mgb260 Jim Nichols Sequim,WA (2461 posts) Registered: 02/29/2008 08:29PM Main British Car: 1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8 |
Re: ac ace with oldsmobile 215
Kim, The Olds and it's Buick cousin are good motors. Being small displacement you are limited in power. 200-250 HP is fun though. I like the 450cfm Quick Fuel over the Edelbrock.
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mgb260 Jim Nichols Sequim,WA (2461 posts) Registered: 02/29/2008 08:29PM Main British Car: 1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8 |
Re: ac ace with oldsmobile 215
Kim, S= 2 barrel head 8.25 compression. SG= 4 barrel head 10.25 compression.
[www.britishv8.org] Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/03/2018 11:15AM by mgb260. |
Dan Jones Dan Jones St. Louis, Missouri (280 posts) Registered: 07/21/2008 03:32PM Main British Car: 1980 Triumph TR8 3.5L Rover V8 |
Re: ac ace with oldsmobile 215
> there is a casted number on the cylinder heads - CFD 581829
Heads ending with 829 were nominally 43 ccs and Olds 215s using those heads were rated at a 10.25:1 compression ratio with flat top pistons. Note that the actual compression ratio is usually a bit lower than the rating which assumes a stack up of production tolerances. Egge makes flat top replacement pistons for the Oldsmobile 215, specifically part number L2153. > do you have an idea of what output i can expect without too much work Ted Schumacher (TSI Imported Automotive) dyno tested a Rover 3.5L. With 10.5:1 compression, unmodified cylinder heads, TR8 tri-Y long tube headers, Isky 264 hydraulic flat tappet camshaft (264/264 degrees advertised duration, 0.480"/0.480", 108 LSA), Edelbrock Performer intake manifold, a Holley 390 carb and 30 degrees total timing, it made: RPM Torque HP 4000 232 177 4500 230 197 5000 222 212 5500 215 226 5700 217 235 5900 207 232 Ted said MGBV8 style block hugger headers gave up a fair bit of torque and HP but I don't have the numbers. Similar builds with lower compression and milder cam timing typically make around 200 HP. If you want more power, porting the heads (or using 1964 only Buick 300 aluminum heads) and/or stroking the engine with a Buick 300 crankshaft can make more power. Dan Jones |
Re: ac ace with oldsmobile 215
Kim, wow!, what a cool combination. How does it perform?
AC Ace has aluminum bodywork, right? I think there's something very cool about an aluminum engine in an aluminum bodied car. I'm sure you have to work within a budget and you're wondering what makes the most sense. I hope that it makes more sense to fix the leaking heads. I vote for keeping the Olds engine. It's a similar concept to the first 'Shelby Cobra' but with a better twist - an even lighter engine. It's too bad Caroll Shelby didn't do this exact same combination. There are smaller Holley carbs, but I'd agree that the Carter/Edelbrock 500 is a better choice and is less expensive. You can easily sell the Holley 600 to help pay for the fix. Also, think about converting the ignition to the HEI system. I'd say you can get an honest 180-200 hp from a well-tuned 215. You might look for some Buick 300 exhaust manifolds. I have the same Olds engine with the 4bbl heads. Olds engines came original from the factory with beehive springs. The valve stem/valve guides are tapered, so if your machinist tells you the guides are wonky, gently inform him that is how they are designed. One of my all-time favorite machinists was surprised by both the beehive springs and the tapered guides. If you rebuild it and replace the pistons, it's important that you zero-deck the pistons. If you have the means to do it, I would consider swapping in a crankshaft from a Rover 4.6. Obviously, you would have to have a machinist turn the mains of the crank to fit the block, and mill the rear of the block to fit the rear main seal. It gives you the chance to use a one-piece rear main seal, and it will increase the displacement to something like 247 cubic inches, about 4.0 liters. Finding pistons would be the challenge for the stroker kit; you'll need something with a dish, and, again, you'll want to zero-deck the quench areas. If you live in an area where the T-5 five-speed transmission is available, that might be worth your while. If you already have something like a T-10, then I wouldn't be in a hurry to change that. Awesome car. Paul |
roverman Art Gertz Winchester, CA. (3188 posts) Registered: 04/24/2009 11:02AM Main British Car: 74' Jensen Healy, 79 Huff. GT 1, 74 MGB Lotus 907,2L |
Re: ac ace with oldsmobile 215
Kim, OR= you could just cut to the chase and install a 4.6L RV8. It does everything better than the 215. Higher flowing cylinder heads, 1.1 litres more displacement, 1 pc. rear seal, cross bolted main caps and a better oil pump. Then you can consider what vintage/exotic induction, to suite this rare combination. Cross ram with four Webber DCOE's or Del Orttos, would look very proper. Good Luck, art.
