MG Sports Cars

Thanks for the input... I think i'm going to go with a simple drop base air cleaner. Since I don't have it yet and about to install the choke cable for my carb, am I likely to run into clearance problems with the mechanical choke? Would an electric choke carb be a better choice? I can switch carbs; if I should I'd like to do that before I drill holes for the choke cable.

A typical drop base cleaner has a 1.2" drop from the mounting flange to the underside of the base. Either manual or electric choke will clear as the base has clearance depressions stamped into it.
I've had limited success with electric choke consistency and prefer the manual - if set up correctly, you'll get consistent starts and have control over choking operation during warmup.

re: I've had limited success with electric choke consistency

that's exectly why I got the manual choke one. I only drove a couple of electric choke cars & neither ever seemed to actually work right. my manual choke was always worked.

I found that the choke plate can hit the inside top of an air cleaner with a drop base. This may be why some electric chokes seem inconsistent. I removed the choke plate, but kept the electric fast idle function. This accomplishes about 90% of what the choike accomplishes. It also allows the choke horn to be removed to get beter aiir flow under the low air cleaner top.

We will have an R-V8 bolt on hood at the British V8 show in Indy, you can measure to see if it clears.
Dave Craddock

Hey Rob, That performer Rpm Airgap is a great manifold. You can easily mill the carb mount flange down another half inch.
You may even want to angle mill it to tip the front of the air cleaner down some. The Edelbrock/Carter AFB carb is shorter than the Holley and the good old thermoquad is shorter still. Use a 14" x 3" air filter housing with a good 14" x 2" element and gain another inch of room. The early points distributors are the shortest. You can buy another 1/2 inch on the electronic ones by cutting the wire towers down to the metal inserts, or convert them to the point style cap and rotor with some minor lathe work. Lastly remote air filters work great and some really nice low profile carb hats are available from the turbo guys.
Cheers
Fred

I ended up using the air gap manifold, a 14" 1.5" drop base on the bottom & a finned top (added about 1/4" of height but looks good), 2" filter, edelbrock carb & a 1/2" spacer btwn carb & drop base. That combination clears my stock hood by 3/8" at the front. Could of course use a 1" drop base & eliminate the spacer, but I'd already bought the 1.5" drop & spacer was less expensive than return shipping & restocking fee.