rficalora Rob Ficalora Willis, TX (2764 posts) Registered: 10/24/2007 02:46PM Main British Car: '76 MGB w/CB front, Sebring rear, early metal dash Ford 302 |
Re: You won't believe this
There is an element of peace of mind, but I really wanted to do the DOM route. What really put me over the edge was the combination of two things:
1. since I can't turn & weld them myself, I'm dependant on shops. Local shops were quoting about 3 to 3.5 hrs per axle for machining & welding time; that plus the DOM puts the price not all that much less than the DSS answer. 2. turn around time -- DSS is 1 week. The two shops I'm comfortable with here were talking approx 3 weeks which puts me very close to Townsend -- not much time left to shake out the car before the meet. Rob |
mgb260 Jim Nichols Sequim,WA (2463 posts) Registered: 02/29/2008 08:29PM Main British Car: 1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8 |
Re: You won't believe this
Rob, Sounds like you are almost there. This article on CV's talk a little about using used axles and "unwinding". Made me rethink about using one axle and cutting it in half. I will get 2 Vanagon axles and mark them L and R the way they came off. If you think about it, it makes sense.The axles always twist the same way,so when you reverse them they want to twist the opposite. Your break does look like that,plus your 1" short axle might have even stressed it more. The modifications for travel angle are for buggys. Most car u joints only have 7-8 max angle where the VW Type 2 has 17. He likes the BMW CV's. Same as type 2 but allow 21 degree angle(not neccessary for street). GT40 and Cobra kit cars use the Porsche 930 like the ones you are getting,should be heavy duty. [www.rorty-design.com]
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/25/2011 08:44PM by mgb260. |
Re: You won't believe this
Rob,
Releived to hear you went with the DSS solution. Im sure your wallet isnt but in this case DSS will serve you well. I have had several sets of axles and drive shafts made up by them and trully am impressed with the quality. The other peice of this is down the road if you ever have a CV failure the parts are MUCH easier to get and install. If there is anything else you need in this please let me know! |
rficalora Rob Ficalora Willis, TX (2764 posts) Registered: 10/24/2007 02:46PM Main British Car: '76 MGB w/CB front, Sebring rear, early metal dash Ford 302 |
Re: You won't believe this
Jim or anyone who's messed with the R200S differential -- should there be any end play on the diff stub axles? On mine the driver side is solid -- if i tug on the flange there's no movement. On the passenger side there's 3/32 to 1/8" of end play. I did a little google surfing & found some folks saying that's normal & some saying not normal??
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mgb260 Jim Nichols Sequim,WA (2463 posts) Registered: 02/29/2008 08:29PM Main British Car: 1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8 |
Re: You won't believe this
Rob, Take a rubber hammer and tap on it a little. It's held in with a snap ring. If that is the side that broke, it might have pulled out a bit. I can't wiggle either on my R230.
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rficalora Rob Ficalora Willis, TX (2764 posts) Registered: 10/24/2007 02:46PM Main British Car: '76 MGB w/CB front, Sebring rear, early metal dash Ford 302 |
Re: You won't believe this
it isn't the side that the axle broke on. Driver side axle broke: this is on the passenger side. Is the snap ring something you can get at by taking the rear cover off or would I have to disassemble the whole thing?
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mgb260 Jim Nichols Sequim,WA (2463 posts) Registered: 02/29/2008 08:29PM Main British Car: 1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8 |
Re: You won't believe this
Rob, You don't need to take the cover off or disassemble. The output stub shafts just pop in. It is a simple round wire snap ring in a groove. I've pried the output stub shafts out with two pry bars and used a slide hammer puller also. Just use a rubber hammer or hammer a block of wood to put it back in. I would just try tapping it in first. Keep us posted.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/20/2011 11:29AM by mgb260. |