Steering, Suspension, & Brakes

So over the summer break I've been able to almost finish my 5L rv8 Roadster project(finally)

I'm wondering what wisdom you guys could share on suspension setups for auto-x and light road courses(2mi NC track "Drift Water")

The car is also driven on the street so I want to keep it somewhat tolerable.

So far I have 550lb front lowering springs (Moss: 264-395), reverse eye rear leaf springs, fab tek anti-tramp bars, polyurethane mounts all around, stock front sway bar, no rear sway bar, ford 8" LSD. I'm also running the rear shocks off a CB. I'd like to re-valve all 4 shocks as I feel that would make a significant difference. I'm running 15x7 superlites and planning to wrap them in Direzzas(apparently my friends claim this is the hot street/auto-x tire). Should I restack the rear springs for a softer rear?

Also what about brakes? I've been spoiled by driving my fathers wilwood big brake setup. I'm running stock rotors/calipers with hp brake pads and rebuilt drums will that be enough stopping power?

Any other advice? I've driven a v8 conversion with a 7/8" front sway bar and it didn't feel right on the street but I understand sway bars play a big part.

I know I'm asking a lot of questions but I can't think of a better place

I like the Big Brake setup Curtis mensions on a thread on this page.BMW Mini-cooper with Nissan 4 pot calipers for stock wheel lug pattern. Now if you wanted to have 5 lug pattern you might be interested in the thread about Chevy hubs and late model Camaro/Firebird brakes.

Robert, it sounds like your car is really coming together and it's going to be excellent.

Have you been enjoying the new "race car" articles?

I like the Cooper/Nissan set-up too... but for autocrossing in particular, stock brakes in good repair with sticky pads might be perfectly fine. Big brake kits really come into their own when you start doing track days and you need fat vented rotors to dissipate heat and prevent brake fade. Lots of vintage racers are running stock MGB brakes, and some of them have told me fade isn't a problem at all on their cars. Believe me, I've been asking. Their experience is all over the map, apparently because results vary based on driver skill and technique. With regard to sway bars, there are A LOT of variables and what works on one MGB V8 might not suit another car or driver at all. My advice in both areas: drive your car before you decide. Try to make one change at a time so that you can really focus your attention. Ideally, a stopwatch or a GTech type device might be very helpful.

If you run stock front brakes, I'd recommend removing the backing plates. They're dead weight, and they inhibit airflow. One cheap enhancement of the brake system is addition of "residual pressure valves". In practice, I find they shorten pedal travel. I also really like a good stout Panhard rod. Like residual pressure valves, it might be that my Panhard rod simply improves feel and thus I drive more confidently with it. If a really good driver took my car out on a racetrack and tested it, he/she might find that neither residual pressure valves or Panhard rod improve lap times.

Also stock MGB calipers can use the bigger TR8 pads(same as MGV8).

Thanks guys!

Curtis, I'm certainly enjoying the new articles! Its nice to see how the experienced racers set up there cars. I think getting it running under its own power is the first step :) I'm getting tired of pushing it in and out of the garage.