MG Sports Cars

Hey guys, any pictures of the brackets and the alternators on your rover or buick 215 conversions? I have a buck 215 with rover sd1 heads, i have a rover p5/6 alternator bracket (just like the origional alternator bracket) I have a 78 camaro delco alternator that i was going to use but the mounting feet do not line up for the bracket. I read somewhere that a mercury capri alternator will bolt right up? I am not sure what years so i want to see what everyone else is running. thanks
Randy

P.S. I will be running the rover efi

Here's mine: (Nippondenso alternator.)



The photo gallery has many more...



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/20/2017 12:01PM by MGBV8.

Hey Curtiss, that looks great, whats the application for that alternator? How about the brackets? Where did you get them? Ive tried checking the gallery and unfortunately i cant make out most of the setups and brackets in the pics. thanks
Randy

Randy, I have a 302 but use a GM 3 wire alternator (because I already had one) mounted on the driver’s side so I can mount the ac compressor on the passenger side in the future and not run hoses across the motor. I needed a 6.75” mount bolt, which isn’t all that available, to mount the alternator to the head so I used grade 8 threaded rod as a stud (also on most other external engine bolts) and brackets are pretty easy to fabricate. Hope the pictures help with ideas.

PS: I thought it looked kinda cool but was told by my grandson the bungee cord won’t hold up :-) so I replaced it with a belt.


Hey Curtis, I really like the air inlet on your carb; did you make it or can one be ordered?

Paul your grandson's advice was right, I think the noise from the hooks going around the pulleys would get annoying after awhile.

Randy, those Japanese alternators are a good choice, small and easy to mount. But usually they need the sense wire to be switched off to prevent draining the battery. A small relay will do the trick. (see the Roadmaster thread)

JB

Elaborating on mine...

a) the black bracket is just 1/8" cold-rolled mild steel, cut with a saber saw and bent two places in a bench vise. Plenty strong.

b) the shiny "banana" is 3/8" aluminum, flat, cut with a saber saw.

(Material for both brackets snagged from a scrap bin at work.)

c) obviously the alternator pulley needs to be in the same plane as the other pulleys. To make that work out, a few flat washers were needed.

d) I chose the Nippondenso alternator because it was free and lightweight... As I recall, it was on a Chevy Sprint, and those little econo-boxes were powered by 3cyl Suzuki engines. The Chevy Sprint came out before the Geo brand, right? I expect it to last a loooong time, but if I ever need a new alternator I'll look for something similar from the pick-n-pull.



e) the black cobra-head above my carb is one-of-a-kind. It was made by an old friend named Ashley Dudding. He's really good with an oxy-acetylene torch, and he did a lot of welding on my car back in the day. I made the other half of the induction system - the aluminum part that sandwiches a panel air filter up against the firewall. Both parts came together simultaneously over two evenings. We would compete to see who could make cooler parts. (I think Ashley won this round, especially since I had to outsource the TIG welding on my filter housing...) The blue silicone hose that connects the two halves is a Peterbilt part that was laying around the office. Both of our parts (i.e. the cobra-head and the air filter housing) utilized hoops cut from charge air cooler plumbing from old trucks (aluminum and steel pieces respectively, of course.)

A few of the racecars I've featured lately have simple home-made alternator bracketry.

This week's article: Harry's MG Midget Racecar

Hi Randy:
I'm using a Nippondenso alternator similar to Curtis's, mine came from a Kubota tractor. Some pics of the install attached. The mounting bracket uses two lugs on the Rover block. The adjusting rod is bored on the end closest to the engine with a stud attached to the engine and machined to insert in the bored end of the rod and a threaded rod on the other end with a locking nut. The machined flat accepts a 9/16" wrench for adjusting.

That's quite a neat trick on the adjuster Phil.

I like to use a 1" diameter standoff threaded into a boss on the head and the right length to bolt right to the alternator on the other end.

JB

This is Off Topic a bit but, I think those small V6 conversions should use the mini-aternators too. It looks funny for a small motor to have a giant alternator. I plan on the Kubota one also. Lots on EBay cheap. Mini-starters too.

There is one that is just a little larger than the Kubota which puts out a ton of amperage if you need it.

JB

I'm with you guys, I use the Nippondenso 50 amp unit on my TD. The thing is very small and does the job just fine and the price is right. I made my own brackets and believe most people on this site could do the same.