Main British Car:
1972 TR6 1994 5.7 L GM LT1
Ken Hiebert's 1965 Jaguar E-Type with GM LS1 V8, "Part 6"
Posted by: TR6-6SPD
Date: March 20, 2018 02:35PM
Here is a link to "Part 1" of the project:
Here is a link to "Part 2" of the project:
Here is a link to "Part 3" of the project:
Here is a link to "Part 4" of the project:
Here is a link to "Part 5" of the project:
Please note: The photos in this thread are displayed at 600x450 pixels. If you see a little box-in-a-box logo in the upper right hand corner of the photo, click anywhere on the photo to blow it up to full size - in a new window. This new window can then be maximized for a still larger image.
Reflecting back on this project, I went through my collection of photos and put together these two collages:
I've come a long ways but still have far to go. I'm determined.
Carrying on from Part #5 of this journal, I welded the Support Member into the Valance or belly pan. This entailed many plug welds on the bottom:
Fabricated four angle brackets per side to make attachment to the curved section. The best I could do with my tools and time.
I could now do a final session of hammer and dolly work on this piece as well as using the shrinking disc where needed. The hammer and dolly lets you moves metal but if it has been stretched, you have to shrink it back to size. Here's a short clip. You can see the steam coming off the hot metal:
A better demo video:
Bonnet Hinge Brackets
Connecting the bonnet hinge support tube meant coming off the front frame rails with 2X2" square tubing. I came in low to get around the radiator and create a bit of a skid plate.
Parts cut and collected:
Being a critical item, I added fish plates on the inside of the weld joint. These are plug welded each side:
Looking from the inside, good penetration:
Pair completed. Checked their weight. 39 ounces each:
With the car on the chassis table, I went from the center line and level to locate them:
With valance installed:
Left Front Fender
I had some changes and repairs to do here. One was to fill in the original turn signal opening, (I have other plans). The other was typical rust damage repair to the corner.
Original turn signal opening:
Rust hole area cut out:
Right Front Fender
The repairs on the right side fender were more extensive. Not only did I need to fill the signal light opening, but there was rust through where the flanges for the inner panels had attached to the inside surface.
Previous repair done with a patch brazed in just behind headlight opening:
One more rust through below the previous as well as the usual corner area:
Bonnet Center Section
The nose area of the bonnet center section was the worst. It had a lot of poorly repaired collision damage. I counted 37 holes that had been drilled to try and pull the metal back into shape. There were a couple of long, deep creases. Daunting task.
My assistant, modelling with the bonnet:
In an exploratory effort, I knocked off some of the bondo. Scary:
One of the creases after chemical dip:
Spent many hours in the garage with the heat on, February and March, using a hammer and dolly to bring things back into shape:
More shrinking disc work and slapper with dolly:
Rear Brace repair
The profile of the Bonnet Center Section's rear edge needs to match the profile of the scuttle. Mine didn't. There's a brace welded in that area to hold the shape and it appears mine was damaged from a heavy weight above, collapsing it down. I couldn't figure out a way to reshape it in situ, removing the brace entirely from the center section skin would be way too much work so I elected to remove just the damaged area, reshape it then weld it back in.
Damaged section cut out:
Cleaned up and reshaped:
Splice to make butt weld stronger:
Used a cardboard pattern of the scuttle profile to confirm a match to the new bonnet profile:
Butt welded the brace and plug welded to the skin. Finished:
Scuttle Closer Panel
This area of the body tub can be called the scuttle, cowl or bulkhead. I prefer the former. In any case, it had completely rusted away, both sides. Recreating the curvature would be the tricky part as it has to match the rear edge of the bonnet wing. That's why I'm tackling this job now, is because I need something to line the bonnet up to.
Right side damage:
Captive nut assembly rust out:
Left side prepared:
Right side finished:
Left side finished:
Shaping the Bonnet Mouth
Normally, the front bumpers and Motif Bar would hide any misalignment between the valance and the center section that creates the "mouth" of the bonnet. But since I was not using this hardware, I needed to get these connection points to match up.
On first fit up, the shape was bad. The curvature was wrong and they didn't meet up properly. Time to get out the cutting wheel and welder.
