MG Sports Cars

I should apologize I guess, I got alittle miffed with all this concern about what should never have been an issue in the first place, while we ignored the crankcase venting issue almost entirely. To me that is a much more important concern. The wiring works. And even if it didn't Rob's fix would cure it. But the crankcase venting is almost certainly the source of the high oil consumption, and a remedy needs to be tried before winter.

There have been suggestions to partially tear down the engine and if we did that it would have to be during the cold months. But I hope nobody is expecting me to be involved in that unless we have first proven that the engine isn't sucking the oil down the carburator, because until we do we are just as likely to still have the problem afterwards and it would be a lot of wasted effort for nothing. If someone else wants to do that, fine. Just don't expect me to do it.

I have extensively researched engine ventilation, written articles on the topic, cured real world oil consumption problems by using proper ventilation tecniques, AND traced BBB oil consumption problems directly to inadequate separation of oil from vapors coming from the lifter valley through the pcv plumbing. Well guess what, we have inadequate plumbing. So I found two flame arresters/oil separators on ebay for under twenty bucks that should have plugged right into the grommet and the hose and which should have cured the problem once and for all. But here we are getting ready for another long trip with plans afoot to buy a quart of oil every 150 miles. My math may not be that good but I think the separator is the cheaper option.

Jim

I agree Jim, we do need to address the oil consumption issue and the oil seperator would be an inexpensive solution to try. We have 9 days to get it installed before PJ picks up the car, is that doable? Rob? I'll buy the part we need if someone will just point me in the right direction.

I'm happy to install it. Haven't had time to get one but if you find one, have it shipped to me & I'll install it.

[www.ebay.com]
This unit is made for a much smaller engine so flow capacity may be less than desired. However I think it should fit.

[www.ebay.com]
This unit is a universal fit durability of the housing may be questioned.

[www.ebay.com]
Flame trap for Rover V8. Probably a good choice.

There are others and suppliers like Summit, Jegs, etc will carry them as well. Search: flame trap, oil trap, oil separator and flame arrester.

The critical features are a single inlet and a single outlet, in sizes compatible with the manifold grommet and the pcv plumbing to the carb. The pcv valve will need to be retained. It should be oriented vertically if possible.

Jim



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/01/2012 01:07AM by BlownMGB-V8.

I should apologize I guess


Eh, sometimes I'm a little short for certain rides and a little bit slow for certain races.

Just a general sort of thing.
I get a little testy sometimes when it'd be better to just let it go. But I'm still learning at least.

Jim

Uh oh. Look Ma no air bags!

[www.mgexperience.net]

Thanks for the tag, Carl.

Yeah, what's up wid Dat?!? We've had line and valve issues-- now bags? :-(

Any thoughts as to why? Jim? Steve? Rob (who had it last and longest)?

IT's not like it's being constantly inflated and deflated....

M

I've been in touch with PJ and it is still too early to know for sure but there is a pretty good chance the air bag was not centered properly on the top spring centering cup up in the crossmember. My fault as likely as not. The last time I had it apart I do remember not feeling fully confident that the cup had centered. No doubt I should have acted on that.

The way it works is that the crossmember has a centering cup that the top of the spring fits around. The airbag has a 2-1/2" freeze plug that is drilled and bolted open end up to the top of the bag. That cup then slips easily into the spring centering cup and centers the top of the airbag. However the freeze plugs come in different heights and that may be one of the shorter ones. Regardless, if the two cups do not nest, the one will sit on the lip of the other and the airbag will shift ( probably outwards) at the top. This would let the bag rub against the crossmember under the bump stop.

I'll look at mine on monday to see if that matches the wear pattern on the photo PJ took.

Steve had some wear on one of his but his crossmember had been bent in a past collision. We subsequently took a bfh to it in order to get clearance but there should not be a problem with an undamaged crossmember.

Jim

Just talked with PJ. Repair is complete. He's going to grab some lunch and hit the road. David, if you're out there, thanks again for handling receipt of the Fed-Ex and courrier service! You saved the day!

Shoppe in Carthage...


David from Shreveport (must be a little shy)

Jim, from what I could see, not being centered is the likely cause. Both bags , are now centered. We did an inspetion of the drivers side and would have replaced both if there was any sign of rubbing on that side. There is none. Both side looked good after the repair. It did take two trips to the NAPA store to get the air supply line fitted, but no leaks now. Held 85 psi for 310 miles and 7 hours.

Just a few little observations for future drivers:

1) need a GPS with speedometer feature or speedometer app for your smart phone until the Stewart Warner speedometer is calibrated. Indicated 40 mph on the dash is about 70 mph. I drove 310 miles today the odometer shows 151.
2) since the odometer is off and the gas gauge is wonky care must be take to refuel within 150 miles of last fill-up, will need a quart of 20W-30 Casterol every 150 miles
3) There is some shake between 62 mph and 68 mph possible wheel balance??
4) Headlights aimed too low can only see about 3 car lengths, I ran with high beams tonight and that did not seem to bother any other drivers, but still not good.
5) Tach is eratic at 70 mph it varies between 2000 & 3000 rpms.

PJ

PJ...be sure to write all of this down in the Roadmaster Logbook. See you in a few hours!

One thing you can do is add pressure to the air bags at night to aim the lights higher. Steve felt that worked rather well.

Steve has also identified a potential rub spot, Rick it would be great if you and Pete could take a look. There is a thin plate the factory welded on the bottom of the crossmember which ends at about the middle of the spring cavity. Steve found one of these corners was a little too close for comfort and I think this matches the wear pattern in PJ'S photo. The remedy is to grind the edge back for clearance then blend and smooth it. If there is any sighn of contact after you get the car that should hopefully take care of it.

Jim

I'll take a look on tuesday.

When I ran out of gas today on I-57 N Roadmaster was absolutely empty. I hit the gas tank with my knuckles and it sounded dead empty. There is a see thru fuel filter before the carb and it too was empty. And I was only able to put 9.1 gallons in the tank. That's why Iran out. I thought I had at least 2 gallons left. Oh well no problem. It was after that while in stop and go construction traffic ,45 miles up the road, that it was not getting gas to the carb again. But this time I new there was gas in the tank. At that time the car was too hot to be disconnecting fuel lines plus it was not a safe place. Picture narrow lanes cones, barrels, concrete walls hardly enough room to get out of the way of the 18 wheelers.

Roadmaster Now has a new fuel pump. I had to use crimp connectors so next time the car is on a lift it would be good to check them and maybe replace with soldered connections and heat shrink. Didn't have that available in the Hardees parking lot.
From now on I will get gas every 100 miles just to be safe.

PJ

Roadmaster won't start this am. It's getting plenty of gas today there is no spark. Talked to Max.. Used test light from positive side of coil with ignition on, nothing,nada, zilch.
Called rick he is arranging for a trailer. I'm chilling at the Comfort Suites, Mt Vernon, IL.

Gerald if you have some time around 1:00pm + or - we may need a little help loading roadmaster on the trailer.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/13/2012 11:02AM by lawnvett.

Any luck getting it fired up?

Pretty sure Rick went and got it - towed it the last bit of the trip. Not sure if it was speculation or confirmed but thinking was MSD ignition box died.

There is no power going to the positive post of the coil.

I've not had time to dealve into this.

Mike Moor said he may have a spare MSD6 box I could use to test.

The air suspension is also dropping withing 4 to 6 hours. Thought I had that one isolated, but no.

Again, all it takes is time.