Engine and Transmission Tech

MY MGBGT V8 (clone) started having a ticking sound on start up that went away after about 30 seconds. It’s a stroked 215 now at 266ci. It ran great but seemed lacking on low end grunt. In other words, it didn't threaten to break the tires loose. I did a compression test and cylinder 4 has 50 lbs. the others were all between 135 and 150 which is acceptable. I got a cheap endoscope on Amazon and looks like a lot of carbon and some scoring in #4. I added a little oil to the spark plug hole and the compression went to 175 lbs. Ring failure is assumed. Taking the engine out for the first time, I’ve had the car for about 5 yrs and it’s been fun , but many issues have had to be addressed. We’re counting on some help from wiser mechanics here, I know enough to be dangerous. Any comments are appreciated. The car can be viewed if you search Wayne Rippys 1974.5 MGBGT V8. Trying to attach photos, may have to resize them first.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/26/2025 09:42PM by Gswest236.

Scott, Follow Jon's build on MGExperience site. We're in Sequim about an hour and a half from you!

[www.mgexp.com]



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/25/2025 10:58AM by mgb260.

Will do , Thanks

I read through Jon’s build and found it very useful! My first objective is to get the engine out. Ive read some post on that topic alone and am prepared for a bit of struggle. The 2 top bolts on the bell housing look to be accessible where as the article i read mentioned those bolts as being a pain. I’m wondering if the guys who did this build in 2009 placed the motor so as to leave access to the top bolts? I’m curious if you have any tricks to getting the motor out without the tranny? I’ve got an engine hoist and am getting close to attempting the removal. I have a transmission jack and the car is on jack stands. I’m not an engine builder but can get the motor to one once it’s out. Is there a machine shop that you recommend that can do the rebuild? The motor ran great, no skips, overheating, no hard starting and sounded great. So, the ring failure (assuming it is that) surprised me. But i was thinking it was down on power. It should be in the 260 HP range and that car is light so that 260 hp should have shredded the tires and it didnt hint of that.
Thanks for the help
Scott

Scott, Many jack up the front and I find it is easier to pull engine with transmission. EDIT: rear end The Machine shop Jon used in Olympia is who I recommend. Keep us posted here.

[www.johnsonsmachine.net]



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/27/2025 12:16PM by mgb260.

Do you mean jack the front of the car so it’s tilted upward or jacking the engine at an upward angle?
I’ll reach out to the machine shop in Olympia once the engine is out.
I appreciate your input!

If your car is on jack stands you will have plenty of clearance.

If the car weren't already on jackstands, you'd probably find it necessary to jack up the front of the car. You or your helper will press downward on the tail of the transmission, thereby tilting the whole assembly relative the car's body. It's definitely much easier with helpers.

Once you get it out, I'd suggest you should take it apart yourself. If you haven't done that before, I think you'll find it fun and rewarding. Doesn't take any specialized tools... well, maybe a ridge reamer? You'll know sooner what went wrong. If you clean the parts up real nice, the machine shop will be able to give you a more accurate estimate and it'll be lower because there will be less labor and less doubt. Specs from Wayne's HIWD article such as the piston part#'s might be helpful to your machine shop's estimate too.

I remember meeting Wayne and photographing that car. It's a beauty!

circa 2009:




Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/25/2025 08:33PM by Moderator.

Wow! You met Wayne, holly crap. I bought it from a lawyer from San Diego on BAT. He directed me to the Wayne Rippy article here. Your in Portland, I bought a aftermarket hood and took it to a great shop there that louvered the hood for me. Had vapor lock issues then and the new hood and several other fixes solved it.
Thanks for the tip!!

So you think i should do the disassembly on the motor. Maybe I will once it’s out. My original plan was to get it down to the block with the heads attached and deliver that to the shop. I know taking it apart is easier than reassembling it (correctly) So maybe I’ll tackle it.I appreciate the help.

We had the machine shop skim the block deck and heads, new soft plugs and cam bearings including TA back grooved front cam bearing. New bronze valve guide liners and Viton seals, three angle valve job, Comp cams 11 degree retainers and LT1 SBC springs on the heads. Delta Cams reground the cam and lifters. Custom Crank ground the crank, both are in Tacoma. We are doing the oil mods and all assembly ourselves.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/26/2025 10:27AM by mgb260.

260hp is a bit optimistic I'm afraid, you are far more likely to be in the ballpark of 200 in fully streetable trim. 260 will likely require an elevated redline, aggressive cam and better intake system. You can get there with more cubic inches though in various ways up to and including the 300 build (which is a better engine anyway). A 4.6L Rover engine is a decent option also and will match your bellhousing. As you know the 215 can be stroked to 266 (4.4L) and some 5 L Rovers have been built and even used in production (TVR). The 300 goes to 340/350 (5.6/5.7L) depending on overbore. It weighs 80lbs more but is cheaper and more durable. The weight is not an issue.

Jim

Jack up the front to pull an engine in an MGB?! I have never done that.

Jack up the rear & leave the front on the ground.

Jim B, his motor is already stroked with the 300 crank. With his cam he may have 260HP at the flywheel and 220HP at the wheels. Carl, I think you are right but he should have plenty of room if on jack stands.

Jon also had the machine shop do all threads with helicoils and one failed helicoil with an insert.

I’m going to proceed with disconnecting the drive shaft, get a transmission jack under the tranny. Remove the crossmember. And then see what else has to come off. Ive got the photo resizer working finally.

Scott, progress!