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BlownMGB-V8 Jim Blackwood 9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042 (6468 posts) Registered: 10/23/2007 12:59PM Main British Car: 1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS |
Re: ac ace with oldsmobile 215
Kim, based on what you've said and shown in your photos you have a great starting point.
Just the lightened flywheel and the adjustable pushrods are evidence that something well above the ordinary is going on here and the head casting numbers confirm it. Be sure to inspect your pistons and rods carefully to see if they are OEM or possibly forged as that would be consistent with the other details. The lightened flywheel and solids scream RPM. What you have there is an engine that should have been capable of going over 7000 if the pistons would take it. As to the cam, it might be a great one already, I hope you kept the lifters with their respective cam lobes so you could consider reusing it. Many here have used the Comp Cams line, their solids pretty much begin where the hydraulics leave off. There used to be a 268H grind but it hasn't been available in decades, it was the top of the hydraulic lineup. I ran one of those in a Buick 215 with long tube headers, 10-1/4 compression and both a 600 and a 650 Holley carb and it was a screamer. Dan's posting of 235hp is spot on my estimate at the time of 240hp out of that motor. Don't let anybody tell you that your 600 Holley is too big, on the top end that's really going to let this engine breathe if your headers are good enough. Now admittedly idle and economy could have been a bit better, but it was bearable. Anyway, with forged pistons those solids will easily let you go over 7 grand. You might want to start thinking about upgrading the rods though. SBC rods can be made to work without too much trouble and nascar take-outs on ebay are plentiful and cheap. With the car you've got, my inclination would be to get a set of those with a suitable matching set of forged pistons and rebuild it with the existing cam. If head work is needed, consider installing larger valves and seats. That is going to be a fun little engine. Jim (formatting buggered by some weird problem I can't solve. But at least I did finally get all the text in.) Edited 9 time(s). Last edit at 01/04/2018 02:46PM by BlownMGB-V8. |
mgb260 Jim Nichols Sequim,WA (2461 posts) Registered: 02/29/2008 08:29PM Main British Car: 1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8 |
Re: ac ace with oldsmobile 215
Kim, Pretty hot cam. Look at last thread for specs:
[forum.britishv8.org] You would need to put the lifters back in the same holes they came out of because the lifters develop a wear pattern with the matching cam lobes. If mixed up, your best bet is have the cam Tuftrided, Nitrited or Parkerized and use new lifters. I like the solids with the little hole in the bottom to lube the cam lobes. Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/05/2018 04:26AM by mgb260. |
BlownMGB-V8 Jim Blackwood 9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042 (6468 posts) Registered: 10/23/2007 12:59PM Main British Car: 1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS |
Re: ac ace with oldsmobile 215
Looks like cast pistons and rods. Too bad about the lifters and cam, once you lose the pairing of the lifters and lobes you might as well throw them out if the engine has been run at all. Better to buy new parts than have to tear it all back down to replace them, a rounded lobe is no fun. New lifters won't save the cam and you wouldn't want to use those lifters with a different cam either. I've known of people getting by with it but those were mild cams with soft valve springs. With that cam your springs are likely to be pretty stiff and your chances of it working are not good. Shouldn't be a problem reusing the pushrods.
Definitely use studs when you reassemble. TAPerformance should be able to help there. Do all the oiling mods (at a bare minimum enlarge the suction side, do a search for "oiling mods") and hold your bearing clearances tight on reassembly. Shoot for 0.0010 to 0.0015" on the main and rod bearings, and have your machine shop check your cam bearing clearances. 0.002" would be a good number here. If it's too open it can be corrected. Loss control is the key to superior oil pressure. BTW, what do your cylinder bores look like? I see you are at 0.040" over on your pistons already. You can go 60 over if you have to but better if you can avoid it of course. Couple of quick questions here: Was it running when you got it? How did it perform? Why did the engine need to come apart? Jim |
Dan Jones Dan Jones St. Louis, Missouri (280 posts) Registered: 07/21/2008 03:32PM Main British Car: 1980 Triumph TR8 3.5L Rover V8 |
Re: ac ace with oldsmobile 215
> i enclose some more photos
Very cool car. > sorry - forgot to ask - should i go for studs - instead of the headbolts ? Studs on the heads are good. Some also recommend studs on the main caps but ARP says you have to align hone the mains when you do that. > Looks like cast pistons and rods. The rods appear to be the stock Buick/Olds 215 which are forged steel (SAE 1141). > I see you are at 0.040" over on your pistons already. You can go 60 over if you have to Egge lists the L2153 Olds 215 flat top piston in oversizes to 0.060". The 3 digits in front of the +0.040 may be the piston part number. It looks like 839 or maybe 339 but neither are familiar to me. On the side opposite where it is marked by the +0.040 oversize, there are some markings. What do they say? You might check another piston to see if the markings are clearer. Also look under the piston near the pin boss to see if there are any markings. The pistons look to have a shallow dish and