Triumph Sports Cars

What are you doing for an air intake? I'm guessing (although I might be wrong) that you aren't leaving it like that.
Going round to a headlight bucket or over the top of the rad?

CONGRATS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I know you'll hate to pull her out after just getting her running, but be strong. The fruits of your labor are just around the corner after the spray job.

Very nice!!!!!!!!!!

Alan,

That air cleaner is my intake for now! After the car is on the road for a while I will see if it needs colder air or not. At that time I will make something different, or bring cold air to it.

The air cleaner has the MAF (Mass Air Flow) plate in there all in one from Speed and Performance.

Don,

Thank you for the pat on the back (congrats). It has been a long haul and waiting to hear was very fun. Today I started it up and let it run to operating temp. It sure sounds healthy running and smooth. I cracked the throttle open for a quick blast, lots of torque and quick on the rpm’s with the aluminum fly wheel. I believe there will be some light throttle in 1st and 2nd gears for sure or it will be all over the place.
I installed another bung on the bottom of the radiator for a pet cock for drain down valve. I installed an overflow bottle that has a drain down valve.

Hey, I wasn't picking spots. That's a nice job you've done there.
Can't wait to see it in the flesh...

Alan,

An update on the TR250?

Calvin,
Alan will give you his own update, but in the meantime, here's a couple of threads from 6-Pack:
(start half way through page 3) [www.6-pack.org]

(thoughts on color choice)
[www.6-pack.org]

Ken

Thanks Ken for the update with Alans build.

Alan, here is some comparison photo’s for engine placement. Your builder must be trying to line up the gear shift knob with the original shift hole dimension, and maybe use the 4.100 shifter handle to achieve your stock location. Piston # 1 will be close tolerance for header / steering shaft, but your builder may be changing all that anyway.
Just something I noticed between the two setups.

Your number #8 coil is where my #6 coil is. Interesting! I'm sure this is trial fit?



Number 8# coil wire close to foot well box!. Also there is the aluminum pass through blocks for ac lines and heater lines. Tig welded an aluminum bracket to hold the PCM on the underside of this footwell box. So that was one of the main reasons to un-pin the computer blocks. This way I don't need a large hole to push the wires through the firewall.



Found these Corvette covers that were moded for the Camaro setup LS1.



You can't see in these photo's, but I will use the original battery location using an Odyssey racing battery. It is 3 1/2" width out from the firewall, and 9" wide.

Well actually my frame and suspension's going to be all custom, so the issues are slightly different. My engine's about 3" further forward than yours - #1 cylinder is about an inch back from the centerline of the front suspension. The vette hubs allow my rack to be forward of the TR rack so clearance isn't such a problem, and the front runner setup pulls everything in at the front. The tightest part is around the headers - there may be a little trimming required there. Those things are huge!

Anyway, sorry for the hijack.

No highjacking considered on my end here Alan, enjoy tallking about the hobby.

The Hooker block hugger headers is what I used. They use 1 5/8" mandrel bent and of equal lenght primaries. Will give you lots of torque at low end. They fit very well, just needed to extend the passanger side flange down to pass my motor mount. It will pass good clearance by the starter and motor mount.

Anyway keep us updated over here on your build.

I have Kooks - from a C5. X-pipe and cats from the same. I figured I'd do my bit for the environment. They look like this



The picture's cropped heavily because the frame's not finished, but it'll suffice to get the idea at least.


I decided to make it a rally clone in tribute to the TR4s that did the Shell 4000. There's one here that's visually similar - [7vc.co.uk] - but I'm having two fogs as well as two driving lamps on the front bar (and deleting the third headlight). Mine's going to be wedgewood instead of powder blue (period correct, a bit darker with a touch more grey).

There's a really cool feature on here that you might like to consider. If you look at the engine bay, you can see the mount for the DZU fasteners that it uses to hold the hood down. That I'm stealing for sure...



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/26/2009 10:48PM by alana.

Alan,

Those headers look like long tube headers. Long tube make some good power from what everyone has told me and what I've read.

That hood setup with DZU fasteners "Very Nice". Great ideas!

Happy 4th of July everyone for 2009 and stay safe!

I have a second start-up video from behind the car with my terrible sounding shoes!

[www.youtube.com] Enjoy! I did.

I'm starting to get twitchy.
Haven't had a fix - I mean update - for a few weeks.
Surely you've done something other than drive it ;)

Have been very busy lately. Moving business from a 2300sq ft building to a 3800sq ft building. Went on Shasta lake with the jet skies, boat and fishing last week. So after hearing the engine run OK, checking for clearance in the engine bay, took everything out that weekend , and started body tub prep.

