Driveshaft advice?
Hey guys, as any sensible person would do I'm turning to BritishV8 for advice.
I'm wondering what's the most cost effective(while still being reliable) solution is for fitting a new driveshaft. I've heard D&D will fabricate one, but I'm wondering if there are any other options out there? Would it be better to find a donor driveshaft of some kind and have it shortened? Specs 94 BW WC T-5 Ford 8 inch rear end Needs to handle roughly 250whp Thanks for the help |
ex-tyke Graham Creswick Chatham, Ontario, Canada (1165 posts) Registered: 10/25/2007 11:17AM Main British Car: 1976 MGB Ford 302 |
Re: Driveshaft advice?
Robert, By all means have a used Ford 2-1/2" dia propshaft shortened to your specs - not a problem there. The trick is to ensure rotational balance after cutting and welding. Find a reputable shop that has that capability and you're good to go!
D&D used to rework used shafts until some customers started to complain that some used shafts exhibited unsightly pit marks from rust so he discontinued the practice and now only sells new made-to-order shafts. |
Moderator Curtis Jacobson Portland Oregon (4577 posts) Registered: 10/12/2007 02:16AM Main British Car: 71 MGBGT, Buick 215 |
Re: Driveshaft advice?
I think these folks are very near you, aren't they? [www.drivelinespecialist.com]
I'd start by giving them a phone call, or preferably by just dropping in at their shop! They will tell you exactly what method to use for measuring installed length, which is the one critical spec you left out (above). If the driveshaft is too long to accommodate axle movement, binding... Driveshafts are about as simple as anything gets... You can have one built from scratch, but it may or may not be cheaper to have one reworked. Back in the day, my local Dana Spicer shop had a pile of used driveshafts in their backyard. My first driveshaft was made from new tubing, but with a used Chevy front and with the rear yoke/flange from my MG driveshaft. When I changed to a Ford rear axle, I got the local junkyard that sold me the axle to include the Ford propshaft. My local Dana Spicer shop was happy to rework the driveshaft to mate with the Ford axle. The whole job, including balancing, is quick if they know what they're doing. What are people paying for driveshafts these days? Fifteen years ago, the going rate was around $200. Maybe more in some towns... |
Bill Young Bill Young Kansas City, MO (1337 posts) Registered: 10/23/2007 09:23AM Main British Car: '73 MG Midget V6 , '59 MGA I6 2.8 GM, 4.0 Jeep |
Re: Driveshaft advice?
Curtis, the cost is still in that area depending on the part of the country I guess. The shaft for my Midget ran about $150 to have it cut down from the original Chevy Monza unit and the correct yoke for the T5 u joint put on the front about 10 years ago. I recently had a shaft for an old pickup repaired and rebalanced and it ran about $175 if I remember correctly.
I've never had any problems if I gave the shop a center to center distance for the shaft. I just slip the transmission yoke in about half way and measure from the eye of that to the center of the rear u joint. It doesn't have to be precise, within a quarter inch will do fine as the slip yoke will allow for some variation. Make sure you take the measurment with weight on the rear suspension though. |
rficalora Rob Ficalora Willis, TX (2764 posts) Registered: 10/24/2007 02:46PM Main British Car: '76 MGB w/CB front, Sebring rear, early metal dash Ford 302 |
Re: Driveshaft advice?
New shaft made for my T5/Nissan R200S ran about $185 including rear flange & T5 yoke from a local drive shaft shop.
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Edd Weninger Edd Weninger Mogollon Airpark Overgaard AZ (22 posts) Registered: 10/28/2007 12:49PM Main British Car: 1977 MGB Rover 3.5 L EFI |
Re: Driveshaft advice?
FYI, around SoCal and Az the 4-wheel drive shops do a lot of this stuff inexpensively, including the spin balancing.
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