Triumph Sports Cars

Calvin,

I talked with Ted today. He doesn't remember for sure, but he thinks he only used one container of each. Assuming 2.4 pounds for the pails, the residue/waste left over, and any over-spray, that's about 36 pounds total. Well worth it!

Dan,

Thanks for the info!

For an added 36 lbs, for good fire safety, sound control, and heat control..... I would agree....Well worth it!

My 74 TR6 caught on fire twice because of wiring problems, so Advanced Auto Wiring and Lizard Skin products is what I was looking for in my build.

In the end, I will weight the lizard skin pales, and post the results later.

Painted high build primer 3 in1 on the whole tub. Then applied Lizard Skin sound Control, and then Lizard Skin Ceramic heat control. I like the smell of this Lizard Skin, Maybe because I'm getting closer to having this ride on the road in the near future.

The skin was easy to spray, and left a nice texture finish. The inside of all the fenders + the tub took about 3/4 of both pales.
I still need to spray inside the doors. Tapping my fingers around the body tub where the Lizard skin is applied and where it is not applied, you can tell the difference in sound. This stuff is going to quiet down the passenger compartment pretty good.




I did spray underside panel where the gas fill is.



I will be able to take the transmission cover out just like the original setup. I won't need to take my dash and gauges out to remove it. Just need to take off shifter assembly, carpet, and dash brace out.



Just sprayed the firewall area with Lizard Skin, and the inner wings where the headers will be close too. The original holes that were welded up for the booster came out pretty well when the skin is sprayed over. It can hide those areas well.



Looking at different paints to use? I wonder what others are using for paint and what kind? There is alot to choose from? I did some pricing here and they want 3 to 4K with the paint supplies being 1k. I will save and spray myself. So 1k for supplies, thats just paint, hardners, thinners, and clear coat. Sand paper, taping supplies will cost too, and protect my lugs & eyes.

Here are the fenders. I had the get 3 new fenders because the original ones had seemed like 20lbs of bondo on them. Used my hand grinder with flapper disk, and found areas of over 1/2" deep of that lovely "BONDO".

So I'm sure I will need to message these new one's to fit correctly. Both Lizard skin products are sprayed on these fenders.

Sure going to be a nice one when you finish it up Calvin.

Calvin, curious why you sprayed the lizard skin before getting the fenders to fit right? seems like any work you do to make them right will cause rework.

Thanks Jim, I believe it will be an OK ride when I'm done. Trying to use what I have and keep costs down, but make it better.

Rob, That's a good question?

With a TR6 it's kind of like installing plumbing, you have to cut each piece and assemble it together before sweating it all together. With that being said when I restored My TR250 I had a shop strip all my fenders, spray on the undercoating, and prime the fenders. Installed all the fenders then did all the adjustments, then sprayed on the paint. It would make a better restore by painting the color on the fenders off the car, but very hard to not mess up the fender while installing back on. That my cause some rework that I don't want to deal with.

Since there is a body that is mounted on a frame, there are all kinds of adjustments to do with shimming just for the tub. So tub gets mounted loosely then the doors are next. The whole body is adjusted by how the doors align on the tub. At this point then the fenders get adjusted to the doors.

When I sprayed the Lizard skin, I did'nt spay the mating surfaces, so movement for adjustment won't cause rework for me.
I did mount the fenders before spraying Lizard skin to see where they fit, to get an idea of the fit, but it is on the rotisserie and not the frame.


I guess my word "message" meant to move fenders into place and bolt down semi tight then re-adjusted to get the gaps right. With a TR6 you have alot of adjustment space to work with. The new fenders don't fit as well as the one's that come off the car, but they do fit with more time consuming adjustment time.

Today, will be spraying primer on all the fenders. Will start to look at re-skinning one of my doors, for I have a nice tin can action going on in that door.

Calvin

Got it Calvin... when you said message I thought you were expecting to have to cut/weld tweak to get the gaps & ends to line up right.

Calvin, is Lizard skin anything like Rhino liner?

