Bodywork, Paint, Interior, Trim, & Wiring

Hi everyone, I have started an MGB GTS "Sebring" project, which will have a Buick 300 engine. I might do the stroker version of the engine, so with that much power, having enough tire is important. I have, of course, seen the fiberglass Sebring kits, but I want to do mine in steel. I plan to use either Ford Escort Mk1 flares or possibly rear VW Golf Mk1 flares for the front, but still trying to figure out what to do about the back. I have reviewed Mark Burton's excellent videos on making the rear flares from scratch, but I'm wondering if there might be another easier way. I've looked at LOTS of bubble-shaped fenders (such as the rear fenders from different VW Bugs--the original one) and a variety of other ideas, such as using inner fender wells from late 60s/early 70s American cars. I don't mind cutting things up and piecing together--even the "from scratch" option does it in multiple pieces. Any ideas from anyone out there who may have done this, are thinking about it, or just have some thoughts I'd could run down? Many thanks in advance.

You might look at the Roadmaster.

Jim, thanks--are you suggesting something like a late 40s early 50s Buick Roadmaster?

MGB-Roadmaster. Similar to the rear of mine in the avatar.

Jim

Our group project car, the one & only MG Roadmaster.

Page 51 & 52 may give you some inspiration.

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Time to invest in a cheap Harbor Freight english wheel. Making things like flares is surprisingly easy.

Thanks Jim, I wasn't aware of that project. Nice work all the way around. I'm curious--did you just free hand the shape of the rear fenders or did you create some sort of pattern first? Did you use an English Wheel, as Todd mentioned?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/14/2022 10:52AM by Airwreckc.

Actually both. On my car I bent a piece of 1/2" conduit around an oil drum and welded that to the car for the lip, warped a sheet of sheet metal around it, welded and brazed it into place, beat it with hammers from the inside, and eventually ended up with it the way it is today. There is a difference from side to side of about an inch in the lip height but it's hard to see without a tape measure. I wasn't concerned because I basically saved the car from the crusher anyway. Today I'd be a little more meticulous.

On the RM I used a HF English wheel and formed the sheet metal using 1/4" steel rod for the lip. Terry's guys changed that to a sheet metal lip but left the shape pretty much as it was.

We used different approaches for the front. On mine I split the fenders lengthwise between the hood and headlight and added a wedge creating a wasp waist effect. The bumper had to be widened also. On the RM we traded for fiberglass fenders (In retrospect not the best decision) and then glassed Sebring flares on, trimming away what we didn't need.

Jim

Jim, thanks, good to know.

"I wasn't aware of that project." Well, we must remedy that!

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I know you want steel, but I did my MGB flares in fiberglass. Made a rough shape by welding those thin steel rods that hold up insulation in between the rafters. Had a box of 24" ones laying around, so I used those. Then I spray foamed and sanded until I had the shape I wanted, coated with fiberglass and bondo, sanded again, and painted it. Several coats of release wax, and I was ready to pull some fenders. Got a couple from each side before the bondo was junk. I used a parts car for this work before it was hauled off. When I installed the rears on the car, I boxed in the trunk with sheet metal. Once the fender was glassed in, I layer more glass on it. The rears are very thick and I would consider them structural at this point. Took the idea of making them really thick from what the TVR 280i had for body panels. You literally can grab the rear fender lips and pick up the rear end of the MGB. I was happy with the way they came out. On the front I bought a pair of cheap repro fiberglass fenders and then cut away/bonded on flares. Just as I was finished and ready to paint the car, I found a pair of used flared fenders at a swap meet. Numbers, sponsors, and SCCA club racing stickers still on them. Perfect shape for $20. Those are now garage art in case I ever need them. The fronts I made are on the car and are easy to remove. But yeah, metal is cooler. Thats why I went with all metal on my LS3 powered TR8.

What a great project :) I wouldn't have believed that engine would fit--but then again, I saw someone planning to put a Viper V10 in one. Lots of great information, too. Makes my "little" Buick 300 seem pretty mild.

Thanks Todd, you've given me an idea about how to make forms. How far apart did you place the steel rods so the spray foam would "grab"? What I am thinking is to make some male forms from foam and then create a female from concrete than I can beat form the steel into. Mark Burton described the concrete form idea in his YouTube video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GC1lRHV5lO8)--the difference is he started with fiberglass Sebring fenders as the male and I don't want to buy a set just to make a mold, so I want to mock up something in foam, which I figure I'll then skim coat with plaster and coat with wax.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/15/2022 10:27AM by Airwreckc.

If you are going to go with fiberglass I'd highly recommend that you look into West Systems G-Flex epoxy resin/adhesive. If you mix some microbeads with it it also makes an excellent filler. We used that on the RM's front flares and it's been flawless. Also used on Matt's little vette boo boo from Wytheville. Easy to work with and very strong.

Jim

I did not use all that many rods. Mostly just wanted the wheel opening and a few more to hold the shape. I layered the foam in a little at a time so it would not slump. Spray some. Let it set up. Spray some more. Once there was more than enough, I went back in with a serrated knife, and course sand paper. Got the shape quickly, but had to go back and fill in some voids with more foam, more sanding. I did it on a warm weekend day as I was working on other stuff around the garage. The next day I went back in and layed a coat of fiberglass over it. Took several more days to get them ready to pull a fender from them. The fenders were easy compared to the rear bumper fiberglass piece that rolls under. That one was so much work that I actually made a mold that I still have. Can pull more rear valances if I ever want to. Since then I have made/gathered molds for TR7 fiberglass bumpers, hoods, and front Huffaker style 2 piece air dams. Have you considered making bucks out of wood and then hammering the sheetmetal over those? Just need a rough shape and then smooth it out with the English Wheel.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/16/2022 07:21AM by tr8todd.

Or, you can step up & make some really sweet steel flares, like Ken.

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Wow Carl, Ken did an amazing job. I'm constantly amazed by the work done on this site.

Todd, yes I'm also considering making some wood bucks and then using an English wheel. Seems like I probably will have other uses for the wheel anyway. There are definitely lots of options.

Reviving an old thread, but someone out there might appreciate the concrete option:

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Wow.