Steering, Suspension, & Brakes

Other than Corvette,(too bulky), I'm looking to save unspring weight. I also want bolt on steering arms. Anybody ? Thanks

Probably the best way to reduce unsprung weight on an MGB is to go to lighter brakes. I don't remember the weight of the various brake components but someone might. It's a substantial amount. By going to an aluminum caliper (Weldwood, Outlaw, Brembo, etc.) you can drop 5 lbs a side IIRC. Similar results with a ventilated rotor and hat setup, some of those Speedway rotors weigh as little as 6 or 7 lbs and an aluminum hat is 1lb. Serious weight reductions of nearly 25lbs a side are possible. (might require an aluminum hub as well)

Then you address wheel weight and also tire weight. After all that the weight of suspension components MAY come into play. Bear in mind it's a small fraction of the whole and most of the components are calculated at 50% due to the stationary pivot points. Upper arms serve double duty as well. Reductions here may not be nearly as much as you expect or nearly as effective.

Jim

If this question had been asked 10 or 12 years ago, I would've recommended sticking with MGB uprights but having them dropped by either Dick Luening (Killer Beez Racing) or Dave Headley (Fab-Tek.) Either way, the point wasn't to reduce weight but rather to correct a too-low front roll center side-effect of reduced spring height.

The advantage of Dick's version of "dropped spindles" was that he retained the stock weather shields and didn't modify the kingpin at all. (Surely the better solution for a street car you're hoping to drive a looong time.) The advantage of Dave's version was that he increased the overall height of each kingpin one inch to add camber gain. (Surely the better solution for competitive racing.) Either way, cost was about $500/set, and you retained bolt-on steering arms. However, upon installation you'd discover that the steering arm forgings needed to be heated-up and bent significantly to correct bump steer. (Dick did that for me for no extra charge. Worked perfectly.) Unfortunately, both of these gentlemen have passed away and I'm unaware of anyone stepping in to offer similar components.

In addition to the lighter brake options mentioned by Jim, aluminum hubs used to be available for MGB in lieu of the stock iron ones. Bill Guzman (Classic Conversions Engineering) offered them for a while. I didn't order a set quickly enough! I don't know if anyone else has offered them... but they should be straightforward for any competant machine shop. I also don't recall the weight savings of Bill's hubs, but it was significant!

Changing out the uprights to something more modern (i.e. without kingpins) seems like great idea, but it's sure to lead to scope creep, isn't it? I reckon anyone who starts that project is going to end up with an entirely custom front suspension. Or an aftermarket one. There are articles on this website describing in detail the features of the Fast Cars, CCE, Hoyle, and RV8 front suspensions. The Fast Cars option would probably have been most attractive to me if I'd been looking to widen track and fit fender flares and +2 wheels/tires.

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Unfortunately, both of these gentlemen have passed away and I'm unaware of anyone stepping in to offer similar components.

I read a few months ago that Dick Luening's two sons are continuing the business.

Cole, If you decide to go Full Monte, on the front suspension, how much time and $'s ? Many aluminum/light weight, OEM parts
are available now. Mazda RX 7 even had aluminum hubs. As mentioned usual 50% weight factor for A arms and springs/shocks.
FWIW, GM F body spindles are readily available with bolt-on steering arms.
Good Luck, Art.