Triumph Sports Cars

Hi George,

I needed every bit of room for header clearance around the double steering joint. Talking about the lower one of the 2. The spark plug is right there also. Needed room just enough for changing them out. You may not need this joint because you are using a 302. The ls1 is wider. I found out one of our TR6 owners on this site (Ken Morris) used this same setup with his 350 chevy engine , so I figured it would work for me, which it did. I did need to relieve some inner fender for a little more clearance. I mocked up the steering shaft with wooden dowels before ordering parts with the engine mounted in.

[www.britishv8.org] Here is the information of Ken Morris's setup that was used on my steering setup. Mine is positioned with a little different angles, but works great for my setup.

I also looked at Dan Masters car for ideas....[www.britishv8.org], which had a 302, and Ken Hiebert's[www.britishv8.org] 350 setup.

Thanks Calvin. I knew there had to be a good reason.

George

It's been quiet here for a while. You out driving it? Is that why?

How did you know I've been driving around? :-)

"Yes" it has been around the block a few times. I couldn't resist anymore just driving in and out of the garage to work on it. It has very "SCARY HORSE POWER" in such a light car.

I have been playing around with Hp tuner software. Installed a wide band O2 sensor just passed the front narrow band O2 sensor on #2 bank side of engine. Need the wide band for wide open throttle tuning (WOT), for air fuel mixture. So have been tweaking the engine with a laptop instead of a screw driver.

The brake bleeding has been a chore! There is still some air in the lines somewhere, so need to pay close attention and get it all out for a firm pedal.

The reverse lockout solenoid has been bothering me because it sticks out so far. So I just did what Jon did to his setup(Jon www.ls1gt6.com). Cut it up and make just a plug out of it, so it works well without the casting and solenoid protruding way out from the transmission. I was just in the way of moving the seat forward for my wife to drive, it had to go.

Took off the little air cleaner, bought a large K&N cone air filter, (2) 4” rubber 90*, and some 4” aluminum tube, and extended to make a cold air intake. Needed to Weld in a bung into the 4” aluminum tube, for the Air intake temp sensor. The whole setup just fits in there with hood clearance.

Some photos.

The first 2 photo's are Jon's photo's [www.ls1gt6.com] 5th and 6th photo on his website.







These photo's below I took (they are a little fuzzy). This is the completed reverse lockout cap after being modified.



The piston work's the same way except the solenoid will lock the piston out so it can't be pushed in. It still has a very strong spring in there, that it would be very hard to get into reverse while driving. It's almost as hard as crashing thought the gate when the reverse lockout solenoid is ingauged.

Now I have alot more room for the drivers seat to move forward better.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2010 08:21PM by 74ls1tr6.

I made 2 cuts with a mini body saw. That took off the piston housing. I left a little meat thickness on there so that I could tig welded a thick cover over the piston bore without distortion. It all took about an 2 hours to do this setup.

Ken H you may want to do this sometime!



This solenoid is huge!



This photo (below) is the other end of the piston that was cut off and the sleeve retainer for the spring. I did cut off a little over a coil on the large spring. The small spring was still used to center the piston in the bore. So I drilled into the piston a small hole on the cut side that I made, then drilled a small hole into the cover cap. This way the small spring would be centered in the piston shaft and the cover cap. Took a C-clam and assembled together, then intalled the snap ring back in.



All 3 photo's above is what I didn't use.

The photo below is with the revese lockout cap installed. So I made a plate to cover this without any protrusion sticking out. I flatened the aluminum first. Now my seat moves back and forth real good.

Got my 240sx e-brake cables installed, and they work good. I'm going to install tubes so that the cables won't ware out at the bracket slots.



Was able to get this shifter knob on with a little reaming inside the knob to thread it on.



This is the new cold air intake setup with the Mass Air flow sensor intalled ,and Idle air temp sensor.



A different photo angle.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2010 01:02AM by 74ls1tr6.

It's tight but it fit's snug in there



Photo of the bung that needed to be tig welded in for the Idle Air Temp sensor.



This cold air intake will not get heat from the radiator now, like the little air cleaner right in front of radiator. The only thing I might be worried about is water getting in the air filter. It will also get a ton more air through the cone filter.

Calvin,
Things are looking really good.

Questions please:
Where is the shifter knob from?
Also, who's the supplier for the air intake parts, namely, the 90* bends, flex coupling and the 4" aluminum tube.

How does Brenda like driving it?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2010 07:09AM by TR6-6SPD.

Looking really good Calvin. You won't need to worry about water getting in the air cleaner. I ran a fully exposed intake for years and rain was never a problem.

