Bodywork, Paint, Interior, Trim, & Wiring

Good morning everyone,

I want to have my MGB shell repainted in the early 1960s Iris Blue factory color.

I know nothing about paint, so I could use some pointers regarding what to ask for when I shop around.

I'm building the car as an "alternate history" version of an MGB, so I'd like the paint to look more or less like a good factory job, but with better durability.

The car was repainted 14-ish years ago but then sat unassembled until now, so it's a straight and rust-free rolling shell. It's a late 70s pageant blue color now, not very well applied, with lots of nicks and scratches from knocking around someone's garage. If there's any rust or filler, I can't find it. Panel fit is excellent. Heavy undercoating everywhere underneath.

Do I have the paint on the car stripped off? Sanded off? Painted over? I have no idea what prep would be necessary or wise.

What kind of modern paint would be a good fit for my application?

Many thanks!

Dave

Would a place like MAACO give me what I'm looking for?

Maaco will make a vehicle look ok at 20 or 30 feet at a reasonable price, however a quality paint job will cost $2000 at a minimum and probably more. The materials alone will be in the neighborhood of $500. Quality paint work is not inexpensive. You might investigate a local vocational program as a way of saving money. If you want a factory look to the finish I would recommend a single stage paint and not a two stage (base coat-clear coat). Just my opinion

If it's red it costs more. I spent $700 almost 20 years ago on a burgundy base/clear just on supplies only. Probably well over $1k today.

Jim

Hi Don,

Many thanks.

With single stage paint, is there any type of paint to ask for, or avoid?

What normally happens to prep a surface that doesn't have rust? Do I need to have it taken down the bare metal then redone from there, or can I get decent results by spot-sanding the scratched areas? The blue on it now is darker than the color I want, if that matters.

If you want a quality repaint I would suggest finding a shop that works on porsche, Lexus, Mercedes, or something of that range as the car owners are generally picky and expect high quality product for an estimate of the work to be done to meet YOUR expectations. Then you can visit several more in your area with good reputations/recommendations for comparison quotes. Look at some of their finished work. You could/will spend a lot of money in any case. Good luck

I think your first consiseratin should be , what type of paint is on it now, did it have a hardener mixed in it( most old acrylic enamel jobs used hardners to bring out gloss and durability, however even if it did not have hardner in it it is still an old paint job and not as touchy as when first painted. another question was it color sanded and rubbed out, if so it is probably reasonably flat (smooth)
I would say it needs to be blocked and the pits/ scratches etc filled then a sealer applied before respray, then depending on the shop you choose I reckon base coat clear coat ? or a single stage color ( which also could be color sanded and wheeled.
Dave

Just for the heck if it, I looked up prices I paid in 2014 for paint etc.
E350 epoxy primer $101/gal
E350 epoxy hardener $31/quart
HS surfacer/sealer $180/gal
HS activator $$39/quart
HS hardener $61/quart
Wanda brand clear $80/gal (included hardener)
Base color (Honda San Marino red R-94) $375/gal
The records are not as well kept as should be, but I think I used a gallon and a quart of base, a gallon of epoxy primer,
a gallon of surfacer, and a gallon (somewhat less) of the clear.
This was a take-to-bare metal, and respray. There wouldn't be a reason to use epoxy over a factory paint I don't think.
Probably just sealer/surfacer. The paint supplier would recommend.
I would like to do it again, but not in my garage. A paint booth, with all the accessories would make for
a completely different experience.
Dennis