Bodywork, Paint, Interior, Trim, & Wiring

This winter's big project is to complete the installation of AC in my roadster. Since the condenser, lines and compressor had already been installed this means the evaporator unit. But I wasn't satisfied with what's presently available, I want a system that will make a real difference and don't see any reason why I can't have that. I decided to build the inside unit from scratch. So after some research I bought an evaporator and TXV for a Volkswagon Vanagon as it was the largest that had a chance of fitting behind the dashboard.

The next step which I began a couple days ago was to remove the dashboard, get all the wires and stuff out of the way and do a test fit. As the photo shows it's a bit tight. I've done a bit of trimming on the end brackets and helped that situation a good bit but the wiper assembly limits how far it will recess into the dash. A bit more work to do there apparently.



The real question is how much I'm willing to compromise the dashboard to get the unit in there and the answer is quite a lot actually. Because I have large door pockets, losing the glove box would not be a hardship, or it might end up being shallow. The depth of the speedo will determine how far out the dash will have to be moved, probably 2-3 inches. And I won't be able to keep all the gages or the inside adjustment for the brake balance probably. But if I'm cool I think I can live with that.

Jim

Wow! that's a lot of evap for a little 2 seater. I applaud your willingness to go for it Jim.
A GPS speedo is very shallow and would buy you that 2 or so inches. I have an unbranded Speedway 5 inch unit in my hand, it's only 1 1/2 inches from the dash face to the back of the housing.
But what about mounting the evap and fan etc. behind the seats or even in the trunk and venting them as needed?
Did that in "Steve" my 72 3 door Suburban. I used a 12000 btu window shaker. Took it apart and reconfigured it to fit under the rear seat. It's vented through the floor for the condenser. And cold air runs through oval tubes up to the heater plenum up front. I wanted the engine bay to be clean so it's run by an inverter. Also under the seat.
Works awesome! Cools Steve down immediately and can run with the truck parked.

Cheers
Fred

Thanks for the suggestions Fred and I've thought about those alternative configurations. I trimmed off the end brackets and got a little more recess but the Jag speedo is a good 3-1/2" deep. However it works well, is 150 scale, and matches the other gages. Still, picking up a couple inches would make a big difference. I will be test fitting the old dash later today to see what issues moving it causes. The fit of the evap is very tight but there is just enough room.

Jim

Here's how it looks with the dash roughly in position. Actually much better than I expected.





Jim

That'll take care of that nasty gauge overheating problem! ;-)

My thoughts exactly.
I'll be ditching some of the gages in favor of AC dash vents, the EGT and brake balance for sure, the amp is moving to the lower console with the O2 and the equalized will be moving down with the radio. I will be dividing the dash into two halves or maybe 3, the driver's pod and the other part. Probably use those socket head dzus fasteners for easy access. I have 2 later model dashes to use for parts, so I can go with bullseye vents or the standard late MG vents.

I'm thinking seriously of replacing the Jag speedo with a GPS unit if I can find one that suits me. That might let the dash go in a nearly stock location. But, my speedo has indicators for high beam and CEL. That might be hard to find. Also If I'm going to GPS I would really like to have one that shows the local speed limit. Or I can also go with a VSS type. These are the early larger gages that fit a 3-7/8" hole. Apparently Speedhut does not make one that size and neither does Ealing or Autometer. If anyone is aware of one please post it since any MGB up to '68 has to have that size.

Jim