JB

Hi Ken,

The shifter knob is for a Ford Mustang T56. Had to ream out alot of material inside the knob to make it fit on my short shifter. I found the knob on some website in Florida. It's Mustang site. [www.wheelsmustang.com]

The intake fittings, found this site...[www.intakehoses.com] I found everything here except the K&N filter. The filter was from Sumit Racing. The flex hose I think you are refering to is a reducing Hump hose from 3 1/2 " to 4" dia. So parts used ....

1) 3 1/2 X 4" reducer 90* (for connection to the throtle body/ Maf).
1) 3 1/2 X 4" hump hose reducer ( for connection incoming Maf sensor).
1) 7 1/2" 4" aluminum tube
1) 4" 90* Rubber
1) 2 1/2" X 4" aluminum tube(for filter connection).
5) 4" T-bolt clamps.
2) 3 1/2" t-bolt clamps.

Brenda has only rode around the block sitting on the passenger floor boards without a seat and so was I (LOL) holding on for dear life. It was a hoot. You know you are car nuts if both your wife and you do this. We are never to old!

Thank you JB,

That would be my only concern, and you just eased that out the window!

Nice!

Took off the original ls6 intake, and 78mm throtle body off the engine. When my wife and I went to Sema show, talked with Tony Mamo (AFR booth), and purchased one of his used ported Fast 90mm intake/90mm Nick Williams throtle body. So it all came in the mail, and I got it all installed the other day.

A photo of the new setup,and gained some hp with this setup. This engine is getting alot of air through it now.The intake will out flow a Fast 102mm intake. Tony really opened up this intake. The engine picks up faster and has better throtle response.




Today, have been working on the electric windows hardware. This was fairly easy to install. I hooked up a small battery to the wiring harness, and checked for clearance operation. The window goes up fast + down fast.

The window is down in this photo. Closely checked for anything that might bind.



Closer photo of how the system workes on the window crank shaft. I had to drill a small hole in the end of the shaft, + tap for a small screw to hold on the parts. The mounting brackets, drilled holes for screws with screw clips on the back side of the door.

The opening off to the right in the door, should have enough room to install the window switch in the door panel, and have clearance for the switch on the back side going into the door hole.





Did the same on the electric motor side for mounting.

Used a template( that came with the kit ) to draw the square hole on the panel, for the window switch, after measuring where is should go to fit the door. Used my small cut off wheel to cut the board, then used a sharp blade to cut for the corners. Pulled out the board, then used the sharp blade to cut the material on the back side. Drilled the small holes in the board for the scews. Pulled the wiring though the hole and screwed all four screws in to secure the switch panel in (There is 2 switches on the driver side , and one switch on the passenger side).



This is what the other side looks like with the switch panel installed.



A photo to give you the idea of the location on the panel.



Photo of the panel on the door. I will need to cut about a 1" hole where the window crank handle use to be ( You can see the window crank pushing on the material ), and there will be a black cap that will go over it.

You can see the contact strip with four buttons on it in the door jam, those will be used for the four wires for a passthrough for the door. So the electric window will work when the door is closed. I won't have to deal with wires breaking using the contact strip.

Still need to install the door pulls in the panel.

Had the center dash brace covered to match the lighter color. Will have two toggle switches, one on the left, one on the right. Then inbetween there will be four different indicator led lights that are very small. Rectangle hole is for the pop out screen, gps, sat, radio sound system. There will be 6 speakers in all.

You can't see but on the center section on the sides, close to the face, there is 3/4" holes on both sides for the seat heater switches. Also will have phone charger resepticles on both sides.



Some photo's of how the interior is coming along with speakers in the back panel.




The carpet is installed (Wool carpet) with the original underlay underneath.


You can see the aluminum sheel that was used behind the panel.

Calvin, on that window mechanism, would it be possible to install a window crank on it and still have manual operation?

JB

Jim,

The gearing in the motor wouldn't let it turn for manual opperation, unless you take off the connection on the window crank shaft, then put back on the window crank.

Now if the motor had a slip clutch when not in use, then it would be possible.

I see, thanks. I have long felt a dual mode mechanism shouldn't be hard to do but so far no manufacturer seems to have felt it desirable.

JB

beautiful job calvin.very impressive.

Thank You Gary!

Would like to see some build photo's of your Spitfire....a 347 stroker! "Nice"

there are some pics on mike reynolds spitfire thread."you guys are gonna love this spitfire" is the title.i have lots of new and have to start a thread of my own.lol i'll get to it soon i hope.nothing on the car is triumph except the shell.just the shell.not the steering column,or the frame or suspension,nor the wiring etc.it's a complete new build.want to be able to fix it anywhere anytime for a reasonable price without waiting at all for parts.EVERYTHING of importance is either ford or chevy or i fabricated it with easily attainable parts and materials.plus when i fab something i make it to last.lol here is a few pics for now to wet your whistle.







Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/08/2011 02:15AM by rampant racing.