Bodywork, Paint, Interior, Trim, & Wiring

discussions about bodywork, paint, interiors, trim, audio, electrical components, wiring, etc.

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Tegguy
Dustin Sondenaa

(25 posts)

Registered:
01/27/2008 05:27PM

Main British Car:


Inner fender problem
Posted by: Tegguy
Date: January 29, 2008 08:11PM

Hey guys I was curiuos if someone could tell me how hard it would be to replace the passenger inner wheel arch. Mine has rusted completly through on this TR6 I bought. I can get a new one on vicoria british but was curious how hard it would be to replace. Pics to come.


Tegguy
Dustin Sondenaa

(25 posts)

Registered:
01/27/2008 05:27PM

Main British Car:


Re: Inner fender problem
Posted by: Tegguy
Date: March 16, 2008 08:30PM

Anyone?


V6 Midget
Bill Young
Kansas City, MO
(1337 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 09:23AM

Main British Car:
'73 MG Midget V6 , '59 MGA I6 2.8 GM, 4.0 Jeep

authors avatar
Re: Inner fender problem
Posted by: V6 Midget
Date: March 16, 2008 10:59PM

It's a difficult area to work in. If you have the car apart then it becomes a little easier if you can roll the body or have a rotisserie. You will of course need to remove the old rusted section, I recommend cutting the excess away leaving the flanges intact then removing the spot welds on those by drilling or grinding which ever method you prefer. Take some measurments before you remove any metal and if you think the body might shift or twist then install some type of bracing across the area if possible. Once the old metal is removed then you can position the new piece and either hold it in place with clecos, or as I use self drilling sheet metal screws. Because of the access it will probably be easiest to use plug welds to install the new panel, and simply remove the screws as you go along and weld up those holes as well.
This is a difficult panel to work with, so if the car's still together it will take time and patience to get it done, but it's possible.


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5855 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: Inner fender problem
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: March 17, 2008 01:34PM

Another good method for removing spot welds is a sharp chisel and hammer.

[forum.britishv8.org]

HTH

Jim


Tegguy
Dustin Sondenaa

(25 posts)

Registered:
01/27/2008 05:27PM

Main British Car:


Re: Inner fender problem
Posted by: Tegguy
Date: March 27, 2008 01:46AM

Do you think there will be an issue of the body twisting or shifting? I do not have a rack I can put it on however the car is pretty much metal only right now here is a pic it doesn't show the area the best buy gives you an idea You can't see it but the area where the yellow rope is there is a decent hole the rope actually is tied through the hole.
CIMG06162.JPG



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/27/2008 01:48AM by Tegguy.


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5855 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: Inner fender problem
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: March 27, 2008 11:31AM

As long as your frame is straight and undamaged you should be OK. The repair could be done off the frame but possibly the best would be to install all new body cushions at the body mounts, line up the new piece, take measurements triangulating across and up and down and once everything is properly located start making your welds, first at the extremes to lock in your location and then working from the center of each seam outwards in small increments. Take your time, it's easier to make sure it's right than to go back and change it.

But often it's better to repair one of these panels than to replace it. Can you post some good shots of the damaged areas?

Jim


V6 Midget
Bill Young
Kansas City, MO
(1337 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 09:23AM

Main British Car:
'73 MG Midget V6 , '59 MGA I6 2.8 GM, 4.0 Jeep

authors avatar
Re: Inner fender problem
Posted by: V6 Midget
Date: March 27, 2008 01:37PM

Dustin, I somehow started off with the assumption that you were talking about the rear arch. The front is much easier to access, still you have some added body work with the flares and those probably tie into the wheel arch pieces so it might be easier to patch the area like Jim suggested. It would be easier to assess the damage with a better photo, but if it's a small area the patch panel should be fairly easy to fabricate at home, if it's larger then you might have to buy the assembly and trim off what you need. Butt welding in a patch panel isn't too hard, just takes some time an patience to make the joint line as accurate as possible and work carefully. I had to butt in a new nose assembly to my MGA and it worked out pretty well. I left the body on the frame and used it as a "jig" for the nose. Got that tack welded in place then removed the body from the frame and finished the welding on the rotisserie where I could get better access.
DSCF0085.JPG
NoseSplice2.JPG



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