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tips, technology, tools and techniques related to vehicle driveline components

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dbash
dave bash
St.Charles, MO
(1 posts)

Registered:
01/13/2009 08:40PM

Main British Car:
79 B rdst Olds 215 at this point

oil pump
Posted by: dbash
Date: January 13, 2009 08:52PM

Saw this article in Feb 09 Hot Rod mag

TA Performance has a high-performance oil pump assembly. Blueprinted, all new parts, with timing cover (modern neoprene front seal), pump cover, an oil pump gearset, a ductile iron booster plate,and an adjustable oil pressure regulator.

PN TA 1533 fits the early 198, 225 v6, 215 Buick/Olds, the early 300, the 340 small-block Buick v8 and all 350 Buick small-blocks. So they claim in this article

Says the engine should idle at 20 to 30 psi. No price listed.

In case anyone's interested

Still like to know what parts interchange into the olds 215 that are upgrades from '60s technology from later v6s - v8s etc.


Moderator
Curtis Jacobson
Portland Oregon
(4577 posts)

Registered:
10/12/2007 02:16AM

Main British Car:
71 MGBGT, Buick 215

authors avatar
Re: oil pump
Posted by: Moderator
Date: January 13, 2009 09:08PM

[www.taperformance.com]

The TA website says $450 - so apparently it's made out of solid gold.

What do a new V6 front cover and oil pump cost at the Buick parts counter?


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(6470 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: oil pump
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: January 14, 2009 09:34AM

A reasonable question. FWIW there are also front covers available (new) from at least two other sources. These are essentially identical to OEM. (not improved)

The TA piece has a few things going for it, but nothing that can't be accomplished in a weekend starting with the stock cover. It has a one piece neoprene crank seal, an easy retrofit. It has the booster plate, available separately and a much recommended upgrade that stiffens the pump gear housing. (about $20) It has the adjustable regulator, a convenience item, you can do the same thing with springs, shims, and/or stretching the spring a bit, trial and error. However, those who have tried the adjuster screw seem to recommend it for the most part. It has (I think) radiused corners in the oil passageways and the oil pump ports, and it is possible that the size of the oil passages have been enlarged. It is almost certainly sand cast, and the overall quality is not likely to be much different from the original part, although due to the sand casting the appearance will be a little different from the die cast original. Some will like that better, some will not.

It is not a miracle cure for a deficient oiling system or excessive bearing clearances. Paired with a new 5/8" pickup tube and enlarged pickup passages in the block it makes a nice improvement but bear in mind that the oiling system is the achillies heel of the BOPR, SBB and BBB which all share the same design. Tightly controlled bearing clearances are the real answer. It is common (and preferred) to see main bearing clearances in the big block of 0.0015" and this is on a 3-1/2" journal. Obviously great care must be used in making sure the alignment is dead on the money, but the payoff is an easy job for the pump to keep the pressure up. Another important mod is double grooved cam bearing inserts or re-routed oiling of the cam bearings. The high volume oil pump has lost favor due to damaged cam drive gears, distributor gears, sheared distributor drive gear pins, and damage to the front cam bearing and the block due to excessive loading.

But in the end it all comes back to the bearing clearances. Good results there give good results everywhere. Bad results there cannot be overcome by bandaids, at least not without other problems that also have to be addressed. But if your oil pressure is just a bit low and you don't mind pulling the front cover (like maybe you have a cam change planned) it is probably worthwhile to smooth all the sharp edges out of the oil flow path and upgrade the crank seal while you have the cover off, add the booster plate and see what you get. Bear in mind, cranking in the regulator will not help idle oil pressure. It vents excessive oil to the crankcase at higher speeds and during cold startup. That's one mod that won't boost idle oil pressure no matter what you do. If it's not there, it's not there.

Jim


hoffbug
Tony Hoffer
Minnesota
(323 posts)

Registered:
10/15/2007 05:25PM

Main British Car:
Olds 215 EFI

Re: oil pump
Posted by: hoffbug
Date: January 16, 2009 12:54PM

This is one area Im really interested in improving..

The interim covers with gerotor pump are rarer than hens teeth. and the stock system.... even modified.... has a lot to be desired..

My machinist built a Buick 350 bracket motor for a racer and installed an external single stage pump.. A bit expensive but it was the end of the problem.

http://rrconnectingrods.com/oil_pump_files/image295.jpg


If money were no object Id take it a step further and have Daily engineering make me one of there Beautiful dry sump pans with intergral pump.... Here is an example of one he has available for the Cosworth Vega.

http://www.daileyengineering.com/cosworth.jpg


V8Tech
Shaun O'Donnell

(19 posts)

Registered:
01/12/2009 11:37AM

Main British Car:


Re: oil pump
Posted by: V8Tech
Date: January 16, 2009 07:18PM

Has anyone got a picture of the TA performance pump? I may be blind but I can't see one on the linked page.

Shaun


NixVegaGT
Nicolas Wiederhold
Minneapolis, MN
(659 posts)

Registered:
10/16/2007 05:30AM

Main British Car:
'73 Vega GT 4.9L Rover/Buick Stroker

authors avatar
Re: oil pump
Posted by: NixVegaGT
Date: January 18, 2009 06:08PM

Pornographic.


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