Engine and Transmission Tech

I am painting my engine bay currently getting ready to install my engine and transmission, Engine has been rebuilt, but I am unsure of transmission. I am really short on money and can't afford to take it to a transmission shop, I have downloaded a manual for the transmission but it looks pretty involved to tear apart and to inspect. I was told that the transmission was fine when I bought it, but I dont ever take anybody word until I can see for myself when it come to car parts. I am a novice mechanic, but I can figure most things out. I know it is worth my time right now to pull the transmission apart and check it out before i install it. Is there anyway to check the transmission without tearing it apart and determine how it functions or if repairs are needed. I am sure I already know the answer but I am hoping I am missing something! Any thoughts or comments are appreciated! Thanks in advance

Nick, First of all, try shifting it through all gears. Wiggle the input shaft side to side and in and out. Shouldn't be much play. Pull off the top cover and look inside. NWC should have 70W oil(hard to find nowdays). I used to mix 1 qt ATF to 2 qt 90W. Now Synchromesh oil is recommended. If you do decide to rebuild , Hanlon has a DVD. Ebay has inexpensive rebuild kits and the internet has downloadable shop manuals. This site and MgExperience site has lots of info. H.A.M.B. also. Biggest issue is to make sure you have the right one. Ford went to a longer input shaft in 94. So you would need the 93 and older bellhousing with the older NWC tranny. Hope this helps.

Jim,

Thanks for your response! I have gone through all of the gears and they seem pretty solid not much play, I had plannned on just removing the top cover and doing an inspection but from what I can tell you can't remove it without seperating the the two units which I wanted to avoid. That is my problem. Wanted to thank you on the MGB Big Brake Idea! I have incorporated it into my build, had to modify things slightly but I think it is going to work great. Haven't done much searching on the MGE site for T-5's I might give that a try. thanks again!

Nick, Glad to help! As far as I know you have to pull the tail shaft off first. This thread explains it better than I can:
[www.ffcars.com]

Jim,

Thanks again! That is what I thought I would have to due. Just trying to avoid it if possible but doesnt seem likely!. I have visited the factory 5 web site a few time should have known to search there as well, thanks again. I do not know if you have looked at my build thread but, I tried to have a machine shop make my caliper brackets but they failed completely not to mention somehow the brake rotors I ordered where to big for the brake calipers do not know how that happened, ended up mocking my own brake caliper brackets and installing larger brake calipers. Not to hijack this thread, i will PM u and tell you what solution I came up with and see if it will work? Seems like you know your brake mismatches fairly well! Thanks again! Looks like i will be pulling the tail housing, which I wanted to avoid but seems like I have to!

You might have tried the earlier 4runner calipers(thinner 22mm rotors) T100(the ones you want) use 1" thick rotors.

I ordered calipers from a T-100 1993 fronts, however when I order my rotors for a dodge intrepid 11.7, they were to wide for the calipers? Any thought to were I ordered wrong?

Nick, The red calipers on your build site look like the right ones. Did you measure the thickness of the rotor? should be the same as my 11.1. Unless the auto parts store received a different one. Did you try a C clamp to push the pistons back in the caliper? I'm about 1500 miles from mine so can't look at it.

Jim,
The calipers are pushed all the way back even with half used pads they still wouldnt fit, plus the machine shop that made the brackets are about a 1/2 " too high, I ended up making my own and using some superlight willod calipers that had a bigger rotor opening and making some shims for the distance, will send some pictures soon. Thanks again for all your help will be pulling my transmission apart tonight and post some pictures

You cannot see the wear on a synchronizer without pulling it apart. The only real way to see if everything is good is to pull it apart.

As far as not being able to afford having someone else do it, the time is the cheap part. Usually about $250 or less. It's the rebuild kit and other items that may be required. If you feel bold- do it yourself.

Also, if you had considered the NWC not as good, don't let that bother you. The NWC- probably best way to put this is the PRE-world-class (PWC) is a very good unit. I have run many of both and they are all very good.

-BMC.