Voltage Stabilizer - rebuilt per article - question
I enjoyed the article by Curtis regarding the voltage stabilizer and decided to rebuild mine (on a TR6 speedo) - I used the LM2940T-10.0 - but skipped the LED and resistor as I don't plan to ever get back behind it.
I noticed that if I supply 14 volts from an old train transformer I get about 12V out of the stabilizer - even though it is a 10.0 "model" - is this because there is no load on it (just bench testing). I have an old mechanical stabilizer and it shows a fairly even 10V. I thought maybe I overheated the first one, so i bought a few more (only $1 each locally) but they all seem to test the same. Any suggestions? Thanks, Andrew |
DiDueColpi Fred Key West coast - Canada (1365 posts) Registered: 05/14/2010 03:06AM Main British Car: I really thought that I'd be an action figure by now! |
Re: Voltage Stabilizer - rebuilt per article - question
It's reacting that way because the "old train transformer" is supplying ac current and the stabilizer is acting more like a rectifier than a regulator.
Essentially it sees 28 volts rather than 14 and can't deal with the excess effectively. Heat sinking is critical, because as you probably noticed. These little critters get really hot, really fast, and burn up quickly. When used as Curtis described they work well and are dead reliable. Cheers Fred |
Re: Voltage Stabilizer - rebuilt per article - question
Hmmm I thought my transformer was dc out. But it could be AC.
I left the heat sink on, but soldere to the ground leg instead of bolting it to the case. Do you recommend bolting it the housing to increase the heat transfer capability? Thanks! |
DiDueColpi Fred Key West coast - Canada (1365 posts) Registered: 05/14/2010 03:06AM Main British Car: I really thought that I'd be an action figure by now! |
Re: Voltage Stabilizer - rebuilt per article - question
I would fasten it down just to be safe.
Cheers |
Re: Voltage Stabilizer - rebuilt per article - question
BTW - checked my power supply it is labeled 14V DC and that is what multimeter shows... I guess i need to wait until my Dash is finished and i can hook up gauges and sending units and then measure the voltages.
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MGBV8 Carl Floyd Kingsport, TN (4512 posts) Registered: 10/23/2007 11:32PM Main British Car: 1979 MGB Buick 215 |
Re: Voltage Stabilizer - rebuilt per article - question
For those that want to study the Smiths Voltage Stabilizer in a bit more detail, I came across this article.
[www.minimania.com] |
BlownMGB-V8 Jim Blackwood 9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042 (6470 posts) Registered: 10/23/2007 12:59PM Main British Car: 1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS |
Re: Voltage Stabilizer - rebuilt per article - question
I've used the LM317T. Probably have one on my car now. It works well. You can occasionally buy solid state regulators ready made in the old case for about $15 or so. (Price has probably gone up.)
Jim |
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MGBV8 Carl Floyd Kingsport, TN (4512 posts) Registered: 10/23/2007 11:32PM Main British Car: 1979 MGB Buick 215 |
Re: Voltage Stabilizer - rebuilt per article - question
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BlownMGB-V8 Jim Blackwood 9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042 (6470 posts) Registered: 10/23/2007 12:59PM Main British Car: 1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS |
Re: Voltage Stabilizer - rebuilt per article - question
Just as important as adjusting the voltage is adjusting the gage. More so really. Most gages of this type have adjustments for zero and full scale that you can tweak with a 1/8" flat blade screwdriver. Done right, you can have your gage accurately reading empty and full. In between is of course not so accurate usually, but you really do want to know when the float hits bottom.
Jim |