distributorless ignition on 4.6Lrover v8
I am converting my 3.5l Triumph Tr7v8 to a 4.6l Rover V8. I will be using a Holley 470 4bbl carburettor on edelbrock performer manifold. I intend to keep the serpentine drive and no distributor (the engine has no dizzi drive). Does anyone have ay suggestions for converting to a standalone ignition system like megajolt, pictures advise ideas on how to do that? I know Triggerwheels in the UK sell a system but I would like to see what else is out there?
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DiDueColpi Fred Key West coast - Canada (1386 posts) Registered: 05/14/2010 03:06AM Main British Car: I really thought that I'd be an action figure by now! |
Re: distributorless ignition on 4.6Lrover v8
Lots of variety available out there Stefan.
MSD offers a simple, rugged set up intended for the LS engines. But it is adaptable to almost anything. A little looksee on the world wide interweb should turn up tons. Live like you mean it Fred |
BlownMGB-V8 Jim Blackwood 9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042 (6516 posts) Registered: 10/23/2007 12:59PM Main British Car: 1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS |
Re: distributorless ignition on 4.6Lrover v8
I've installed several EDIS systems including a few BOPR's and it's pretty easy, very reliable, and not unduly expensive. The Ford EDIS is modular, junkyard parts work fine, and the two biggest issues are wiring the harness (the Ford connector pins can be hard to find new) and providing a timing advance signal which has to come from another source. I've used MegaSquirt and MegaJolt for the latter. Both work fine but MegaSquirt is the better option. However we used MJ on the MG-Roadmaster and it works. It was a little tricky setting it up to also control the dual radiator fans. The details are in the Roadmaster thread on BritishV8.org, pretty close to the end. The issue was that the fans wanted to come on when the ignition was turned off and I eventually solved that by killing all power to the system iirc. The fans do not run with the ignition turned off. (I like that better anyway, less risk of running down the battery)
For the trigger wheel I now prefer to drill the trigger pattern in the pulley that gets bollted to the damper. I like to mount the VR sensor where the mechanical fuel pump formerly went on the timing case. There are lots of other ways to do this, but I've found that a 1/4" diameter hole size is sufficient to get good results from the VR sensor. The larger the pulley is of course the larger the holes can be. The pulley is plenty strong with the metal that remains between the holes. This operation is best done with a dividing head and drill press but other methods can also work fine. Jim |