single valve relief. If you intend to re-use them, you should measure the dish and valve relief volumes. That way we can calculate an accurate compression ratio. The dish will lower your compression and that Crane F238 cam has a lot of overlap and really needs 11:1 compression. Also, Crane recommends a 3400 to 3800 cruise RPM for that so it really won't much in the way of low end response. Do they heads show any signs of port work. It appears they still have the stock diameter valves. Without port work to allow the engine to breathe at higher RPM, a big duration cam like that would be wasted. > and i think hydraulics will be better - or ? is the solid lifters original? Hydraulic flat tappet was original. Which is better depends upon the RPM range you intend to operate in. Note you can use the adjustable pushrods with hydraulic lifters as well to set the pre-load. You can re-use them as long as the range of adjustability is correct. Even if it's correct now, it could change if the new cam has a different base circle or the block or heads get milled. The previous owner of my TR8 installed adjustable pushrods but the range of length was incorrect and the cam wore prematurely. I've also had to install shims under the rocker stands to get the rocker geometry correct (on an engine with block and heads milled). > when i check for isky cams at summit racing i find only 262/262 - is the 264/264 a special? It's a custom that Ted at TSI stocks. Woody carries the Erson line, including some customs and hydraulic rollers and TA Performance has there own line of cams, including hydraulic rollers. > There used to be a 268H grind but it hasn't been available in decades. A Competition Cams 26H would be easy to replicate and improve on with today's lobes. The 268H specs were: 268/268 degrees seat duration 218/218 degrees @ 0.050" 0.456"/0.456" lift 110 degrees LSA The Isky 264 that Ted used is: 264/264 degrees seat duration 214/214 degrees @ 0.050" 0.480"/0.480" lift 108 degrees LSA An Erson cam in that range would be the RV15 288/288 degrees seat duration 214/214 degrees @ 0.050" 0.458"/0.458" lift 111 degrees LSA > if i can get near to the spec you mention of the rover 3,5 i would be happy That should not be a problem. What sort of exhaust manifolds or headers do you have? What RPM range do you wish to operate in? When the rest of the rebuild has firmed up, I can help you with a custom solid or hydraulic grind using modern lobes. > Just the lightened flywheel and the adjustable pushrods are evidence Someone spent a bunch of time boring holes into that flywheel. That will make a noticeable difference in lower gears. The Triumph TR8 and Rover SD1 came with front covers that used an oil pump with taller gears than the Buick/Olds 215. The pre-SD1 Rover 3.5L engines had the same shorter oil pump as the 215s and spacer plate kits are available in England that allow you to use the deeper TR8/post-SD1 oil pump gears in your current front cover. That plus the bypass plate and externally adjustable regulator (and Jim's suggestions on clearances) are good things to do. Don't use the U.S sourced taller oil pump gear and spacer sets as they are too tall. Dan Jones |
BlownMGB-V8 Jim Blackwood 9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042 (6468 posts) Registered: 10/23/2007 12:59PM Main British Car: 1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS |
Re: ac ace with oldsmobile 215
The 215 had forged rods? Guess I'd forgotten that detail. It's bigger brothers used cast, well at least one of them did for sure, I have a couple broken ones that say so. Didn't bend well. They were 300 or 340 rods, I was using them on the tongue of a wagon. Welded up just fine though with the mig. Probably was 340. Anyway the width of the parting line on the side of the beam should tell the tale.
Be sure to use the double groove front cam bearing also. Dan's right about the main studs, that could be an issue and the bolts should be fine there but since you had a head gasket failure already studs there would be a great idea. If you plan to wind it up much main studs would be good too. Jim |
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Re: ac ace with oldsmobile 215
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mgb260 Jim Nichols Sequim,WA (2461 posts) Registered: 02/29/2008 08:29PM Main British Car: 1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8 |
Re: ac ace with oldsmobile 215
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Re: ac ace with oldsmobile 215
Hi there again
sorry it has been quiet from me for a long period - been ill + lots of other things to do meanwhile we have got the block and heads back from shop - it has been welded where it had some corrosion and 4 new sleeves put in - new piston rings - and the valve seats has been redone - pressure tested - so now it looks all fine my builder has convinced me to put it back together as it was original - with these parts we have - everything has been marked up so we can put it back as it was the only thing we are not sure of is the timing setting with this crane cam F-238 - i have googled - but only find the standard timing saying 5dgree - is that right - pls can you help? kim |
BlownMGB-V8 Jim Blackwood 9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042 (6468 posts) Registered: 10/23/2007 12:59PM Main British Car: 1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS |
Re: ac ace with oldsmobile 215
Plenty of timing sets available including reduced centerline for after align boring of the mains. Sets are also available with extra keyed slots for changing the indexing of the cam. TA Performance is the best single source but by no means the only one. However if you call them they usually either have or can get what you need.
Jim |