Bodywork, Paint, Interior, Trim, & Wiring

Does anyone know how to remove broken seat bolts?

I tried tapping them as well as using a counter sink tool. I tried drilling but just made a mess.

I don't want to poke holes in the mounts in order to retain integrity and don't want to over-drill the holes and install bolts right through to the underside.

I noticed there seems to be a little space behind the outter mounts with what feels like tabs. Can those tabs be bent out and the plate holding the bolt bit be removed? what about the floor mounts without a space?

Any tips would be great.

Thanks,

Trip



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/26/2009 01:13AM by TRip.

Trip you poor guy! Which bolts broke off? The front or rear? Inboard or outboard ones? Some can be fixed with some cutting and a tack weld here and there and some just can be a night mare!

Maybe best if I take some pics and then post them here.

Trip

Please beacuse only one of the four are not captured into a body panel. The other three are in frames so access can get messy!

Ya... these are the messy ones. :(

Passenger side rear bolt - tunnel side


Passenger side front bolt - tunnel side


Drivers side rear bolt - tunnel side


Drivers side front bolt - tunnel side




Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/30/2009 11:02PM by TRip.

A few years back when I was younger and less patient, I tried to drill and tap them and messed them up more. The front drivers is missing the threads underneath. I suspect that there was only a nut welded underneath from the factory(?). The driver's rear the threads are stripped but the (nut) is still in place.

The pass front has the bolt stem still there about 1/2 inch. I have WD40'd the heck out of it and tried clamping a visegrip but couldn't budge it. Haven't attemped again since.

The funny thing is that the first few times I originally removed the bolts they were fine. It almost seemed as though the bolts were suffering from metal fatigue and twisted apart way too easy in the end.

Trip

The common fix for MGBs when this happens is to cut the area out and weld in a new piece of steel with a captive nut attached. Just make your patch plate first without the captive nut and drill the hole for the stud, then place it over the existing broken bolt or hole to align and mark the cut lines. Then cut out the old captive nut, weld new nuts on the patch panels and weld them in place. Using a bolt in the new plate to attach a length of square stock will make a good support to help align the panels without risking them dropping into the frame channel when you tack weld.

Thanks for the advice, Bill.

Yet another good reason for me to learn to weld!

Trip

You might try applying a little heat

Hi Dan,

Heat... OK, I'll give it a try tonight.

Trip

The front bolt is inside the frame that runs across the transmission tunnel so cutting out the area and getting a new plate with a nut tack welded on is the fix. The rear is simple. It is just a nut welded to the tunnel and can be seen from underneath. That one you can grind off and tack weld another nut back on or just leave it loose but you will have to hold it with a wrench when you put the seat back in. These are all common problem. On your other post with the floor issue you need to get a small welder and get burning!

Hey Mike,

"The rear is simple. It is just a nut welded to the tunnel and can be seen from underneath."

I hadn't seen the nut. I'll check again. That'll make things way easier!

One of the broken "frame" bolts has about 1/2" sticking out. It'll be nice if I can get that one out with a vice-grip.... Work in progress.

Yeah, I'm excited about learning to weld.

Trip



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/02/2009 05:37PM by TRip.

Here are some pictures of the front and rear nuts. Both are wleded to plates that are in turn welded to the body.

Mike, you really went out of your way to share this information with me and I thank you for that! :)

I'll look for all the spots you pointed out tomorrow.

Thank you again,

Trip

Trip-Your talking a few minutes, with the exception of one picture I already had these in a file. Like I said I have owned and parted out way tooo many TR7s and TR8s. I started in High School as a freshman in 1986 with a 1970 Chevelle SS that was sold (car was a beast at 12mpg) and bought an 1969 MGB-GT that I owned for 7 years and restored twice. I then went to work out of High School while attempting college worked at 2 british car resotration shops in Massachusetts working everything british and even german. I also helped and then worked full time at The Wedge Shop for 8 years. I know rust........that is why I am glad to be in Maryland! Your situation is normal with a TR7 and even TR8s! They all rust the same way but with the extra power actually will rip apart. One thing you will need to do is keep the doors on and open them as little as possible when you start working on the rocker as with all open cars. If you pull the doors then brace the openings. Well it is crunch time to see how much effort you want to put into this 7?

Mike, you have an enviable resume!

you know, I love European cars but also love American muscle... That Chevelle must have been sweet... especially for a teenager in high school. Isn't it funny, gas was cheap compared to now.

Maryland warm, Canada coooold! I see your point. I can only imagine.

No more power until I fix the mush. :(

Keeping the doors on is a great tip. Hadn't thought of that. Doors off would probably end up with a car twisted looking just like your avatar! LOL

"Well it is crunch time to see how much effort you want to put into this 7?" You got that right!

Trip