Bodywork, Paint, Interior, Trim, & Wiring

Two questions...

Grille gaps -- Any tips or tricks to getting a replacement chrome grill to have even gaps between the grille/fenders; grille/hood? The grille to fender gaps are good at the bottom, but too wide in the curved part at the top. More than I think I can adjust by flaring the grille sides out a bit. Have any of you had to cut that area of the fender to re-shape it to get the fit right? Or is there another tip/trick I need to know?

Bumper install -- Using chrome bumper brackets on my '76 RB shell so have to drill the holes through the "frame" rails. Do CB shells have hollow tube welded in where those brackets bolt on to keep the rail from "collapsing"? Thoughts on whether that's needed? Or, any other simple ideas for an alternate way to install the brackets (the original RB mounting plates are gone on my car so using them to hold the bumper isn't an option).

Thanks,
Rob

Rob, yes you should install the spacer tubes. Otherwise there's no practical way to get the necessary strength. They should be welded or brazed in place. Grilles are a real problem and most seem to fit poorly. Part of this can be blamed on bad quality control and part on no consistency between factory parts and repo parts. About all that can be done is to try grilles from different sources until one that fits is found. Or make your own but that's a bit of a job.

Jim

Rob,
When I converted my '76 to CB, I inserted a tapping plate into the sidemembers (from the front after removing the RB end flanges). I don't remember all the details but essentially it's a length of steel flat stock with fine thread nuts welded on at the appropriate dimension for the CB brackets, inserted into the xmbr and welded to the frame.
I don't believe the original MG rails had spacer tubes but weld nuts welded to the inner rail half before the inner and outer rail halves were seam welded together. Certainly if you choose to use through bolts, you will need spacer tubes.

Good idea Graham, thanks. I had the original bolts that are long/through bolts so that's what I was thinking -- the way you did it is way simpler & small pieces of stout flat bar is easier to by than than hollow rod. Thanks!

On the grille, here's what I've got... the gap is about 1/8" on both sides near the bottom; 3/8" at the spot measured on the left & about 5/16" on the right. Plus, the curve on the left doesn't come close. I'm thinking to get it right I'm going to have to rework the curve in the fender...