Project Journals

Here is a link to "Part 1" of the project:
[forum.britishv8.org]

Here is a link to "Part 2" of the project:
[forum.britishv8.org]

Here is a link to "Part 3" of the project:
[forum.britishv8.org]

Here is a link to "Part 4" of the project:
[forum.britishv8.org]

Here is a link to "Part 5" of the project:
[forum.britishv8.org]

Here is a link to "Part 6" of the project:
[forum.britishv8.org]

Here is a link to "Part 7" of the project:
[forum.britishv8.org]

Here is a link to "Part 8" of the project:
[forum.britishv8.org]


Please note: The photos in this thread are displayed at 600x450 pixels. If you see a little box-in-a-box logo in the upper right hand corner of the photo, click anywhere on the photo to blow it up to full size - in a new window. This new window can then be maximized for a still larger image.

Interior Panels

Even though the interior of a car is installed after the body work and paint is finished, I wanted to do as much prep work for this as possible. I had some of the original interior panels from the car but they were all in pitiful condition. Besides, with all the changes I’ve done, I would need to fabricate my own anyway. I’m using 1/8” ABS plastic and Au-ve-co trim fasteners.

I had to do some cutting and welding before making the door panel. Previously, I had planned on fabricating my own arm rests, working around the protruding power window motor. I abandoned that plan, set the motor 3/8” into the door framework so it sat flush and I could use the original style E-type arm rest.

The easiest way to fabricate door panel is to tape a sheet of heavy duty clear plastic to the door frame and mark the cutouts and existing mounting holes. You then transfer that to the ABS plastic sheet that has masking tape applied to it, trace the cutouts and center punch the holes. A jig saw does quick work of the plastic. Photos in collage:

Previous to cutting door frame for motor
After cutting
Clear plastic on door frame
Door panel cut


The E-type door panel has a couple of bends in it. I found the safest way to make an accurate bend is to clamp one side to the table and cover the other side, top and bottom, with plate aluminum, leaving only about a 1” strip of ABS exposed. Warm this with a heat gun and you can control where your bend with be.
Bending ABS:


Collection of panels fabricated:


Door panel mounted including release handle, power window switch, speaker, courtesy lamp and arm rest:


Back to the Boot

I had a couple of things to do in the boot to make it more liveable and now was the time to construct.

The first was to make a divider, separating the fuel tank from the spare tire area. Since I had no plans to ever carry a spare tire, this would now be the “trunk”. A divider would help contain things.

Fabricated from 1/16” aluminum:


Installed:


The other thing I wanted to do, was to provide a hinged hatch to access this trunk area using quick release latches.

Panel hinged and latched:


Quick release latch:




Opened and propped with rod:


Stainless Steel Trim

Jaguar had metal trim on the door panels and what could be called luggage runners in the boot. I received none of these when I got this car. I’ll have to make my own.

I choose 3/8” dia., 0.049 wall, 304 stainless tubing. With a zip saw, I cut it in half, then welded a trimmed 6/32 nut to the inside for mounting purposes. The upper pieces on the door panel had to be mitered to create an angle. Other pieces required a slight bend to follow the panel shape.

To split the tube, I clamped one end in a table vise and secured the other end to the table. Following the marked masking tape, the saw cut went quickly.

Cut setup:


Resulting cut:


6/32 nut tacked in place:


End cap welded and polished:


Luggage runners polished and ready for installation:


Finished:


The whole job was quite time consuming. The zip cut and welding would distort the thin wall tube and the tack would create a raised section. All that would require a file for leveling and various grades of sandpaper and buffing to gain the look of chrome. A job I wouldn’t want to do full time…

Third Brake Light

A third brake light is always a good idea. I acquired one that doubled with directional lights.

The first job was to fabricate a housing to put it in and add tabs for mounting. The rear hatch door sits at 23 degrees off level in the car, so I set it up on the bench at that angle, then leveled the housing for the light.

Lamp, housing and mounted:


Housing fastened to stand offs, welded to hatch door:


Engine Intake Cover

My original plan was to fabricate a cover to hide the injectors and fuel rail of the engine. Next I would prep and paint the intake manifold. After going through a couple of designs, I decided to go the whole hog and cover it all. I considered using 1/16” aluminum but with all the welds, I decided 20 ga. steel would be within my capabilities. The weight difference calculated to be 1.8 lbs.
Clearance from the top right corner of the cover to the underside of the bonnet turned out to be 3/8”. Tight fit.

