Steering, Suspension, & Brakes

Not expensive and actually does a lot more than suspension.
Not the ultimate system but $30.00 not $3000.00.
Also does a lot of other functions, once I learn to use it.
[www.speed-wiz.com]

Still trying to come up with the basic starting points of my design.

Pictures of what gas been done before and a trip to Kinkos has yielded some starting points.

Still hoping the original designer will sell me drawings but if not I can now work out my own, just slowly.

Old School at Chaffey College, we learned to start with lower control arm, parallel to ground at static ride height. Upper control arm to be approx. 2/3 length of lower arm. Good Luck, roverman.

Found out this morning that the Sierra/Xr4ti setup I had hoped to get has all been scrapped, fixtures and drawings.

So I gave up on doing what some one else had done and actually made some progress today.

Mostly cutting metal but I think I've figured out how to mount the Sierra/Merkur diff!

Good thing since it was keeping me awake.

Pics once I'm a little further along.


Basically I cut away most of the original Sierra/xr4ti diff cradle except for the mounting plates and a small section of the curved tube between them.

I plan to weld some rectangular box section steel vertically to the ends terminating at horizontal brackets that will fit the original Triumph mounts.

This is similar to how Toyota and such are usually done.


In addition I also cut away the center of the rear body mount.

I will now be able to add a horizontal bar to reinforce it while also fitting an original rear diff mount.

Hoping I can get one in Poly as the original rubber is too soft for my preference.

Once done the diff will be able to drop out the bottom easily as original.

I am off-setting it a bit in order to have equal length axle shafts.


With the diff in I will be able to work on the A arms, uprights, and shock mounts.

Since this is not a sanctioned racer there are no set rules and I am free to do whatever I like for suspension.



Anyone have an "Ideal" rear suspension geometry for a 49" track?

Now need to read up on best CV joint axle angles at static, along with correctly figuring length.

Then I will be able to work out the A arms and uprights.

I suspect, other than roll stiffness, your tire tread width and flex/sidewall stiffness, will help determine how much de-camber curve you'll need. Wider/stiffer tire will want less de-camber. Good Luck, roverman.

Still trying to wrap my head around the terms and their effects.
Slowly getting the basic parameters input for Speed-Wiz.
Nowhave correct track and reasonable travel.
Found the factory lower arm pivot point measurments in the GT6 manual.
For camber it seems a longer upper arm mounted further inboard is giving the "best" camber result.
Probably because that gets closer to duplicating the original upper leaf spring and the engineers did the best they could with it.
Trying to KISS this, doing as little actual modification as possible consistent with a sound result.

Coil-over shocks, or transverse leaf ? The C5 + Corvette composite leaf, is designed to add roll stiffness, therefore needing only a light-rate anti roll bar.

Absolutly disposing of the transvers leaf!
Upper A arms and coil over shocks are the plan.
Trying for significant suspension improvement with much reduced camber change.
Fat tires won't want to fit in the fenders without rubbing unless I can limit camber change.