Is it just a rock guard or is it also a rust proofing?

Trip

Hi Trip,

The Rhino liner when sprayed on,is some pretty thick stuff and tuff.

Check out the website for Lizard skin if you already have or have not, but read about the technology that is in it. It is a real good product. As for rust proofing, I would use POR 15 primer then the POR 15 paint. After those have been applied, I went for the Lizard skin, because it isn't that thick on the car body panels, and the benefits are huge. The ceramic coating on lets say the inside of a metal roof panel,on a hot day, would drop 30 degrees lower than a roof panel that didn't have the coating. I don't think the Rhino liner would be capable of doing that. The sound control Lizard skin and ceramic Lizard skin coating act like a sealer also to protect from rust + you can paint it any color after.

Here is the link:[www.lizardskin.com]

Thanks for the explanation and for the link, Calvin.

"As for rust proofing, I would use POR 15 primer then the POR 15 paint. "

Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely be needing good rust proofing for when I eventually get the TR7 V8 project done. Considering what I've seen with my current TR7 and it's rust issues, super rust proofing is going to be at the top of the finishing list.

I had checked out the lizardskin site but it's way nicer to have your first-hand experience/opinion rather than any CO marketing claim... Especially since they all say their's is the best on the market.

Cheers, Calvin.

Trip

Started working on the passenger door. This door had a fairly good size dent under the lock down low. I tried to work it out with some body tools without good results. It had a tin can action going on from the metal being to streched. It was to hard to get tools in behind the door cross brace. So this door needed to be re-skined. This is the first time doing this for me, but doesn't look to hard to do.

Took a small angle grinder to the outside edge, all the way around just enough to see both sides of the fold in the medal. Took the small strip that was folded over and just pealed off. Where the window comes up through the door, use a dremel tool with small grinding wheel, cut the panel at the right distance, for the new panel to be installed. Took off the whole outer skin panel. This process took me about 20 minutes to do.



There is a few places around the door that have been brazed by the factory to hold the door from twisting.



Section that was streching beyond fixing for me anyway.



After grinding the edge and not going to far, keeping the shell of the door metal not ground down any. You can see the folded section came off just by grabing one end, and pulling it up.



Showing what a TR6 door looks like when the skin is off. After the skin was off took the shell and cleaned up in certain sections to prep for the new skin. Had to clip some corners on the new skin off, so that it would fit correctly, and have the right gap at the window opening.

Painted some POR 15 primer then black POR 15 paint on both sides of the lip that the door skin will be folded over. Left some sections not painted for tack welding the skin back on.

Tig welded the skin on both sides of the window opening to hold at the right place and right gap for the seals and window to work right. Started from the top of door with hammer and dolly. Tapped with hammer to start folding door skin over with the dolly on the other side. Made sure the door would fit in the skin at the bottom as work progressed. Tapped both sides then did the bottom last. Sanded the whole door down with 180 grit sand paper. Primed the whole door with high build primer.








First coat of primer sanded with 400 grit sand paper (wet sanded with Reverse Osmosis water which helps the sand paper from loading up, and the paper glides across the surface better). Door looks nice a straight now.



One of the bottom corners of the the door showing the corner fold.

Some more photo's showing the skin on and the door primed. Next this door will be sprayed with Lizard skin sound control + ceramic control after, on the inside of the door skin area. The factory used a square section of thick sound deading material, glued on the skin behind the cross brace. The sprayer for the Lizard skin has a 90 degree tip, so should be able to get in behind the cross brace ok.







Next 2 photos show the window opening.







I will install the snaps on the door after finish clear is done.

Calvin, I'm really impressed! Especially about the fact it only took you 20 minutes to get the whole outer skin panel off.

Nice work on the rest of the door too!

Trip

Thanks Trip for the kind words!

I'm pretty lucky the door wasn't rusted or it would have taken a lot longer to peal back the fold. For the first time re-skin it came out real good, it came out so good that I may attempt to do the other door, but the skins aren't cheap.

