Main British Car:
1972 TR6 1994 5.7 L GM LT1
Ken Hiebert's 1965 Jaguar E-Type with GM LS1 V8, "Part 6"
Posted by: TR6-6SPD
Date: March 20, 2018 02:35PM
Here is a link to "Part 1" of the project:
Here is a link to "Part 2" of the project:
Here is a link to "Part 3" of the project:
Here is a link to "Part 4" of the project:
Here is a link to "Part 5" of the project:
Please note: The photos in this thread are displayed at 600x450 pixels. If you see a little box-in-a-box logo in the upper right hand corner of the photo, click anywhere on the photo to blow it up to full size - in a new window. This new window can then be maximized for a still larger image.
Reflecting back on this project, I went through my collection of photos and put together these two collages:
I've come a long ways but still have far to go. I'm determined.
Carrying on from Part #5 of this journal, I welded the Support Member into the Valance or belly pan. This entailed many plug welds on the bottom:
Fabricated four angle brackets per side to make attachment to the curved section. The best I could do with my tools and time.
I could now do a final session of hammer and dolly work on this piece as well as using the shrinking disc where needed. The hammer and dolly lets you moves metal but if it has been stretched, you have to shrink it back to size. Here's a short clip. You can see the steam coming off the hot metal:
A better demo video:
Bonnet Hinge Brackets
Connecting the bonnet hinge support tube meant coming off the front frame rails with 2X2" square tubing. I came in low to get around the radiator and create a bit of a skid plate.
Parts cut and collected:
Being a critical item, I added fish plates on the inside of the weld joint. These are plug welded each side:
Looking from the inside, good penetration:
Pair completed. Checked their weight. 39 ounces each:
With the car on the chassis table, I went from the center line and level to locate them:
With valance installed:
Left Front Fender
I had some changes and repairs to do here. One was to fill in the original turn signal opening, (I have other plans). The other was typical rust damage repair to the corner.
Original turn signal opening:
Rust hole area cut out:
Right Front Fender
The repairs on the right side fender were more extensive. Not only did I need to fill the signal light opening, but there was rust through where the flanges for the inner panels had attached to the inside surface.
Previous repair done with a patch brazed in just behind headlight opening:
One more rust through below the previous as well as the usual corner area:
Bonnet Center Section
The nose area of the bonnet center section was the worst. It had a lot of poorly repaired collision damage. I counted 37 holes that had been drilled to try and pull the metal back into shape. There were a couple of long, deep creases. Daunting task.
My assistant, modelling with the bonnet:
In an exploratory effort, I knocked off some of the bondo. Scary:
One of the creases after chemical dip:
Spent many hours in the garage with the heat on, February and March, using a hammer and dolly to bring things back into shape:
More shrinking disc work and slapper with dolly:
Rear Brace repair
The profile of the Bonnet Center Section's rear edge needs to match the profile of the scuttle. Mine didn't. There's a brace welded in that area to hold the shape and it appears mine was damaged from a heavy weight above, collapsing it down. I couldn't figure out a way to reshape it in situ, removing the brace entirely from the center section skin would be way too much work so I elected to remove just the damaged area, reshape it then weld it back in.
Damaged section cut out:
Cleaned up and reshaped:
Splice to make butt weld stronger:
Used a cardboard pattern of the scuttle profile to confirm a match to the new bonnet profile:
Butt welded the brace and plug welded to the skin. Finished:
Scuttle Closer Panel
This area of the body tub can be called the scuttle, cowl or bulkhead. I prefer the former. In any case, it had completely rusted away, both sides. Recreating the curvature would be the tricky part as it has to match the rear edge of the bonnet wing. That's why I'm tackling this job now, is because I need something to line the bonnet up to.
Right side damage:
Captive nut assembly rust out:
Left side prepared:
Right side finished:
Left side finished:
Edited 8 time(s). Last edit at 05/16/2018 09:35AM by TR6-6SPD.