Engine and Transmission Tech

Presume it had a remote filter previously?
They do somewhat drop the pressure.
Although not that much.

Seems that the brand of filter can also influence oil pressure, if you changed that at the same time?
[www.dsmtuners.com]
Or perhaps this is folklore.

Ivor

Previously I had the filter right off the timing cover, I had to undo a motor mount and tip the engine to remover filter, so while I was changing the timing cover I went to a remote filter

I removed the fittings, pressure relief and filter bypass, from the remote filter adapter. The bypass did not have a spring like the stock oil filter adapter but the pressure relief appeared to be the same as stock. I stretched the spring and now I have zero oil pressure. I think I am going to have to remove the adapter and give it a better look. Engine is not making any noise like you would expect from zero oil pressure.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/31/2019 11:50PM by Young olds.

Ok, so earlier today I started the car so my dad could hear it, I had 30psi. I took both fittings out of the filter adapter and stretched the spring for pressure bypass, 0psi after that. I took the adapter off and saw that I had two gaskets between the timing cover/pump housing and filter adapter. Removed one, which looked quite a bit thinner then the one I left but it was ripped, still 0psi. Last thing I tried was to replace the stretched spring with another I had, still 0psi. Any ideas? Btw when I first ran it, even though the oil pressure was low for cold it only dropped 10psi after it had been at temp. And another thing I noticed is the lines to the remote filter did not have much oil in them, I figured if it was pumping oil the lines would be full even if I had low pressure.

Hmm. So you made two change at the same time. The cover, and the filter.

If you really had 0psi then lifters would be rattling, and by now, the rod ends.

The filter, if tilted downwards, needs to be of a type with an anti-drainback valve.

Given your filter access problem, can understand you making the change to a remote.
Otoh, how often does one change the filter?

Think I'd take the easy way out and put it back as it was. Then if you still have a problem, it's the cover.

Long and short filters are available, if that helps.

Ivor

I pulled the adapter off and the gears out. Packed it with grease and reinstalled everything. Primed it with a drill and now have about 35psi. I think I need to play with the clearance now to get the pressure back up to where it was.

Anyone know why TA says to pack pump with jelly and not grease? I already used grease

I am going to Order the TA booster plate and shim kit unless someone advises otherwise.

RPI say Vaseline or grease. I think it's generally easier to fill up a hole with Vaseline
Anyway, if it's primed, either was OK.

So what hot oil pressure do you have now? Around 25-35 at 2500rpm on 20/50 oil, would be ball park.

Ivor

Young olds Vaseline has been commonly used for ages to prime oil pumps. It just breaks down and incorporates into the oil and will harm nothing in the engine. As for grease it will do the same but has a much weaker bond/stiction for priming. Vaseline is thicker and tackier.

I am out of town for work. When I get back I will check over what my oil pressures are now. I do not have 20/50 in it but will put some in.

Lucas make a 20/50 with good zddp level.
[lucasoil.com]

The thing about the RV8, it's a volume system rather than a high-pressure system.
Never seen that 70psi you mention. Wonder if your old prv wasn't working.

Ivor

Last time I ran it I had fresh 20/50 in it and cold start was 65/70 psi and hot was 30, but then I got water in the oil and it was down for almost a year until now. I put some cheap 15/40( with one quart of 30) to “clean” out the oil passages. When I get home I will drain and fill with good 20/50. Wear plate and shim kit are on there way as well.

Good oil pressure begins with tight bearing clearances. Properly set up this engine will easily produce upwards of 10psi/1000rpm running 10w30 oil. If you cannot do that, the first suspect is the bearing clearances. However, many owners run anywhere between 20w50 and straight 50 wt oil as a band-aid and that does work. I've even heard of 60 wt being used, though infrequently.

Read everything you can find on oiling. Search terms such as oil set-up, oiling mods, etc. When you have done that you will have a better idea of the proper way to go about this. And for god's sake, if you are building an engine keep your bearing clearances tight.

Jim

Buick oil pump mods. Some of these mods only apply to the bigger Buick engines.

"I'm rusty on the 215, but the oil pump configuration is somewhat different than the other Buicks. I think you should call TA and discuss it with them, hopefully it is something simple in the oil pump area. For instance, the oil pressure sender port is on the pump cover (not in the block) for the 215, plus I think the regulator passage is different and I think there are two of them??? I also know that you have to drill additional holes in the booster/wear plate if you added that. "

[www.buickperformanceclub.com]



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/08/2019 12:08PM by MGBV8.

These are for the Buick V6 turbo. so should also be applicable to the Buick/Olds/Rover V8s.

[www.vortexbuicks-etc.com]

[www.turbobuicks.com]

I was able to obtain an acceptable hot oil pressure of 28psi at an 850rpm idle, 180 degree temp.

Acceptable??!
Better than new, I'd have said.

Yep, better than mine.

Using a power drive to spin the oil pump I can see that oil is getting to the rocker shafts on both heads. However no oil pressure registers and I can see through the translucent oil tube that no oil is coming through the sending unit which is on the right side of the engine. (I am using the metric pump cover to avoid conflict with the Healey frame.)
Nice to know that the rockers are getting oil but what about the cam etc.
The engine starts and runs but I shut it off out of fear of damaging the cam and bearings.
What now? I am using the Healey oil gage.