Engine and Transmission Tech

Don't see this discussed anywhere of late.
Seems to have been abandoned for LS and Japanese engines. (Boo Hiss!)
Used to be a common topic but I never heard of anyone actually getting a completed engine up and running in a car.

I always wanted to do the BOP/Rover to Jensen Healy/Lotus 907 quad-cam head conversion but the heads were too hard to find.
Over the years I've learned a bit about how to do this properly and now have the equipment to make the head adapters.
the heads are cheaper now so maybe worth thinking about again.

I have one Richard, that is probably 85% finished in my opinion.
Got to the crankshaft or camshaft modification point and kinda stalled out.
I will complete it at some point, just have to get focused again..... "Oh look at the kitty".
Was building it for one of the Esprits but looks like it's slated for an Elite now so the cam drive will need a rethink.
Be aware that this is a really wide engine. 31" from valve cover to valve cover.
It takes up more room than a big block chevy.
But it says "LOTUS" on all four valve covers. So that's worth it just in itself.
The bore spacing on the heads is a perfect match. It's like it was meant to be.
But that's it. Nothing else is even remotely close.
Oil feeds, head bolts and coolant passages tend to hang out in free air.
The block is an antique with many weaknesses and architectural compromises.
The heads are a 40 year old design that can be out performed by a stock base model Honda Civic.
The whole mess is going to be a financial extravagance beyond comprehension.
And every time that you step on it your going to wonder if you just pulled the pin.
And it's going to wipe out the entire neighborhood.
So building this engine will have to be a work of passion, not common sense.
And that's the reason that none are completed yet.
But still, it seems like something that needs to be done.
It is possible, it just needs some passion, cash and time. "Cashion".
So lets get after it.
I'll race ya!
Cheers
Fred

A couple of things I have learned, which you almost certainly already know.

Oldsmobile Turbo blocks are stronger than the standard BOP block.
Blocks can be TIG-welded up to improve strength.
Block girdles are your friend.
A Rover block will be stronger than any BOP block.
Be sure to sleeve through the head adapters.

V6 Buick front wheel drive pieces can be used to shorten the water pump and accessories at the front of the engine if it helps.

Cam drive will almost certainly be by toothed belt.

Who cares about practicality, it's nearly a Repco-Brabham!

I now have my own CNC equipment to make such a project more practical, just need to get a pair of heads and better at CAD.

Would like to see pics and a more detailed description of your project.

Richard,
I don't really care about the older blocks as they aren't a consideration for any type of power output.
So the cross bolted block becomes the only obvious choice.
A girdle or a brace is a worthy addition as long as it's doweled to the mains. Otherwise it's a wasted addition.
Sleeving through the block adapter is the obvious solution. But what about thermal displacement of the two disparate mediums?
How do you seal that over time?
Of course it will be driven by a toothed belt but from the front or the rear? And does the water pump really need to be where it is?
Cheers
Fred

Yes, I removed that brag line that was here.
No need for that sort of thing amongst friends.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/20/2014 12:28PM by DiDueColpi.

"Theoretical Optimist", does grand illusion mean where stuck in the matrix ? FWIW, my grand illusion was to weld, "mitered" L shaped head adapters onto 4.0-4.6L Rover block. Standard deck height is adequate. I would weld rigid aluminum tubing to block/adapters, for cooland and oil passages,for fewer potential leaks. I considered (2) Vega timing belts for cams/accessory driving. Big items are (4) custom cams of correct firing sequences,(welded modular lobes works). "Richard" at West Coast Racing Heads, is quite skilled at breathing air flow out of these heads, bigger valves, etc. Of course, if you go flat plane crank, 907 cams will work. I don't suggest you do this.Lotus V8 cams, might be a long shot? I like the 3.9" flanged Ford tractor sleeve/cheap, or the less wild 3.7+ Rover sleeve will work. "Zeus" bare 907/908 castings may still be available , and easier to adapt ? I would be "more" interested, in a "W16" , as in, Move Over Buggatti ! Perhaps a dream team, of three, should pm ? Onward, roverman.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/18/2014 01:05PM by roverman.

Quote:

And does the water pump really need to be where it is?

I can't help this thread along much, but I know relocating the water pump should be the least of your worries. I've just uploaded a How-It-Was-Done article that shows how Howard Fitzcharles used a BMW 7-series water pump on his Olds 215 powered MGB GT V8. He shifted it to the side to free up space for a cam-driven air starter. Probably an easier option is to use an electric water pump. That's evidently the current fashion for MGB GT V8 racecars running in England. (Two or three articles showing that solution are coming soon.)