MG Sports Cars

engine swaps and other performance upgrades, plus "factory" and Costello V8s

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BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5657 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: September 15, 2018 01:23PM

Oh, you will love that! I'm surprised you don't already have one. Very surprised. I wonder how I ever got by without mine. But when you are younger getting down on the floor doesn't seem like that big of a thing. And with what they cost these days... I traded services for mine, an old Rotary from a defunct car dealership. Only mistake I made was locating it on a slightly sloping section of the floor, which causes one arm to be slightly higher above the floor than the other one. Makes a difference with low cars.

A clean finish nail I hope. Lockjaw is no joke. I still remember that achey feeling from my youth and you have my sympathy. We used our sisters' tricycles to get around the house until we could limp/hop to get around. Sat on it backwards.

Jim


Jim Stabe
Jim Stabe
San Diego, Ca
(687 posts)

Registered:
02/28/2009 10:01AM

Main British Car:
1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: Jim Stabe
Date: September 16, 2018 02:40AM

The only way I got by when I was building the car was the rotisserie. I built everything on the car using that thing and never had to get on the ground once. After I put fluids in it those days were over. A friend gave me the lift just for removing it and hauling it away. He was replacing it with a 4 post since all he used it for was car storage. It is a rotary also and I had to have one of the motors rewound but that is a small price to pay.


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5657 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: September 16, 2018 09:23PM

My rotary has a single hydraulic pump, and the motor burned up after I had it awhile. I bought a bigger motor off ebay and modded the end plate to mate them up. I did a little heliarc welding on it and now I don't worry about the frequency of starts anymore, there's no way I'll overload it. I can send you a photo or two if you want. It was a real good mod. I plumbed in a 4 way valve and use the same pump to power my hydraulic press. That's a wonderful thing.

Setup was pretty simple, I used 5/8" x 6 or 7" long tapcons to bolt it down and have never had the least issue even with heavy loads (it's the 9000lb version). Just made sure everything was plumb and level. I've even maxed it out with an uneven load trying to warp one of the the sills on my roadster. Overall a great lift and very reliable.

Jim


Jim Stabe
Jim Stabe
San Diego, Ca
(687 posts)

Registered:
02/28/2009 10:01AM

Main British Car:
1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: Jim Stabe
Date: September 16, 2018 09:45PM

Mine has twin acme screws that lift the arms with a motor at the top of each tower. It works well and has circuitry that re-synchs the motors after each use.


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5657 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: September 16, 2018 11:20PM

Yeah, that sounds like a straight replacement is the safe way to go on that. Probably not cheap, might want to check the brushes on the other motor though if it has them.

Jim


Jim Stabe
Jim Stabe
San Diego, Ca
(687 posts)

Registered:
02/28/2009 10:01AM

Main British Car:
1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: Jim Stabe
Date: September 22, 2018 02:34AM

Well, I got under the car today and discovered that all the spaces I was planning to put the brake boosters either do not have enough room to fit in the rear or it leaves the unit too close to the tire in front. My fall back position is to mount them in the trunk on the shelf above the gas tank.

Trunk.JPG

I would prefer not to do that since it takes up room in the trunk and I would have to make 8 penetrations of body work with brake fluid lines and one vacuum line to make it happen and the runs would be much longer. I haven't given up entirely on the original plan but it will require moving some support members to make it happen.


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5657 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: September 22, 2018 09:43AM

What a revoltin' development, right? Sounds like there's little help for me then. I wondered about that. Well, passenger's footwell perhaps? That is usually wasted space. I used the two rear cubbies in the trunk (by the tail lights) for an air compressor and a hydropak, no help there. Might work for you though.

Jim



Jim Stabe
Jim Stabe
San Diego, Ca
(687 posts)

Registered:
02/28/2009 10:01AM

Main British Car:
1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: Jim Stabe
Date: September 22, 2018 11:58AM

I thought about it and I'm willing to do some surgery in the front wheel well to get the booster to fit under the headlight area. I think I can do it by only removing one tubing brace and re-attaching it somewhere else. The plumbing for the front brakes is just too ideal not to: the engine is right there for vacuum , the output can tie into the front brake circuit at the flex hose connection and I only have to run one line through the front of the footwell from the master. The tube I would have to relocate is the one the horn is attached to and you can see from the 2nd picture it supports the outer portion of the front valance. I could possibly move it so it attaches to the upper mounting tube instead of the lower one and still retain the strength.

Horn.JPG

Front valence (5).JPG

The rear booster would fit in the cubby behind the wheel well but would require 3 sheetmetal penetrations, not a huge deal. It would have been much nicer if I could have mounted it under the car somewhere but the chassis members back there are very structural and I wouldn't want to mess with them.

I probably won't do it until the end of October because there are a couple car shows I'm signed up for and I want to make sure the car is drivable to get to them.



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 09/22/2018 12:15PM by Jim Stabe.


ex-tyke
Graham Creswick
Chatham, Ontario, Canada
(1032 posts)

Registered:
10/25/2007 11:17AM

Main British Car:
1976 MGB Ford 302

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: ex-tyke
Date: September 22, 2018 12:21PM

FWIW, my Jag MK2 had the remote servo located partially in the rhs engine bay and partially into the rhs wheel well....a removable cover was located in the well.
Wish I had photos but maybe Bill Guzman could take a photo of his MK2 servo mount.


