Engine and Transmission Tech

Perfect. Thanks Scott.

Based on that, I should move 3 inches forwards of the rear end of the rib to avoid the tube end bracket.

Jim

Update: There has been a failure of the fuel pump which I've traced back to most probably air entering the system. The fuel pump has an internal component that looks like a wire wound choke, possibly put there for electrical noise suppression or to reduce brush arcing and this component was obviously overloaded and burned up, which indicates either an overload or an air pocket inside the pump. Considering no fuel drained out when I disconnected the lines the latter is indicated.

All components are acceptable back as far as the pickup mat, except that some swelling of the internal hose's jacket was observed. Internally it was unobstructed. The hose position was as installed so there was no indication of siphon issues. The tank had about 9 gallons of fuel when the lines were disconnected, about 3 gallons at failure.

It is possible, since the pump was installed near vertical with the inlet on top that air was in the pump and was never removed, however the lack of any fuel in the feed line would indicate other issues.

One possibility is that the membrane of the pickup was damaged upon installation. Since it had to be stuffed through the sender hole and it is a relatively tight fit this seem the most probable cause.

I have removed the Holley tank mat and installed a #8-AN bottom drain. But since the tank has no baffles I'm working on a low mounted gravity fed canister type filter to feed the pump which I will try to mount horizontally. My current thinking is that a horizontally mounted spin-on canister type filter can use a top bleed with a light check valve to return air to the tank and provide an uninterrupted supply. Fitting it in properly is the challenge.

Jim

I've been very happy with my Tanks Inc. in-tank fuel pump. Is your injection a return style?

Yes it is.
Eventually I plan to build a tank and some sort of in-tank pump will be a part of that effort I'm sure. But for now this will do. It does look a bit odd. I mounted the filter behind and below the inner fender skirt and there's a 1/2" line that loops around to the pump which is horizontal and just below the bottom of the tank. With the car on the ground you can see the filter, the line and the pump.

But, the supply side is gravity fed and there is no need for a lift pump. I also installed a bleed line on the filter back to the top of the tank and put a ball-check in that line. That will let the air or vapor out and help keep the filter full.

Less than perfect, but an effective stop-gap solution until I can get the new tank made. Fuel pressure is steady and I can get back to tuning the engine.

Which pump did you use Jim? The PA-4 or the PA-6? I watched their video and it looks like a good system. Probably makes sense to use that.

Jim

Not particularly fuel tank pick up related, but has there been much experience with fuel line (stainless braid covered) degradation with return
type fuel injection installations? I may have experienced my problem due to the original tank being cleaned out by E10 fuel, but then again, maybe my fuel lines are affected? I have in the neighborhood of 1000 miles on my project, and ran into a loss of power issue. Investigation (and screaming from the pump)
led me to a clogged 40 micron after pump filter. The clog was a dark gray to black jelly-like. Articles I have read refer to oxidation of the oxygenated fuel
by the action of the fuel circulation in a return system. I have returned to straight gasoline, but that is becoming unavailable in some locations.
Dennis

I have the PA-4, the PA-6 wasn't available when I bought mine. I asked them if I needed to upgrade to the higher capacity pump and they said that the -4 would be plenty for what I have. If I ever put a 383 in it I may do the upgrade but that won't happen unless the pistons go south in the current engine.

I originally had used AN hoses in the fuel system but I switched over to SAE 30R9 fuel injection specific hose to avoid the deterioration issue.

Lots of ethanol-free gas in Corn Country. ;)

[www.pure-gas.org]

I went to metal lines. No degradation there. The only issue is movement of the engine which has to be accommodated some way. Teflon lined hoses are a safe solution. Putting loops in the line also works.

Jim

Carl is correct, so far there are plain gas sellers here in corn cob country. I want to travel to Minnesota and Michigan, states that don't appear to have a regulation regarding posting of ethanol content. I recall when this blend hit the market in the late 70's or so, and lots of trouble then. Maybe I'm overreacting-nah, couldn't be! I have steel (had aluminum for ease of bending, read article on E10 attacking aluminum, and tore it out) fuel lines except for sections just off the fuel tank to the T-shirt area, and again from the chassis rail just under the firewall to the fuel rail and the same for the return. Well, just something to chat about, now on to
driving when the temp goes down some. I will investigate the teflon, but the fittings are different I think. I sure would hate to replace all those pretty
AN fittings!
Dennis

Teflon hose should use AN fittings. Same as JIC.

Jim

It has been a couple of years since you did this Jim, are you still using the Hydramat? If so, are you happy? Would you do anything different if you had to do it again?

My post of July, '17 stated that I had removed the hydramat, I think I stated the reasons there.

Overall I was not that impressed with it, it really seems more like a gimmick when considering street use. Off road or racing may be different. I actually had better results by just positioning the tank pickup as a drain in the lowest point of the tank. I don't consider it to be worth the expense and certainly not worth the the trouble of stuffing it through the OEM sender hole without risking a puncture.

Jim