Engine and Transmission Tech

with that bore & stroke I'd end up with Engine Displacement (CC) 5215.4 using the standard liners..I'm thinking of cutting grooves & inserting copper O rings between top of sleeve & block to overcome potential leakage behind sleeve...Does anyone have thoughts on this idea? I have used flanged sleeves in the past, but $$$$$

Art- Road racing & dry sump for sure..Quite a few people here using TA head's too....Not sure on the bodyshell yet...have a partially done TR7, but am beginning to lean more towards MGBGT...MG racing is a very healthy category in Oz...Some TR's, TVR's & others race by invitation in the class, too.

Jukka- Kimi could get Lotus back in a winning position:-)

John

John and clan, I bought "Tsubaki-made in Spain", flanged liners through Wildcat, "Ian". As I understand it, made in Spain, sold to OZ, then Ian and retailed to me. Fortunately, they weren't wore-out in the process/lol. With all the $'s/labor of installing sleeves, I would only use "flanged". If you left approx .002" proud of deck, you'll have suitable o-ring effect, without the hassle. Who is "Byron" and his twin turbo MGB ? Are they "really" making 600 hp as TRS claims, all motor ? Cheers, roverman.

Email from Moldex, they can supply RV8 crank, they have the spec. Time frame c.12 weeks. I last spoke to TA P a couple of weeks ago, they said that their CNC machine was repaired, the new operator had settled in and he was working his way through a couple of rows of 455 heads. Next up would be the Rover heads. I would rather not be in the position where the crank was the last thing I was waiting for. I would ideally like to run the new engine in on the old stage 3 heads and get some torque/bhp figures for comparison. I'll be interested to hear how long Scat would take.

Julian

Whoo very interesting post. I just opened similar post on uk forum to find a compagny to machine my crank.

I have one bare casting crank sourced to LR factory :



Maximun stroke with this crank : 91.5mm

I am looking also for a 94mm stroke crank. There is a small compagny who can cast full counterweight crank for RV8. Cranks can be machined to 94mm stroke without problem.



P.S. Jukka if ever I have one of MCD TVR 500 crank prototype.

Art, do you mean Ian @ TRS supplied the sleeves? I dont know about 600hp, but a friend who races a fairly fairly quick MGBGTV8 was following one of these engines in a private practice session at Phillip Island a week ago. He said it pulled away from him at a huge rate of knots.

Theres a story elsewhere on this website about Byron Listers Turbo project "Biteme". The pictures below show the Moldex crank & a "Halo" bottom end that John Davis in Sydney used to sell, It make 630 hp with 21psi of boost.

I've got a dyno clip somewhere

John

Of"'Wildcat" of Wales,NOT an ENDORSEMENT ! If someone is "bent" on pushing a cast crank.CRYO IT !! They will need all the help possible, to last. A well done 4340 forging should do the job. Light dampener and aluminum flywheel with small dia 2 disc set up. Onward, roverman.

Thanks Art, I guess I'd go straight to TRS now that I have that information. Repco here in OZ used to make flanged sleeves, then spun that part off as ACL, bought by Mahle & not making them anymore....ACL still make great bearings, though. For Buick, Rover & P76 4.4 versions fit the 4.0-4.6....

Julian- I'm interested to hear what Moldex come back with price wise. A friend has a Laystall UK billet in a Rover V8 but I dont think they are in business any more? Gordon Allen was another UK outfit who made nice cranks...Did an MGA stroker some years ago

John

Arts I would not be so septic on cast cranks. They were used with success in race rover v8 cars.

Look Grp A SD1 and TVR Tuscan challenge, both cast cranks and can hold 7000RPM without problem.

I think Auscrank can supply RV8 Billet crank : [www.crankshaftrebuilders.com.au] and may be in UK here : [allencrankshaft.co.uk]

I regularly ran a stock cast Buick 215 crank to 7 grand and it lasted about 20K miles until one of the piston skirts cracked.

Jim

Clan, TA ported heads" should" make max power at 7,500 and beyond, depending on cam, inches, etc. Cast crank, 600 hp and 7,500 + rpm in road racing- good luck ! You'll need it, roverman.

Laystall no longer make cranks, just cylinder liners. Auscrank price suggest they don't want the job. Allen cranks you have to go through the middle man, Racing green and they are not lightweight cranks.

Julian

P.s. John, I've done an extensive search but couldn't find any info on the John Davis halo. Any idea if he still makes them?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/27/2012 01:31PM by jfjfjf2.

Send me a drawing. I have material and waterjet access-no drawing. "Picture of girdle/halo looks strong enough,(if it's 7075 T6 alum.). I feel it needs more oil drainback under rear main and cam drive areas. Thanks, roverman.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/27/2012 08:40PM by roverman.

Julian - [www.davisperformance.com]

Jim - In my experience its the revs & harmonics created by over-run and downshifts on slick tyred race cars that cast cranks dont seem to like.
I've seen 4.6 ones, that have been well prepared,(Tuftrided, internally balanced etc) stand up to severe duty for a period and then let go...Quite spectacularly in some cases. I'm with you as regards street...20,000 miles in a high performance, part time use, car would take me years.

Ian Shugg @ Auscrank is a Rover enthusiast. It was he who told me that Ford cranks could be made fit Rovers some 28 years ago. I plan to use him to do some work on my Bryant crank. Back in the 80's he ground & clearanced a Datsun 180B crank (Nice steel forging) to fit a Lotus 1600. Worked out a fraction of the cost of Allen or Cosworth alternatives. A very clever operator.

Cheers

John

John, Perhaps Mr. Shugg knows of a raw forging or semi-finished L4 crank that will finish machine to fit the Lotus 907 engine,(4.25" bore centers) ? 2.2L cast cranks are silly expensive. Thanks, roverman.

I've PM'ed you on that Art.

I will try & post some shots of the Bryant Ford crank in the next 24

Has anyone got a 340/350 crank working in a Rover block yet? I seem to recall pictures of one partially fitted in a 4.6 block
destined for an Alfa ??

John

John, Might be better to use OZ 4.4L block,(P76) ? I've heard 427 Ford main bearings are best compromise dia. 2.75". #3 will need narrowing. Good Luck, roverman.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/29/2012 11:34AM by roverman.

IMHO., "knife edge" in a wet sump, not good. Dry sump not so critical. I like the leading edge shape on Lunati counterweights, shears oil/windage away from rod areas,(biggest contributors), over radiused surface to main support areas,(more effective scraper areas). While we're at it, lets put scrapers "inside" the pendulum undercut areas of the counterweights. Onward, roverman.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/29/2012 08:49PM by roverman.

I've had a fair bit to do with the Leyland 4.4 over the years......higher deck, 3.5 stroke & 4.6 size mains.

A friend has one in a Elfin formula 5000 that dates back to the 70's...Lucas mechanical injection with huge trumpets looks great.

I think it recently received either Wildcat or TA heads, too.

It has a Laystall crank....4.4 cast item not good enough for that kind of duty

Cheers

John

Terrier truck crank is steel forged.