roverman Art Gertz Winchester, CA. (3188 posts) Registered: 04/24/2009 11:02AM Main British Car: 74' Jensen Healy, 79 Huff. GT 1, 74 MGB Lotus 907,2L |
MGB side ridge
Has anyone removed the horizontal side ridges, in metal ? Is there an article somewhere ? I don't mean filling in with bondo, but possibly cutting and re-welding ? IMHO, this would look good with all the smooth sided fenders and arches available. Thanks, roverman.
|
rficalora Rob Ficalora Willis, TX (2764 posts) Registered: 10/24/2007 02:46PM Main British Car: '76 MGB w/CB front, Sebring rear, early metal dash Ford 302 |
Re: MGB side ridge
Never have seen it done. I thought about it but decided I like it - seems to help make the car look a little longer.
|
Jim Stabe Jim Stabe San Diego, Ca (829 posts) Registered: 02/28/2009 10:01AM Main British Car: 1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy |
Re: MGB side ridge
This car has all the ridge removed except for the door and it gives you some idea of what it might look like. [www.britishracecar.com]
When I made my fenders I went to a lot of trouble to reproduce the line because I think it is part of the identity of the car right down to the fade away at the rear by the tail light. Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/04/2012 11:41AM by Jim Stabe. |
BlownMGB-V8 Jim Blackwood 9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042 (6470 posts) Registered: 10/23/2007 12:59PM Main British Car: 1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS |
Re: MGB side ridge
I have considered it, but not for long. The work required to remove it is, well, a lot. It does cause issues with the wheelwell flares and as Jim says it is an identifying feature so there are quite a few pros and cons. Sort of like the joiner strips on top of the fenders. My feeling is that if they are not there it raises a question of why? Body damage? Rust? And while nobody here would be likely to have removed them for those reasons it still raises the question.
I'm a little inclined to think that SBF owners are a bit more likely to remove them. Not to single anyone out but they seem on average a bit less concerned with such traditional identifiers and more willing to make some of the more radical changes. Pot calling the kettle black here I know, just a personal observation and not meant as a criticism. Jim |
Jim Stabe Jim Stabe San Diego, Ca (829 posts) Registered: 02/28/2009 10:01AM Main British Car: 1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy |
Re: MGB side ridge
Jim
I thought quite a while before removing the fender joint strips for the reasons you mentioned and I may regret it after the car is painted. In the end, I went for a slightly smoother look. Have to wait and see. |
|
Jim Stabe Jim Stabe San Diego, Ca (829 posts) Registered: 02/28/2009 10:01AM Main British Car: 1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy |
Re: MGB side ridge
Carl
Do you know if Mike welded the front fender to cowl gap or just filled in with lead so it would be repairable? |
rficalora Rob Ficalora Willis, TX (2764 posts) Registered: 10/24/2007 02:46PM Main British Car: '76 MGB w/CB front, Sebring rear, early metal dash Ford 302 |
Re: MGB side ridge
I welded mine. Was worried if I didn't it'd crack over time. Repair doesn't seem much harder to me. One line to cut and fender will come off.
|
danmas Dan Masters Alcoa, Tennessee (578 posts) Registered: 10/28/2007 12:11AM Main British Car: 1974 MGBGT Ford 302 |
Re: MGB side ridge
Jim,
Don Marcott "stitch" welded mine - a series of short welds spaced 2 - 3 inches apart - and then filled in the seam. This way, you get the rigidity of a welded seam, but if you ever have to replace a panel, you only have to cut a few welds. So far, so good. Four years and 11,500 miles later, no cracks. Don is a 75 year old retired master bodyman who owned a large body shop for his entire adult life, and is still doing body work in his home shop while his sons carry on the business. You should see the work he did on my car up close! |
Jim Stabe Jim Stabe San Diego, Ca (829 posts) Registered: 02/28/2009 10:01AM Main British Car: 1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy |
Re: MGB side ridge
Dan
Did he use lead or plastic filler? I hope to have my car at the 2014 V8 meet in Colorado Springs, see you there? I'm anxious to see a lot of the cars I have only been able to see in pictures. |
kerbau53 Geoff Morton Naples, FL (109 posts) Registered: 08/09/2010 10:27PM Main British Car: 78 MGB Ford 5L |
Re: MGB side ridge
|
|
Jim Stabe Jim Stabe San Diego, Ca (829 posts) Registered: 02/28/2009 10:01AM Main British Car: 1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy |
Re: MGB side ridge
This is going to solve a couple issues I have. My new windshield doesn't cover the really wide part of the fender gap and I now know how I'm going to attach the fenders at the bottom, thanks guys.
|
DonB Don Bonar Prairie Village, KS (80 posts) Registered: 09/09/2011 10:06AM Main British Car: 1971 MG-B 95 GM 3.4 V-6 |
Re: MGB side ridge
Jim,
I'd strongly advise welding your fender-to-cowling gap... Lead is easier, quicker and... much weaker! I've seen three examples of lead cracking and ruining relatively new paint jobs.For a trailer queen, maybe you get by... but hard driving and big torkin' V-8 mommas twisting on the unibody? It just won't hold and was never intended to glue anything together. Ask the old lead production guys. If they had our current modern bonding and filling agents, we'd never see lead. Yes, I've smeared some of it around for a dozen years... but no more. Also remember it will not weld so you will have to grind it out and the dust can be a killer. Local paint shops have to wear the full hood, hasmat gear while removing and they hate it and charge extra. On my 71B, I removed the chrome and welded up the holes but used impregnated short glass hair filler, followed with skim coat to produce a more mellow line. Still think it needs the line, but more subtle and NO chrome. personal choice makes for more interesting cars... I'll bet your no-line approach will be a really slick ! Cheers, Don B. |
Jim Stabe Jim Stabe San Diego, Ca (829 posts) Registered: 02/28/2009 10:01AM Main British Car: 1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy |
Re: MGB side ridge
I'm almost done with the radiator shrouding and then I have to make the hood before I pull the engine back out and start in on finishing up the bodywork chores. I still need to finish up the front valence and undertray, make new lower sections for the front fenders, fill in the parking light holes and couple other little niggly tasks I have been putting off. I want to get all the underside metal work done and epoxy primered and the body straight with 80 grit and epoxy primered and then I will start assembling the car for shakedown. I'd like to start it next spring and drive it for a couple months to work out the inevitable bugs and then take it apart for paint and finishing.
|