Jim Stabe
Jim Stabe
San Diego, Ca
(687 posts)

Registered:
02/28/2009 10:01AM

Main British Car:
1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: Jim Stabe
Date: September 22, 2018 12:31PM

I have room in the engine bay to fit both of the boosters but I want to keep that area uncluttered as much as possible.

IMG_0328.jpg


Jim Stabe
Jim Stabe
San Diego, Ca
(687 posts)

Registered:
02/28/2009 10:01AM

Main British Car:
1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: Jim Stabe
Date: September 22, 2018 12:51PM

I may have found another spot for the rear booster. I extended the panel in front of the deck lid forward about 6-7 inches so it covers the area where the batteries used to be and makes for a tidier cockpit opening. That created a cubby behind the passenger seat and another compartment in the center. I could cut a hole in the panel separating the compartments and mount the booster behind the passenger seat with the master cylinder portion sticking through into the center compartment. I was thinking about making a removable panel to cover up the water/methanol tank anyway so I would make it go all the way across. The tee fitting for the rear brakes is directly under the center compartment floor - handy!

Fire extinguisher (2).JPG



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/22/2018 12:52PM by Jim Stabe.


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5657 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: September 22, 2018 02:49PM

Jim, could you take some shots with the booster held approximately in position for some of those locations? A little hard to visualize it.

Jim


Jim Stabe
Jim Stabe
San Diego, Ca
(687 posts)

Registered:
02/28/2009 10:01AM

Main British Car:
1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: Jim Stabe
Date: September 22, 2018 03:09PM

Just getting ready to leave. I'll do it later this afternoon


Jim Stabe
Jim Stabe
San Diego, Ca
(687 posts)

Registered:
02/28/2009 10:01AM

Main British Car:
1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: Jim Stabe
Date: September 22, 2018 07:24PM

I don't have long enough arms to take a really good picture but I think you will get the idea. The booster will go where the horn is in one of the pictures above. The rear one will fit in the cubby behind the passenger seat and get covered with an upholstered panel.

DSC00710.JPG

DSC00712.JPG

DSC00713.JPG


Jim Stabe
Jim Stabe
San Diego, Ca
(687 posts)

Registered:
02/28/2009 10:01AM

Main British Car:
1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: Jim Stabe
Date: September 27, 2018 09:48PM

I went out today and thought about it some more and decided to mount both boosters in front of the front wheels. I will have to move bracing members on both sides but it will give me a few advantages. I will mount the front booster on the passenger side and be able to tie into the front brake circuit at the junction of the hard line and flex line to the right front wheel. This means that I only have to penetrate the front of the passenger footwell with one line from the front master cylinder. The rear booster will mount on the drivers side and will require 2 penetrations of the front of the drivers footwell, one for the master to booster line and one for the booster output that will connect the existing line to the rear brakes. I won't have to do anything to the existing plumbing aft of the instrument panel. Vacuum runs will be much shorter since both boosters will be right next to the engine. I will probably fabricate a vacuum reservoir out of PVC tubing that spans the distance between the two boosters to ensure braking since I have a boosted engine. I will install a one way valve between the engine intake and the reservoir to prevent boost from getting to the reservoir even though the boosters have one way valves built in - belt and suspenders.

I just finished .bolting down my freebie 2 post hoist so I will soon have that operational making the installation much easier on my old bones. I'll start another thread for the installation.



BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5657 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: September 28, 2018 11:16AM

Sounds good Jim. The extra check valve will decrease your vacuum signal, but only by a very small amount, perhaps only a couple inches of vacuum, depending on what you use. Something to be aware of when selecting parts. It will affect your max braking force a little, probably not enough to matter.

Jim


Jim Stabe
Jim Stabe
San Diego, Ca
(687 posts)

Registered:
02/28/2009 10:01AM

Main British Car:
1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: Jim Stabe
Date: September 28, 2018 11:55AM

Why would it decrease the signal? Once the valve is cracked open whatever vacuum level is in the intake will be the same throughout the system. There is no appreciable flow involved so whatever restriction is in the valve shouldn't cause a drop in vacuum.


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5657 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: September 28, 2018 06:36PM

Maybe...
Let's say the spring on the check valve puts 1/2 lb of pressure on the seat. Could be more, could be less. You can measure the amount of vaccuum required to unseat the valve. Certainly something more than zero, call it "x".
Your vacuum then passing the check valve is now the manifold vacuum minus x. Just because the valve opens does not mean it does not restrict the flow and reduce the signal. No different than any other flow system. Now the force required to keep it open could be less than that required to crack it in the first place, that's worth paying attention to also.

Odds are it won't make a difference. But if you picked the wrong check valve it definitely could.

Jim


Jim Stabe
Jim Stabe
San Diego, Ca
(687 posts)

Registered:
02/28/2009 10:01AM

Main British Car:
1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: Jim Stabe
Date: September 28, 2018 07:43PM

Makes sense. If it gives me a problem I'll just remove the redundant check valve.


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5657 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: Adding remote brake booster
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: September 29, 2018 08:42AM

Yeah, just get one with a light spring and high flow and I think you'll be fine. But check, some of them have much heavier springs than they need for this application.

Jim
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