Since space in the garage is at a premium, I set myself up between the two cars:
Right side had two problems. The upper section was too far outward and the lower section's curvature was radiused too tight:
First job was to slice the edge and lift the curve to match the left side. Cut, lift and fill the gap:
The top section was sliced and swung down and inward to connect with the lower valance. Fill the gap again:
The left side lower section was in good condition. The upper portion was too far outward:
Again, this required a slice, then a filler piece with some pie cuts to bring the curve inward:
I made up a grid board to measure off the curves from center and horizontal to confirm symmetry. Trimmed the inside mouth area to make it the same all around. Metal work done:
Radiator w/fans and A/C Condenser
I wanted to start on the splash panels inside the bonnet but need to know where the radiator will go first. Time to get that assembly in.
I went with a Spal dual fan assembly. This was too narrow for my radiator so I split it down the middle, added a filler strip then riveted the two halves to a 1"X1" aluminum frame work:
The vertical square tubes of the frame work slip over two studs I welded to the chassis:
My radiator is a 31" x 21" Afco double pass:
At the bottom are rubber pads that fit in the C channel of the rad with isolators:
Radiator in place:
The A/C condenser mounts to a welded aluminum frame work that will also support the splash panels:
This frame bolts to two stands welded to the bonnet hinge support tubes:
Bonnet openers, Gas Shocks
The original Jaguar bonnet openers consisted of a heavy spring assembly that I'm told, never worked all that well, letting the bonnet come crashing down on your head.
They make a gas shock retrofit now but of course, it wasn't close to what I needed.
I had a couple of used hood shocks from a Nissan 240SX that I played around with and with some cardboard cut-outs, came up with a configuration that seemed geometrically feasible. Thinking two shocks wouldn't be sufficient, I made allowances for four.
Bracket to mount on bonnet valance:
Bracket to mount on chassis:
Gas Shocks mounted.
The pair on the top are used with a 56 lb. rating
The pair on the bottom are new with a 34 lb. rating
This combination gave the best balance.
Added an angle support:
Here's a video of the before and after. Before, I was using a rope and pully system to lift from a center point because of the flex in the bonnet.
With the gas shocks, there's a nice balance and I'm hoping I have the correct clearance to road surface.
Inner Fender Wells
With the radiator and fans mounted, I could now work on the inner fender wells. Like everything else on this car forward of the firewall, none of the original Jaguar components fit so I'll have to fabricate my own.
The radiator is Big, big and Wide. So are the tires. My steering is limited by the width of the radiator since the front edge of the tire hits the radiator tank. I therefore needed to keep the inner fender tight to the tank..
The fender wells have two parts, top and bottom. The top half is attached to the underside of the bonnet. The two obviously must mate with some kind of a weather seal.
Front tire mounted:
I'm using 1/16' sheet aluminum for the fender wells and 1" X 1/8" aluminum flat bar as a framework.
Cut, welded and bent framework:
Mounts welded in for framework:
Now all I have to do is fill it in. Both sides.
As usual, I made a CAD design first, patterns to be cut from 1/16" sheet aluminum:
4' X 8' sheet. I'll probably use it all. Best cut on the floor:
Multiple angles and cuts:
I made one side in three pieces, the front two welded to each other. These are the front two:
The rear piece I designed to be removable from inside the wheel well. I have plans for that.
Finished up the right side. Goes much easier with a proven plan and patterns to work from:
Testing. This is where the tire ends up at full turn, ride height:
With the suspension at full jounce and full turn, the tire touches the upper angled portion of the inner fender, as planned:
After finalizing the shape of the front fenders, it meant I could move back to the rear fenders. I wanted to keep a similar profile.
The original fenders had a right angle bend at the contour. I decided to form a 1/4" rod to the shape I wanted then build off of that.
As a starting point, I anchored the rod at the back of the wheel well in a temporary device:
Bringing the rod out level and perpendicular to the car, I shaped it up and around the tire allowing clearance at ride height. Extending the 1/4" rod:
I attached a template to the wheel at ride height, centered and level, representing the upper portion of the fender profile I wanted:
Foam taped to the tire gave me my tire/fender clearance:
Happy with the right side, I needed to duplicate the shape for the left. Setting up the right side on the work bench, I used two templates and measurements to form the reverse shape:
Finished both sides:
Thanks for looking.
Here's a link to "Part 7" of the project:
Edited 17 time(s). Last edit at 04/04/2019 01:13PM by TR6-6SPD.