Now just need to make more time to keep moving ahead.

Calvin

You're welcome, Calvin.

Hey, if the fact that you were able to get the last bit done so efficiently is any indication, you're not going to need to make a lot of time to get the rest done. You will however, be needing to make time to be out cruisin' instead! LOL

Trip

I haven't posted in awhile , so here it goes.

Trip, I wish I was cruisin around right about now!

Re-worked the gas tank some more. Didn't want to use gas tank foam because of over time the foam breaking down and clog up the fuel system. So layed my gas tank on the side and drilled 1/2" holes in all four corners, took a jig saw, started at one corner and cut out the side of the tank. This aluminum gas tank is 80 thousands thick. Went down to my local metal vender and picked up a sheet of 80 thousands aluminum. I have a fuel sending unit float in the gas tank, that will swing up to be in the full position. The swing is towards the outside of the tank on left side. So on left side, installed a baffle close to the side wall about 3" in, 3/4's the height of the tank, and straight up. There is 3 of these baffles in the tank with holes drilled close to the bottom for fuel passage + pass on the sides, one on the left, one in the middle, one on the right. Installed one more baffle at a 45 degrees on the left side and under the swing arch of the fuel sending float.

Checked all clearances , then tig welded the baffles in. Tig welded the side back on, welded all four holes up, pressure tested the tank for leaks.

Now when going into a hard corner with some spirited driving, won't have all that weight of the gas hitting the side of the tank, possibly pushing the car into a spin. Also will help with fuel starvation with fuel injection. The 3 + one baffle at 45 degrees intalled in the tank will help with gas sloush too.

Have been spending alot of time on all the panels, doors, hoods, and body tub, spraying high build primer. I'm on the 3rd coat and block sanding by hand to get all surfaces flat. Using knock down paint to check for low and high points in the finish. Just about done with all the panels. Finish sanding with 600 grit sand paper. NOW! I know "WHY" car painters cost so much, very labor intensive work. A Paint job is as good as the primer prep, hours and hous of work.








Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/24/2009 08:40PM by 74ls1tr6.

Took a small hand held mini heater, applied hot air to both front inner fender shields, and removed all old undercoating (black tar on one side).
Used a 4" angle grinder with a paint stripper wheel, cleaned to bare metal both sides before panting black.




Cleaned up the e-brake handle with mini paint stripper wheel with air die grinder. Then painted black. Used the air die grinder, cleaned up both pins, ratchet gear plate, and bolts, to look new again. End results having a rebuilt e-brake assembly that looks good, even tho it will be covered up.



Replaced hand grip with a new one. Used the mini hand held heater blower to soften up the rubber grip which expanded the rubber a little, grip slid right on, when it cooled down it tighened up on the handle.



The holes here have been enlarged for the 240sx cable ends. On the 240sx cable has the same ends as a TR6, but the TR6 cables are a little smaller.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/01/2009 12:42AM by 74ls1tr6.

Yes have been working on all the small stuff, cleaning stripping and painting. This would be the steering column bracket at the firewall under the dash.




All these parts were stripped from yellow paint down to metal using 4" angle grinder with stripper wheel, what couldn't get with grinder, used sand blaster in a small box.

Door hinges (Need to find the other pair), Hood hinges, Rear deck lid hinges all primed with high build primer(2 coats). I used a detail gun with 1.0 tip to spray primer at 43 psi.



"Next" is the first time anyone and myself has seen the color I'm painting my ride with. It is called Atlantic Blue Pearl Coat (2004 Dodge Color). 2 coats of base on all the parts with a 15 minute flash using my detail gun again 1.0 tip, then 2 wet coats of clear with 15 minute flash inbetween. I like the looks of this blue, reminds me of a Cobra color.



I didn't even sand the primer to 600 grit finish like all my panels have, this finish looks OK. I'm "EXCITED" to move onto the rest of the car for this was testing the waters with base/clear setup.

I-Can-Do-This.