bare intake.

Jim, Looks like "cast" rods ? Engine weights on webb shows 4.9L at 360 lbs. with flex plate and alt. MGB bound ?Good Luck, roverman.

I plan on putting the bare block in the MGB bay next week and figuring mounts. That's what this site is all about,American engines in British cars or British engines in American cars(Nic's Rover/Vega).Hey, I just remembered I had a Vega with a Buick V6. Oh, that doesn't count. American in American! LOL!