Any reviews or long-term experiences of the starter motor sold by the wedge shop?
The one I’ll looking at is the aftermarket unit:
[thewedgeshopstore.com] (select aftermarket one wire in the options list for the correct picture) Reason I’m looking is I can’t fit my exhaust around the conventional starter motor with the solenoid on the side. The European Rover SD1 had the solenoid on the bottom but those appear to be non-existent stateside (the NAS SD1 used the side mount solenoid starter). The one in the link appears to have the endplate indexable which may help me out. |
minorv8 Jukka Harkola (268 posts) Registered: 04/08/2009 06:50AM Main British Car: Morris Minor Rover V8 |
Re: Any reviews or long-term experiences of the starter motor sold by the wedge shop?
I have had similar starter for about 10 years. I believe most if all are based on Denso starter. It is small (obviously :-) and powerful and so far have not caused any drama. IIRC I bought mine from Rimmers in UK.
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roverman Art Gertz Winchester, CA. (3188 posts) Registered: 04/24/2009 11:02AM Main British Car: 74' Jensen Healy, 79 Huff. GT 1, 74 MGB Lotus 907,2L |
Re: Any reviews or long-term experiences of the starter motor sold by the wedge shop?
If I don't run out of time... Plan to mod the billet nose of aftermarket sbc, to fit RV8.
could happen, art. |
Re: Any reviews or long-term experiences of the starter motor sold by the wedge shop?
I have a powerlite on mine,small and a lot more powerful then the standard version
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BlownMGB-V8 Jim Blackwood 9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042 (6448 posts) Registered: 10/23/2007 12:59PM Main British Car: 1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS |
Re: Any reviews or long-term experiences of the starter motor sold by the wedge shop?
I remember back in the early days before mini starters became available the trick was to get a starter with the aluminum nose piece (most were cast iron back then) and then weld and drill new tabs in order to rotate the solenoid to a more favorable position. This was certainly not a precision operation. The tabs were welded on while clamped to the existing tabs, then punch marks were made while holding it in place on the bellhousing. It was only required to trim off one of the original tabs. You needed a tig welder and a drill press although the holes could be hand drilled.
Jim |
Re: Any reviews or long-term experiences of the starter motor sold by the wedge shop?
Well, I got the starter, and its interesting.
They clearly have done some legwork, and found a starter off a Toyota or something, then machined the original mounting ears and some of the housing away, and then machined a pilot dia concentric with the pinion. A new part (that I'll call the adapter) was machined, with the pilot dia and ears (lugs) to fir the RV8, and a hole bored in the center that the nose of the starter engages into. What they have done, is to offset the center bore away from the crank axis - to get the mesh just right on the pinion to ring gear. It seems pretty good. There are a few holes around the adapter, which allows the starter to be indexed, but it is supplied in a position that gives the most clearance for headers. The interesting thing about these starters that I never appreciated is that the housing in line with the pinion is the solenoid, and the motor is the part offset from the main housing - not that it matters, Now, what I don't like is that the two original small (M4?) bolts that hold the solenoid to the housing are all that's used to hold the adapter to the main housing. TWS says these have been tested exhaustively, but I have decided to machine some small tube spacers to fit in the cast holes to reduce the bending on these small bolts. I'll upload pics later. |
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Re: Any reviews or long-term experiences of the starter motor sold by the wedge shop?
For years, I have either used junk yard sourced Bosche units from 4.0/4.6L Rovers, or used the cheaper than that direct fit Ebay starters. Both work great, are under 10 pounds, and bolt right in.
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