Engine and Transmission Tech

Might work. No guarantee though, as it relies on the edge of the pipe nipple for sealing. But you could try it. And then if it doesn't work you could buy the parts that are going to work reliably if you want. Or you could look for another way to get it to work. If it doesn't seal properly all it's going to do is leak engine oil. Probably.

After as much custom work as I've done, I try to stay as far as I can away from things that "might work". The more of those you have, the more things you have that don't work. Simple numbers. But maybe I've become jaded.

Jim

I must be jaded as well Jim.
I got real tired of fixing "fixed stuff" years ago.
These days if you aren't going to take my advice you don't get a second chance to ask.

Cheers
Fred

"That should work", by someone that has never tried it.

Matt, what chassis are you putting your Rover engine into? Can you make an angled Buick V6 filter base work? No hoses or fittings to leak. Inexpensive. (One source.)

With very modest hammering to form a shallow clearance pocket in the MGB frame, filters are now easy to change.




Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/06/2016 02:19AM by Moderator.

Here's another shot of what Curtis is alluding to:

I think what Graham posted is D&D's swivel mount. That's another option, but it's NOT what I used. I simply bought a later model Buick V6 oil pump from a Buick dealership's parts counter. (Mine doesn't swivel.). I included a link above....

Apologies for the misrepresentation, Curtis - the good news is that it now gives Keith a couple more alternatives.

The problem you see, is that for the difference in cost between doing it in a proven way that gives the best possible chance of complete reliability and serviceability, and a way that is more difficult to do, more difficult to service, and doesn't have the proven reliability is... maybe $40 max? (Possibly less than half that.) And you cut those corners on a vital system. If it fails it can take the engine with it. Well, that's your choice. But something I'd avoid. The better choice is definitely the AN/JIC adapters, with a good thread sealant (loctite) when they go in the pipe threads.

Now those NPT pipe swivels do work. I have used them. But To get them to seal the nut may have to be cranked down to where the flange it pulls against fails. Or the threads fail. (Tapered threads against straight threads in the nut.) Then a little vibration and it can start leaking. Given the choice I would go with the standard JIC fittings. They are reliable.

Jim

Thanks for the input guys. I picked up a stalled 78 MGB with a Rover 3.5 that I'm trying to finish up while my 4.6 project languishes in the planning stage. I was trying to avoid the remote filter if at all possible but D&D said they aren't making the swivel adaptor any more and I was advised by one of the MGB conversion experts that the Buick metric base that I have wont work and neither will the front facing Rover filter base.
When I realized I might have to use a remote filter I looked at many of the kits from Transdapt and others and realized that they all seem to use fittings that you install yourself like the one that failed in the original post. Thats what made me think that a solution using professionally manufactured components would be more reliable (and yes less expensive) than the solution that requires you to cut and install the hose end fittings yourself. My intention is not to cheap out on a critical engine component but in the 25 years I have worked on MG's I have never worked with AN fittings and very few NPT/hydraulic fittings so I welcome any input about which method would be more secure. I have never heard of JIC fittings before so it looks like I still have some more reading to do.

AN and JIC are basically the same.

Jim

Hey Matt,
Summit sells the 90' adapter that Curtis used. It should be able to clear most obstacles for you.
If not, the AN fittings and hoses are nothing to be afraid of.
They are actually pretty easy to use and are essentially goof proof.
Youtube is full of how to's on assembly.
The best piece of advice that I can give you is to lube the fitting generously before you assemble it to the hose.
It makes the assembly a breeze.
And make sure to flush the newly made hose before you use it. Even if you bought it ready made.
Sealing washers are available to seal fitting to fitting. But I've never had to use them. Every failure that I've seen was due to debris on the sealing surfaces.
Route your hoses carefully. Especially if they are steel braided. The braiding will damage just about anything that it touches and if two hoses rub each other they will destroy themselves remarkably fast.
Lastly give your hoses room to move. If restricted too tightly (hydraulic hoses in particular because they are so stiff) the lack of flex will cause fracturing and failure of your fittings.
Once you get the hang of AN style stuff you're going to want to use it a lot.
And why not! It looks nice, works good and lasts long.
And as my little grand daughter says " I did it all by myself"

Live like you mean it.
Fred