Engine and Transmission Tech

Blue crystals... deposited silicates.
Avoidable by changing coolant at least every two years.

Depends how much there is... it can be removed by running a dilute acid solution, some say citric acid, some say oxalic acid.
Never tried it myself.

If there is a good radiator place near you, you might go and ask them what they use for cleaning.

Ivor

Since this thread started as my build conjectures, here’s the beginning of a cross flow ITB intake:



The runner cores are just rough test mules in a jig I’ll use when I do the lamination - I’m remaking the cores to slightly different shapes. But just getting it all mocked up has had me grinning and making the ‘brrraap brrrraap’ noise all afternoon. I’ve done marine composite and carbon work in the past, and higher-temp epoxies are getting more accessible. So, let’s try some automotive parts - what could go wrong?!?

That crossflow manifold looks awesome. Can you describe the process of designing and fabricating it? Since I am thinking of going EFI, this looks like an interesting option. And I'm curious what you're using for the injector system and the EFI management.

The most sensible EFI for this engine is a 4bbl TBI system such as the Sniper or whatever Edelbrock is calling theirs. Just bolt it to the 4bbl intake and go. There is also a mappable distributor.

Fitting a more sophisticated engine control system can be done, (I have an '02 GM system) but is very involved and difficult to pull off and is rather pointless unless there is some reason why the 4bbl arrangement won't work for you. In my case it was to accommodate the blower and Inderlie style air intake, but that doesn't fit under the hood like the other one can, and again, requires a lot more work. My first swap was a basic 4bbl 215. The 300 is a much better choice but the simplicity principle still applies. You can always build another engine while driving your first one and there is really no good excuse for putting that off.

At the conversion stage it is generally best to limit the added features as much as possible. Every one exponentially increases the timeline and expense. The goal is to get the car back on the road with the new powerplant so that you can experience it. Slowing that down is almost never a good idea. Get it back on the road and drive it. Then make your improvements so that they can be implemented in January or February when it'd be in the garage anyway.

Jim

Design: Starting with 300 heads and assuming ports enlarged about 1/16" all around, and CBR1100RR throttle bodies at the other end, I've tried to keep the flow as straight as possible by minimizing runner bends (the middle four need to wiggle a little to fit around each other) as well as align the runner angle to the intake angle in the up-down direction. I've checked the cross sections at several points to make sure the percentage change is as consistent as possible, with obviously no decelerations, just slightly varying accelerations to the airflow.

For fun I ran a runner through a free online CFD program, just to see how it looked.



How to build (Cliff notes version):
The runners are templated on their tops and sides, then the radius is just hand shaped to blend from the intake ports to the round TB's.
I'm using G10 as the flange faces, and at the top a temporary positioner made from UHMW plastic (cutting board stuff).
The runners will be laminated from a couple layers of carbon sleeve (chinese finger trap stuff - it compresses in diameter as it is pulled lengthwise) with some uni added between. Just a wet layup, no vacuum, but I'll tension the sleeves to compress and consolidate the layers. I've built kayak paddle shafts this way, and it's possible to make really light, really strong assemblies with this method.
The epoxy is a 300˚F high temp cure flavor, so it'll go into a powder coating oven and the temps manually ramped, held, and de-ramped.

The TB's will attach with silicone joiners, so the typical throttle linkages you often see with these won't work since there's too much flex (you really don't want the throttle position to change as the TB's move). I'm planning a less sexy and simple dual cable setup.

Jim,


As usual, I agree with you--getting the car on the road is the primary objective, or I'll be too old to ever enjoy it. I'm curious what your thoughts on the best approach to a manifold with a 4BBL TBI--dual plane, single plane, original 300 (of which I have two), and so on?

Also, have you (or anyone) heard of this TBI system? Seems to be less expensive than the usual name brands: [fitechefi.com]

Dual plane manifold any day of the week. Better fuel distribution and low end torque.
You are basically installing an electronic carb so all the old rules still apply.
Fitech has been around a long time. I've only ever installed one and it worked well.
Make sure that you use the ignition timing control in order to get the full benefits of the system.
I think that they still use a hand held programmer. Its easy to use and it beats dragging a laptop around with you.

Cheers
Fred

Thanks Fred, I have the Fitech one on my list--looks like a good choice.

And I am definitely leaning towards dual plane for the same reason--and better hood clearance, as well.

There was a big discussion on EFI on MGExp a while back. I came away thinking I would use a Holley Sniper if I went that route.

Hi Carl, good to know. I'm sure I can find it, but do you have a link for the thread?