Engine and Transmission Tech

The concentric pump would have the pickup attach to the timing cover I think. So the pan would be just a little deeper in the front.

With the pickup midway the Buick V6 pickup (5/8") is the one to use.

Jim

Here’s the 4.0 front cover with crank oil pump, and the port (circled) that is fed from the mid-block pickup.


And here’s the oil path from pickup port to crank pump…


I thought the oiling diagram from the 4.0 and 4.6 overhaul manual might add clarity, but its flow paths on the diagram are just generic "tubes", and not actual parts.

Then I saw this a few pages later, showing the sump with a note that its an early engine version. Maybe that's the point of confusion, that there are two flavors of sump styles for the 4.0 and 4.6?:




Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/25/2023 08:34PM by Roverbeam.

So what is that port for with the red o-ring in it? Looks like it is for pressurized oil so, gage sender maybe?

Also I don't see why an old style pan would not work there.

Jim

That port in the bottom of the cover is for the pipe to the oil cooler.



Here's the symmetrical style pan gasket pattern (red), versus the one with the extra room for the pickup to feed directly into the front cover like Carl showed earlier:

Okay, here's the skinny on the two Rover pans for the 4.0/4.6 V8. It's GEMS vs Bosch.

"On a GEMS setup that is where the oil pickup tube would mount if I'm not mistaken. Bosch engines = pickup tube runs to the front cover."

[landroverforums.com]


How to tell a GEMS from a Bosch.

[www.roverparts.com]

Thanks for digging that out. I’ll put a note back on my post with template downloads to that effect, for the next person that reads this thread but doesn’t follow it to the end…

Went away for a while, and this was waiting for me when I got back.


The only gotchas in assembling this is to be sure to do the oil pan panel last, and to carefully note the left and right intake/exhaust pieces - they're different to mimic the offset head locations. I could probably cleverly add little L & R symbols to be water jetted into the parts, but I thought that would just drive up cost. I assembled mine just looking at the 3D pic on the 1st page of this thread, and it was easy enough.

I'm going to modify the files to include a 1/2" brake bend in the panels for the intake and exhaust - they're a bit flimsy as flat, pierced sheet metal. I did this for the motor mount panel's top edge, and it helped a bunch. So the updated files will look like this:


The waterjet company I used will do simple bends like these, or if you have the means to put a 90˚ bend in .030 steel it's easy enough to do.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/22/2023 11:37AM by Roverbeam.