Started with a CAD design, then transferred to the metal:


I added two S.S. rails to the sides of the cover:


At the same time, I removed the standoff mounts on the valve covers.

Done:




Bonnet to Radiator Seal

The space between the top of the radiator and the bottom side of the bonnet is not overly large, but I thought I should at least make an effort into sealing it off. The sheet metal section splits between left and right and are adjustable up and down.


I’ll attach the closed cell foam to the brackets after they’re painted.


Air Dam

I wanted an air dam since the opening at the front of the Jaguar Series I is on the small size. Any extra air diverted to the radiator would be good as well as providing an element of front end down force.

I designed it in such a way that it would swing back and up, moving it out of harm’s way. It’s also adjustable in height.

Aluminum pieces cut, bent and welded:


Air dam in down position:


Up position:


View of bracketry and springs:


Transmission Tunnel Trim

Looking ahead to upholstery time, I wanted to cover the top hail of the transmission tunnel with vinyl and the bottom half with carpet.

To divide the two, I split some more stainless tubing and formed it to the tunnel.

Both side mounted:




Again, I welded 6/32 nuts to the inside of the tubing so I could secure a 6/32 thread and use nuts on the inside of the tunnel.


Installing Floor Pans

I originally fabricated the floor pans a very long time ago, namely 10 years. Unbelievable.
I left them out so I could comfortably do interior work standing up. Having finished everything on that list, it was time to do the installation.

My dearest helper assisting with the original fabrication:


Both sections went in smoothly, 32 plug welds per side:




Mounting Seat Belt Retractors

I had originally planned on mounting the Mazda Miata seat belt retractors at floor level behind the Miata seats. But after finally setting the seats in place, I realized they would push the seats 3-4 inches forward, unacceptable in such a small car. Mounting the retractors high behind the seat was the only option.

The first job was to weld tabs to the retractor so I could mount it securely.

Threaded holes top and back side:


I then fabricated sheet metal boxing to contain the retractor:




On the roll bar, I trimmed 5 different 16 gauge sections of sheet metal to create a base to bolt the retractor to:




Retractor mounted:


Seat Belt Guides

The original seat belt guides that came with the Miata seats cause too much drag, in my opinion.

I welded up a pair with the width I needed and utilizing stainless steel rollers.

Retractor ready:


Guides fabricated:


And installed:




Seat snuggly in place:


Tear Down

Having worked through many To Do lists, I finally arrived at BODY WORK.

I ran the engine up one more time, did a compression test, all 8 spark plugs looked good so I gave it a bill of good health.

Before tear down:


Engine being yarded out:


With the engine removed, I could metal finish the firewall and attend to a few other details that I couldn’t with it in place.

Bare steel:


Stripping paint

There wasn’t a lot of paint left on the body of this car after so many panels had been replaced. The roof was on the list though.

The whole car had 13 layers of paint on it:


I started at the rear section of the roof:


The top layer came off the easiest:




Here’s a link to my video of the paint stripper in action:
[youtu.be]

Roof Repair

I knew the roof wasn’t perfect. All the defects were reveled after I removed the paint, applied some guide coat and block sanded it with a long board.

I suspect the roof was sat upon at some point because I had four creases, one in each corner.

These were repaired using my shrinking disc, applying heat then cooling with a wet rag.


Epoxy Primer and Body Filler

With the metal work finished, (I hope) it’s on to body work.

First step was to put the car in epoxy primer. I’m using the RM EP 369, the same product that the bonnet was covered in some time ago.

Body filler choice is Evercoat Rage and Rage Ultra. I’m using a triple beam balance to accurately measure my filler to hardener 2% ratio. I’ve been getting some great body work tutorials on YouTube from Sylvesters Customs channel.

My first area to work on was the underside of the bonnet, probably the most difficult spot. Hard to reach, concave curve. The underside of the front pan was much easier.

Epoxy, mud mixing, first filler:


Thanks for looking,
Ken



Edited 15 time(s). Last edit at 04/14/2025 10:14AM by TR6-6SPD.