OK to undo the twitchies, here is some food for thought. My old 1980 some rims looked pretty*&^%$^%# up. So unbolted the front set and started to see if i could clean them up some.

When they made these rims they sprayed some kind of protection coating on them. Well over the years the coating yellowed and turned dark, which you would think they are throw away rims at this point.

I used Chem tool and Laquer (SP) thinner to wipe off the coating. Then proceeded to use a combination of buffing wheels, buffing paste, wire wheel (on the cast section), and Flitz buffing compound. Used my drill at 2400 RPM and went to town on the aluminum rims.




The before and after photos.


These are 15X7 rims with 245-60-15 tires. These rim's were made for a TR6 with the right offset so that the upper control arms have a clearance of 1/2" from the rim. I don't know who made them. I bought these rims when I restored my TR250 and they worked well. I will burn these tires off first before replacing them with BFGs later or go to a larger rim for brake upgrade.


The spokes were a gold color. I will paint them maybe the same color as the car. I will need to find some center caps for them. I do have some adapters too metric 4-100mm that can open up to a lot of different rims. Could run later Mini Cooper rims that run up to 18" maybe.

Back side of rim.



Worked on the engine bay smoothing some areas. Need to weld up original brake booster holes. Did weld up the hole for the original heater core piping that goes through the firewall. The AC pump is a little lower than the alternator, so the passenger side inner fender is a little lower. The driver side needed more smoothing because of warping from Mig welding. The passenger side didn't warp at all with Tig welding.



Photo is a little dark, but stripped paint down to the metal. Some smoothing needs to be done in this area. I might suck the muffler tips into the lower area a little instead of having them stick out.



Both side of door sills were stripped to metal, only one ding to smooth in the rocker panel. The whole body tub has been seam sealed. Both front and back outer fender wells have been seam sealed and primed. Used POR 15 primer and POR 15 black paint inside the passenger compartment + trunk modded area.

Inside firewall seam sealed. Original heater hole covered with aluminum plate. Heater pass through welded up and seam sealed.



Ooops, shouldn't have painting the booster area, will grind off paint and weld up original booster holes which are the slotted holes to the right.



Next two photo's of passenger(correction Driver side) side outer fender well's primed for Lizard skin sound control and ceramic coating after that.



The Lizard skin will be sprayed on both sides of the pan, firewall inside and out, inside doors, Trans cover inside and out, inside fenders, outer fender wells, and trunk area inside and out. This will help the AC + heat from headers and sound control. I will be able to hear my stereo maybe.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/04/2009 12:29AM by 74ls1tr6.

These are some of the products I have been using.

I have used 3 of these tubes of seam sealer. Pricey, but good stuff.


Por !5 stuff for rust prevention.



Ceramic insulation!



Sound Control. Note Sound control needs to be sprayed first before Ceramic coating. If anyone is going to spray this stuff, get the sprayer kit for it.



Now just need some more time to get going on this.

Calvin,

If you get a chance, please weigh those containers of Lizard Skin before you apply it. I searched the web for weight info with no luck. My car was sprayed with both products, but I didn't get a chance to weigh the stuff to see how much it added to the overall weight.

As for sound proofing and heat proofing, it works. I'm glad I have it.

Hi Dan,

I did read that you used the Lizardskin products on you GT. When I was at the speed shop where I purchased it, the guy at the counter brought out a deep electric frying pan. He had painted the ceramic coating on one half side of the frying pan that was not that thick. He then proceeded to plug in the frying pan with an ice cube on the un-coated side and the coated side. So of course the ice melted fast on the un-coated side. The side that was coated didn't even melt. I was able to put my finger down inside on the bottom of pan and could barely feel any heat, the heat was coming from the other side. So I was sold on the product as a NO brainer.

I did figure that it would add some weight to our cars, but all that tar that came off had some weight to it also. In case of a fire all that tar would make the car go up in flames where as the Lizardskin would help out with a blaze.

So I will weight both 2 gallon buckets and post back the results of each one.

Dan, how much sound control and ceramic did you have to use on your GT?

As for the weight of the pale, don't know until it is sprayed and cleaned out for weight. I will do that in the end.

OK , the sound control weighted in at 26.6 lbs per 2 gallon pale. Spraying on at least .020" thick or 20 mills

One gallon covers 50 sq ft @ .020"



The ceramic insulation weighted in at 11.8 lbs per 2 gallon pale. Spraying on at .040" thick or 40 mills
One gallon covers 20 to 35 sq ft @ .40"



A little math could get the weight pretty close for the whole car!

Calvin,

Thanks for the info! I'll have to check with Ted and see how many containers he used. I'll let you know when I find out.