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Ken Hiebert
Toronto Ontario
(255 posts)

04/23/2008 11:43AM

Main British Car:
1972 TR6 1994 5.7 L GM LT1

authors avatar
Ken Hiebert's 1965 Jaguar E-Type with GM LS1 V8, "Part 9”
Posted by: TR6-6SPD
Date: February 25, 2024 09:33AM

Here is a link to "Part 1" of the project:

Here is a link to "Part 2" of the project:

Here is a link to "Part 3" of the project:

Here is a link to "Part 4" of the project:

Here is a link to "Part 5" of the project:

Here is a link to "Part 6" of the project:

Here is a link to "Part 7" of the project:

Here is a link to "Part 8" of the project:

Please note: The photos in this thread are displayed at 600x450 pixels. If you see a little box-in-a-box logo in the upper right hand corner of the photo, click anywhere on the photo to blow it up to full size - in a new window. This new window can then be maximized for a still larger image.

Interior Panels

Even though the interior of a car is installed after the body work and paint is finished, I wanted to do as much prep work for this as possible. I had some of the original interior panels from the car but they were all in pitiful condition. Besides, with all the changes I’ve done, I would need to fabricate my own anyway. I’m using 1/8” ABS plastic and Au-ve-co trim fasteners.

I had to do some cutting and welding before making the door panel. Previously, I had planned on fabricating my own arm rests, working around the protruding power window motor. I abandoned that plan, set the motor 3/8” into the door framework so it sat flush and I could use the original style E-type arm rest.

The easiest way to fabricate door panel is to tape a sheet of heavy duty clear plastic to the door frame and mark the cutouts and existing mounting holes. You then transfer that to the ABS plastic sheet that has masking tape applied to it, trace the cutouts and center punch the holes. A jig saw does quick work of the plastic. Photos in collage:

Previous to cutting door frame for motor
After cutting
Clear plastic on door frame
Door panel cut

The E-type door panel has a couple of bends in it. I found the safest way to make an accurate bend is to clamp one side to the table and cover the other side, top and bottom, with plate aluminum, leaving only about a 1” strip of ABS exposed. Warm this with a heat gun and you can control where your bend with be.
Bending ABS:

Collection of panels fabricated:

Door panel mounted including release handle, power window switch, speaker, courtesy lamp and arm rest:

Back to the Boot

I had a couple of things to do in the boot to make it more liveable and now was the time to construct.

The first was to make a divider, separating the fuel tank from the spare tire area. Since I had no plans to ever carry a spare tire, this would now be the “trunk”. A divider would help contain things.

Fabricated from 1/16” aluminum:


The other thing I wanted to do, was to provide a hinged hatch to access this trunk area using quick release latches.

Panel hinged and latched:

Quick release latch:


Opened and propped with rod:

Stainless Steel Trim

Jaguar had metal trim on the door panels and what could be called luggage runners in the boot. I received none of these when I got this car. I’ll have to make my own.

I choose 3/8” dia., 0.049 wall, 304 stainless tubing. With a zip saw, I cut it in half, then welded a trimmed 6/32 nut to the inside for mounting purposes. The upper pieces on the door panel had to be mitered to create an angle. Other pieces required a slight bend to follow the panel shape.

To split the tube, I clamped one end in a table vise and secured the other end to the table. Following the marked masking tape, the saw cut went quickly.

Cut setup:

Resulting cut:

6/32 nut tacked in place:

End cap welded and polished:

Luggage runners polished and ready for installation:


The whole job was quite time consuming. The zip cut and welding would distort the thin wall tube and the tack would create a raised section. All that would require a file for leveling and various grades of sandpaper and buffing to gain the look of chrome. A job I wouldn’t want to do full time…

Third Brake Light

A third brake light is always a good idea. I acquired one that doubled with directional lights.

The first job was to fabricate a housing to put it in and add tabs for mounting. The rear hatch door sits at 23 degrees off level in the car, so I set it up on the bench at that angle, then leveled the housing for the light.

Lamp, housing and mounted:

Housing fastened to stand offs, welded to hatch door:

Engine Intake Cover

My original plan was to fabricate a cover to hide the injectors and fuel rail of the engine. Next I would prep and paint the intake manifold. After going through a couple of designs, I decided to go the whole hog and cover it all. I considered using 1/16” aluminum but with all the welds, I decided 20 ga. steel would be within my capabilities. The weight difference calculated to be 1.8 lbs.
Clearance from the top right corner of the cover to the underside of the bonnet turned out to be 3/8”. Tight fit.

Started with a CAD design, then transferred to the metal:

I added two S.S. rails to the sides of the cover:

At the same time, I removed the standoff mounts on the valve covers.



Bonnet to Radiator Seal

The space between the top of the radiator and the bottom side of the bonnet is not overly large, but I thought I should at least make an effort into sealing it off. The sheet metal section splits between left and right and are adjustable up and down.

I’ll attach the closed cell foam to the brackets after they’re painted.

Air Dam

I wanted an air dam since the opening at the front of the Jaguar Series I is on the small size. Any extra air diverted to the radiator would be good as well as providing an element of front end down force.

I designed it in such a way that it would swing back and up, moving it out of harm’s way. It’s also adjustable in height.

Aluminum pieces cut, bent and welded:

Air dam in down position:

Up position:

View of bracketry and springs:

Thanks for looking.

Edited 6 time(s). Last edit at 06/01/2024 07:30AM by TR6-6SPD.

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